Using 630cc Siemens injector, TT225 maf housing, pushing 20 psi with Unitronic 630cc Bturbo pgm.

Well im debating on a couple things and I would like your imput on these questions :

1- I would go with the black fmic because of the sleeper aspect but the second one seems to have more R&D involved and maybe more cooling :

A- http://exaltmotorsports.com/i-910057...6-audi-a4.html

B- http://exaltmotorsports.com/i-157254...tercooler.html

If you have a better fmic to recommend im all ears!

2- I was thinking of keeping my intake stock with a K&N filter, with in mind the fact that the 4.2l uses a similar intake I dont see why I would need bigger. What are your thoughts?

3- Test pipe or High flow cat? I was thinking of going high flow cat from 034 and ask them for a third bung for a wideband.

TY for your help!

 

The best advice that I can offer to someone looking to get into serious mod'ing is to have a clear goal in mind, and don't take half measures. The vast majority of mod'ers spend three times what they need to because they move 'up' incrementally, rather than just buying what they should have from the start.

I'd personally skip the Eliminator setup – it's got a restrictive hot side that chokes your flow considerably. A proper GT2871 setup will make a fair bit more power, and with lower EGT at the turbo since there's less restriction. Of course, a proper setup will cost a bit more. I think the GT2871 is a perfect match for a stock displacement/compression ratio 1.8T, but you really need to ditch the Eliminator setup. I'd go with Pag-Parts because of their build quality, Arnold's 1.8T knowledge, and because it's a bottom-mount turbo setup.

1.) Size your core and piping according to what your final goals with your car are. If you don't have much experience with core sizing, forums are a great resource since you gain the benefit of the trial and error of hundreds, or thousands, of mod'ers.

2.) I'm not going to say that an intake does nothing, because that's not necessarily true, but there's going to be minimal gains on setups flowing <25lbs/min. Despite the common misconception in the VAG tuning scene that an intake isn't capable of any gains, a properly designed velocity stack and filter will yield substantial gains on an otherwise optimized setup. If you're running a GT30 at 28PSI, and have a larger intake manifold and throttle body, you can pick up some good gains with a V-stack.

3.) Your call. Obviously, catless is going make more power; albeit, minimally more than a good HFC. That said, with the Eliminator setup, I doubt that there will be any difference between cat-less and HFC since your exhaust flange is going to be your choking point. Does the smell/noise/environmental concern of a cat-less exhaust bother you?

Also: Not trying to be a jerk here, but can your car handle the extra power? Running 300-400HP on an A4 with stock suspension, tires, and braking is my idea of a pointless exercise.

 

Thx a lot for your imput Cheeba!

The reason I went with the Eliminator setup is because I bought it used from someone that ran it for 2000km then blew a rod out of the block. (26psi on stock rods) I offered 1k for the turbo, 630cc injectors, aluminum lighweight flywheel, RS4 clutch/pressure plate, Ford Lighting Maf housing, filter, maf sensor, statis motor mount and a pilot bearing I wont use.

1- The reason I choose these two intercoolers is because they were optimized for Gt28 series and they didnt need any modifications. I have to admit they dont even mention piping size... As mentionned before, if you have a suggestion for a fmic/piping size, im all ears. Ideally one that bolts on if possible.

2- Im not thinking about pushing more then 20 psi and Dom from Unitronic will limit my setup to 300whp untill I upgrade rods this summer. When rods will be installed I will still push 20psi but he will tune to max capacity.

3- A friend of mine is running the same setup and from the smell he gets im probably going to use an hfc.

Dont worry your not being a jerk lol Im running brand new zimmermans on 4 corners with TRW pads. Will probably go with 3.0 Brake upgrade or Stage 2V2 from ECS this summer. Suspension wise im on H&R springs, RS4 22mm rear sway bar and upgrading shocks this summer.

The reason a lot of the work will be done this summer is because I have to sell my S2000 for the budget.

 

Haha, well for that price I can see why you went Eliminator! A custom setup with a higher-flowing mani would cost you many times that when it's all said and done. Good score!

I would never install that kit without at least rods, though. I know everyone likes to tout the 300HP as the magical number that stock rods are good for, but there are so many variables at play here. People have windowed blocks on K04s, so you should understand the risks of any turbo upgrade on a non-built engine. IMO, rods are requisite for any turbo upgrade on the 1.8T, and they're pretty damn cheap and easy to install. I'd also do at least exhaust valves and pistons, but that increases your cost by a lot, and is not absolutely required if you run a mild tune/hardware.

 

Yup for 1000$ im happy. No suggestion for the fmic?

Im crossing fingers for the 300wp magical figure

Incoming purchases:

FMIC (Now)
HFC (Now)
Timing belt/Water pump kit form ECS (Now)
BBK Stage 2V2 (Summer)
Rods (Summer)
Struts (Summer)

 

Don't forget tires Racers and engineers know that they're the most important performance mod to any vehicle, yet they're completely overlooked by most mod'ers.

I have no idea what the A4 guys are using for FMICs these days; just do some searches on Vortex. I'd consider going a bit larger than you need for the GT28, just for when you inevitably want to upgrade the turbo. FWIW, I use a custom setup with 2.5" aluminum piping on a Treadstone core.

 

Thx mate!

Im going bigger then I need on the FMIC

Also im running brand new 235/40/18 with 340TW Ultraload Flaken 912 on 8.5 BBS LM replicas. But im either going do put the real LM's I have on my S2000 with wobble bolts or going to go back to 235/45/17 on oem wheels.

 

still have the s2k for sale?

 

PM'd

Yes the S2K is still for sale but its stored for the winter.

2002 (Best year, because AP1 but all problem form 00-01 solved and solid rear glass window with defrost)
Sebring Silver on full red interior (Rare and only available in 2002 and 200
98000KM
Selex Coilover Damper/Height adjustable (Installed)
Tein Springs on oem struts ans oem springs
Spoon Strut bar
Spoon Air Intake
Spoon Radiator cap
Spoon Reservoir cap
Spoon Air filter
Spoon Shift ****
Oem style front lip
BBS LM Wheels on Direzza SSpec (Package worth 4800$)
Oem wheels
35% All around tint

On the Tein springs and oem shocks (Sits lower now on coilover):



Can price with our without the BBS

Chris

 

go black FMIC if you can. Sleeper FTW.