what to avoid?

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Old 07-29-2008 | 01:09 PM
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Default what to avoid?

can someone please tell me what are the good years/models of the TT to buy used, and which ones to avoid?
thanks.
kris
Old 08-05-2008 | 06:37 PM
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Default Re: what to avoid?

Originally Posted by kris66
can someone please tell me what are the good years/models of the TT to buy used, and which ones to avoid?
thanks.
kris
I've never heard of any paticular years to totally avoid, but before I bought my TT I did a lot of reading on Audi sites and got the impression that TT's might be a little less reliable overall in the earlier years. I went for a 2003 TT figuring most of the main bugs had been worked out by then. I might be off base here, just my impression, mine has been very reliable in the short time I've had it.
Old 08-05-2008 | 10:23 PM
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Default Re: what to avoid?

actually 00' is the most reliable. 02~and up had many problems which 00 did not suffer from.

Also, it came out at 98 in europe, just north america didnt get it untill 00
Old 08-05-2008 | 11:25 PM
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Default Re: what to avoid?

Thanks guys for taking the time to reply..
Old 08-06-2008 | 12:39 PM
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Default Re: what to avoid?

Originally Posted by mpower1226
actually 00' is the most reliable. 02~and up had many problems which 00 did not suffer from.

Also, it came out at 98 in europe, just north america didnt get it untill 00
I've never read that the 00 is the most reliable, but it was only available as a 180hp engine at that time I believe so maybe that helped. For general info, I've copied from VWvortex in the Mk1 AudiTT FAQ segment general info on buying a TT, as this forum has some good info to look at:

BUYING A TT

There are a few things one needs to look for when buying a mk1 TT. The most important thing is to check as to whether or not the timing belt has been replaced. The factory service interval is stated as being 100,000 miles, but it is well-known that the 1.8T's timing belt is THE major weak point of the engine, and that it should be changed by about 60,000 miles. If you are looking into buying a TT with under 60,000 miles, you should be aware that you should definetly change out the belt by the recommended 60,000 mile mark; if you are buying a higher-mileage TT, make sure it has either been replaced or that you don't mind taking on that responsibility. The two ways to take care of the timing belt is to take it to a dealership, in which you will pay dealer prices and service rates for convenience, or to pick up a timing belt kit from one of the several companies that make replacements. ECS is the preferred company, as they provide a complete kit for this swap, which includes a water pump with a metal impeller (to replace the earlier OEM plastic one), and you have the option of either a lightened or under-driven crank pulley. The reason replacing the timing belt is so important is because if the belt fails, engine destruction will almost surely be the result. If you happen to be covered under warranty, you may choose to not worry about this issue, because if the belt does fail, Audi will have to provide you with a new engine. That being said, there are fewer and fewer Mk1's under warranty, so be smart about your car. It will cost about $300 DIY or $900 at a shop, but in either case its cheaper than a new engine.

Aside from the major timing belt issue, the TT has a few other little problems. The instrument clusters are known for being buggy, and may either have problems or fail, in which case you will need a rebuild or a new cluster. The glovebox latch is also problematic, as they can get stuck because the mechanism fails, or the entire latch can simply pop off. The fixes are pretty easy, and have been detailed on both this forum and AudiWorld's TT forum. Another issue is that the manual transmissions (especially the 6spd in the 225) are known for having slow synchros and some grinding issues, especially in the 2-3 upshift. A common solution is to replace the stock fluid with Redline 75W90 transmission fluid, or the newer (arguably better) OEM fluid. The Redline is cheaper, and many TT owners have done this and reported that it cured the grinding issue, along with improving shifter smoothness. Another known issue is rust on the two roof strips (NOT the actual roof, which is part of the double-galvanized unibody), which can come off for the roof racks that Audi sells. Taking care of the rust only requires removal of the roof strips and a respray. Some TT owners complain that they have noisy suspension, and the majority of the time it is due to squeaky sway bar bushings. If you hear a strange creak when you hit a bump, you probably need new bushings. Generally, 2000-2002 are more finicky than the 2003-2006 model years. Finally, make sure that the Haldex has been serviced every 20,000 miles, with fresh fluid and a new filter.

In addition, here are some other things to look for:
* Driver seat left bolster for excessive wear
* Under the front and rear bumper for damage from curb stops
* Door sills for damage from people climbing in and out of car
* Speaker grills and bottom of door card for same damage
* Correct function of windows
* Missing lines on gauge info display, correct gauge function, etc
* Correct function of the radio, all speakers and 6 disc changer
* Sufficient torque - this can be checked with VAG-COM. From the factory, the TT has certain torque ratings (170 - 210 depending on model). When there is a significant drop in this number, the car will not perform as it should. This is caused by excessive carbon buildup in the head, or similar issues. Carbon buildup IS a common problem, so be wise before making a purchase as it is NOT covered by any warranties!

Mk1 TT production (body style/number produced):
• 1999 (Europe only): 52,579 (Coupe 44,022, Roadster 8,557)
• 2000: 56,776 (Coupe 31,064, Roadster 25,712)
TT only a 180hp coupe, with either FWD or quattro
Optional packages:
Comfort - heated seats
Audio - Bose sound system
Performance - 17inch alloys and xenon headlights
• 2001: 39,349 (Coupe 22,078, Roadster 17,271)
225-bhp edition w/ 6 speed manual, only quattro
Roadster becomes available, manual or power top - Europe also had a rare, optional hardtop
Baseballs stitched leather convertible option
FWD/quattro available on 180-bhp coupe model
ESP becomes standard, ducktail spoiler added, and alignment changed
Comfort and performance packages combined into premium package
GPS audio navigation optional
• 2002: 34,711 (Coupe 21,488, Roadster 13,223)
Standard audio system becomes a CD player instead of cassette player
*ALMS special edition (essentially a 225 appearance package)
-18 inch Audi 9 spoke RS wheels
-Misuno Red with Silver Nappa leather, or Avus Silver Pearl with Brilliant Red Nappa leather
-Door cards, knee bolster, seats and steering wheel had matching leather
• 2003: 32,337 (Coupe 20,807, Roadster 11,530)
180-bhp available only in FWD Tiptronic (automatic)
225-bhp available only in quattro/6spd manual
• 2004: 23,605 (Coupe 14,753, Roadster 8,852)
3.2 6cyl version released, coupe or roadster, only available with DSG and quattro. 225 continues, 180 becomes auto-only
S-Line appearance package optional
• 2005: 12,307 (Coupe 8,368, Roadster 3,939)
3.2, 225, and 180 auto
• 2006: 23,675 (Coupe 21,461, Roadster 2,214)
3.2, 225, and 180 auto
TT SE (special edition) released, available in several colors, all with a black roof - only on the 3.2
Old 08-08-2008 | 10:35 AM
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Default Re: what to avoid?

this is great info!!! totally answers a question I posed over in another current thread. thanks very much!
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