K guys quick question. I ran a diagnostic on my car while running, it's feeiling kinda weird, slightly slugish and not it's normal self. I thought it had something to do with the coil packs, i've been getting bad fuel economy as well (not that it's very good to start with but it's worse.) So turns out i'm getting misfires in 2 of the cylindars. Lots, during idle, it's rough and under throttle they go even more. So i think it's time to replace. Now i'm going to do All of them just because i dotn want to have to take all the crap off to do it again. I plan on keeping the good ones as backups, but my question is. What would be the best replacements for them? Ive check the rockport ppl just because theyre on this site sponsor, has anyone ordered from them before?

HAMBURG TECHNIC Part # 058905105A {Ignition Coil #058905105**

$48.99 $0.00 $48.99
AIRTEX Part # 5C1035

$56.79 $0.00 $56.79
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # UF290 {D.I.S. COIL**

$61.79 $0.00 $61.79
ACDELCO Part # E508A {#88921389**
COIL KIT,IGN 6 COILS REQD

So the prices vary from about 49.00 to 62.00 What would be the stock ones? Are there better than stock coilpacks? upgrades? If i'm taking something off, i'd like to replace it with better if possible. Later on down the road i might put a fueling kit on it. Right now i just have K04's stock everything else pretty much, except air intake, dv's mounts and inlet piping. Are the ACDELCO's that much better or more reliable than the airtex? is there better?

 

What did you use to run the diagnostic? The last time my car gave me terrible fuel economy and a rough idle, I had a bad EGT sensor. Bucked a fair bit when getting pff the throttle as well. Common problem it seems. Replaced them both and voila. Not saying it isn't your coilpacks...just curious what you used to check.

 

I have the cheap 12.00 vag com cable from ebay, i can read everything, i havnt tried nor will i to reprogram anything though. I should look into that. Although i'm sad to say it looks like i'm going to have to park the baby for the winter. Just started school, and insurance is KILLING me. 500/month :-s and i'm out of work right now so that doesnt help. And BECAUSE i own a "NICE" car OSAP wont approve me for a student loan. Bastards, so i'm looking into putting it into my parent's or brother's name and get fire and theft, park it then re-apply for the loan. But idealy i'd like to take the whole front end off this winter and do some work on the motor.
So how would i tell if it's the ETG sensor? because i'm getting the same things you described, but i attributed it to the misfire's.

 

The egt sensors will usually throw a code if you vag-com it, though they don't always. Misfire codes are pretty normal, they come and go. But if you have no thrown codes from egt sensors, it's a shot in the dark between egt's and coils...both are pricey. Around $300u.s. for egt's and min. $300 for coils.

Sorry bud.

 

How much mileage on the spark plugs and what brand / part number are they?

If you know which two cyl's are misfiring, try swapping related coilpaks with other cyl's and see if misfires follow the change. If not, then your coilpaks may not be the issue. Can try swapping plugs to see if misfires follow the change. Can also try swapping Power Output Stages to see if misfires move to the other cyl bank. If not resolved and as already discusssed, EGT's and O2's testing time, etc

 

Very commpn solution to the common problem replace both of them you will get rid of the issue

 

you might try swapping the coils from the misfiring cylinders with the ones that don't, it takes 5 minutes and you'll know for sure -
if the misfiring cylinders change to follow the coils, its bad coils - else look elsewhere.
sometimes the ignition amplifier is to blame; thats easy to check with a meter, if you search for a writeup its out there.
otherwise get the ECU scanned, it could easily be an O2 sensor issue, especially if fuel economy has been going down for a while, and the scan shows fuel trim values way out of whack and or constantly changing or hitting the limits, i'd suspect that- the ECU doesn't always directly detect a dying O2 sensor.
Its also a good idea to check all hoses for vacuum/boost leaks first.