What to look for? 2001 to 2004 TT Quattro

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Old 04-11-2013 | 07:25 PM
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Default What to look for? 2001 to 2004 TT Quattro

I am in the market for a 2001 or newer TT Quattro What should I be looking for? I have driven a few of them and they seem tight rattle free and sporty. I know this is not a rocket ship but where do these fail? What happens at what mileage such as Timing chains, leaks, rust. Etc. thanks guys. Can't wait to be an owner
Old 04-12-2013 | 03:40 PM
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Default Re: What to look for? 2001 to 2004 TT Quattro

My brother has a 2004 TT Quattro 225hp manual transmission. I tried it many times and love the car. His car is chipped and is defenately more than sporty. I would suggest to look for a 225hp quattro and have it chipped.

As far as reliability is concerned, my brother has a little over 100K and no problems with the car.

I would suggest to use good oil syntethic like Mobile 1 0W40 and change it often (8K). Also change your differential oil. You should be good.
Old 05-29-2013 | 03:12 PM
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Default Re: What to look for? 2001 to 2004 TT Quattro

Audi constantly improved bits and pieces of the TT almost every year. So buy the newest one you can find. Stick to the 225, and make sure it has had its timing chain/water pump changed.
Old 03-29-2017 | 11:24 PM
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Default Re: What to look for? 2001 to 2004 TT Quattro

If it's over 100 - 120 km make sure to check the timing belt and ask if it's been done. If they say yes, ask if the tensioner and water pump impeller were changed. The water pump is a pretty evil part if it's not changed as they are known to break up inside in OEM form and break over time thus circulating bits of plastic throughout the engine. It will make a simple timing belt job turn into an engine swap very quickly if it has not been taken care of. Also, if you do need to do the timing belt job because it hasn't been done, make sure to install a water pump with a metal impeller. It is an upgrade from the OEM and there are a number of kits you can get out there so keep an eye out for it.

Door latches and switches like to go on these things all the time as well (who would of thought a german car would have electrical issues! lol) so check to make sure the automatic window features are working when the doors open and close. If the switches are wonky, they are around 300 a piece to replace so this gives you some negotiating room if you find the car has this issue. Also make sure to check that all the switches work properly (trunk latch, gas latch etc.) the small bits on this car will surprise you and your wallet when it comes time to replace them.

Rear control arms are usually a very common upgrade for most of us as well. The oem once are garbage and most squeaking will come from the worn out bushings on them. When you take the car for a test drive, make sure to listen if the rear is creaking and squeaking. It's not a huge deal but something to keep in mind as new upgraded control arms with poly bushings will run you about 900 bucks (imported from the states).

n75 valve usually goes after 100k as well which can cause performance issues with the turbo. You will know if its glitchy when you accelerate and the turbo feels like it just cuts out after 3000 - 3500k causing a sudden braking feel. Not an expensive part but something to bare in mind.

Ask when the Haldex service was done as well as fluid changes in the entire system. These cars, like any, require a decent amount of care to be run in top notch condition. I would say a little more than most just because it's a german performance vehicle. You can get away with not changing the oils and fluids in a honda for a long time but on a car like the TT it can cause a lot of trouble for you and parts are not exactly cheap for this thing. If the person who is selling the car doesn't sound like he knows what he is talking about, or can confidently address the servicing of the car, I would advise you keep looking. Owners of these vehicles are usually very meticulous as they understand the importance of preventative maintenance, but there are guys out there who will never understand this.

Other then that the 1.8T is a pretty solid motor if it was taken care of and highly desirable if you are looking to modify for high power gains. A stage one will bump you in and around 260hp and 250 ft/lbs of torque. I can't comment on the VR6 but I would advise you to stay away. Gen 1 DSG is not really desirable and most of them are probably in need of a very expensive service. If the DSG goes on you as well in the near future, you will need to sell your car to afford a new one. You can never go wrong with a manual

Oh and avoid the wimpy 180 model as well. You will know it is a 180 by the single exhaust tip. the 225 has the bigger KO4 turbo and dual exhaust tips.

Last edited by recaro19; 03-29-2017 at 11:34 PM.
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