B5/B6 clutch (no flywheel)
#341
Re: B6 running Super K04 turbo..need help please
You can try Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market
I have bought quite a few parts using this website, including an exhaust manifold, intake manifold, throttle body, rear brake calipers, an alternator, a valve cover, and an AC compressor for my girlfriend's Jetta. It's worth giving it a shot.
I have bought quite a few parts using this website, including an exhaust manifold, intake manifold, throttle body, rear brake calipers, an alternator, a valve cover, and an AC compressor for my girlfriend's Jetta. It's worth giving it a shot.
#343
DIY: removing the Helmholtz resonator (if you run a FMIC)
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This write-up is for the B6, I'm not sure if the other A4's are the same. The Helmholtz resonator doesn't really do anything with a FMIC, I decided to remove it. I took the camera and decided to do a little write up.
Here it is on the right side of the engine.
Here is a pic of the location of the resonator in relation to the DV and the FMIC pipe.
I started by loosening the hose clamps to the DV and the FMIC pipe, I then unscrewed the resonator from the engine (3 X 6mm hex screws).
Pic of the whole thing removed.
Pic of the area without the resonator and associated hoses.
Here you have a couple of options, you can keep the T and cap it, you can remove the T and use a connector for the two pieces of 1" tube. In my case I had a piece of silicone 1" tubing that was left over from my FMIC install, so I used that.
Pic of the finished product.
As you can see, it's a much cleaner setup and gives more space to work.
This write-up is for the B6, I'm not sure if the other A4's are the same. The Helmholtz resonator doesn't really do anything with a FMIC, I decided to remove it. I took the camera and decided to do a little write up.
Here it is on the right side of the engine.
Here is a pic of the location of the resonator in relation to the DV and the FMIC pipe.
I started by loosening the hose clamps to the DV and the FMIC pipe, I then unscrewed the resonator from the engine (3 X 6mm hex screws).
Pic of the whole thing removed.
Pic of the area without the resonator and associated hoses.
Here you have a couple of options, you can keep the T and cap it, you can remove the T and use a connector for the two pieces of 1" tube. In my case I had a piece of silicone 1" tubing that was left over from my FMIC install, so I used that.
Pic of the finished product.
As you can see, it's a much cleaner setup and gives more space to work.
#345
Eibach lowering springs
I have a set of 1.5" lowering springs that came off my 2003 A4 Avant. They have less 1,000 kms on them. They ride slightly stiffer than stock but are quite nice. If I didn't have to lug around my wife and kids on a daily basis, I would keep them. $300 obo for set. Located in Vancouver.
#346
I'm from northern Ontario, just wondering where people from...
southern Ontario buy their parts from? I have dealt with Independant Tuning, Pfaff Tuning, and Kompressor Kanada so far. Are there any other places you guys would suggest I check out?
Thanks in advance.
Here is a pic of my 2002 A4 1.8TQM
Thanks in advance.
Here is a pic of my 2002 A4 1.8TQM
Last edited by x1rider; 05-27-2007 at 12:18 PM.
#347
Re: I'm from northern Ontario, just wondering where people from..
oooo, shes sexy!
but to answer your qeustion, Pfaff Tuning.... keep your warranty intact
#350
CEL with high flow catalytic converter: DIY solution
Hi everyone, the following DIY write up fixed my catalytic insuficiency CEL I was getting with my HFC. It might work for a test pipe as well but I can't tell for sure. Enjoy!
I was getting a lot of "catalytic insufficiency" DTC's all winter so I decided to try VW Vortex's Wayne Schmidt's angled O2 sensor spacer.
Here is a pic of the main things required for the installation.
I did the installation from underneath the car so the first step was to remove the heat shield on top of the right axle (3 X 6mm screws).
That was the hardest part, I had to be creative with the wobble extensions to get the screws off (the top and front screws are most easily removed by getting enough extensions to place the ratchet in the right wheel well).
After a lot of swearing and knuckle busting, I finally managed to get the little f*cker off.
Pic of the rear O2 sensor from the hood.
Pic of the sensor from underneath the car.
I then unplugged the sensor to give me some slack (the plug is right by the coolant expansion tank).
I used a long handle ratchet and a Lambda wrench that I got from ECS to get the sensor off the HFC.
Pic of the sensor removed.
I put antiseize on the spacer block's threads.
I inserted the block with the hole facing backwards so I could put the O2 sensor in easily.
I put antiseize on the sensor, I did it from the hood, it was easier than from underneath the car.
I then inserted the sensor in the block, tightened it with the Lambda wrench and tightened the jam nut on the block (27mm).
Pic of the finished product.
I then put the goddamn heat shield back on and replugged the sensor.
I scanned the car with Vag-Com and discovered I had a "latent" DTC, just waiting to light up my dash.
I cleared it and we'll see how well the spacer works.
It's been a few months now and I never got the cat. insuficiency CEL again!!!
I was getting a lot of "catalytic insufficiency" DTC's all winter so I decided to try VW Vortex's Wayne Schmidt's angled O2 sensor spacer.
Here is a pic of the main things required for the installation.
I did the installation from underneath the car so the first step was to remove the heat shield on top of the right axle (3 X 6mm screws).
That was the hardest part, I had to be creative with the wobble extensions to get the screws off (the top and front screws are most easily removed by getting enough extensions to place the ratchet in the right wheel well).
After a lot of swearing and knuckle busting, I finally managed to get the little f*cker off.
Pic of the rear O2 sensor from the hood.
Pic of the sensor from underneath the car.
I then unplugged the sensor to give me some slack (the plug is right by the coolant expansion tank).
I used a long handle ratchet and a Lambda wrench that I got from ECS to get the sensor off the HFC.
Pic of the sensor removed.
I put antiseize on the spacer block's threads.
I inserted the block with the hole facing backwards so I could put the O2 sensor in easily.
I put antiseize on the sensor, I did it from the hood, it was easier than from underneath the car.
I then inserted the sensor in the block, tightened it with the Lambda wrench and tightened the jam nut on the block (27mm).
Pic of the finished product.
I then put the goddamn heat shield back on and replugged the sensor.
I scanned the car with Vag-Com and discovered I had a "latent" DTC, just waiting to light up my dash.
I cleared it and we'll see how well the spacer works.
It's been a few months now and I never got the cat. insuficiency CEL again!!!