>> A CV on the way out will either knock (if it's really screwed) or tug at
>> the wheel rythmically (if it's on it's way) on a turn under
>> accelleration. Most noticeable at low speed with a high torque loading.


Thats it... thats exactly what its doing.. Tugging at the wheel
rhythmically in a turn under acceleration. Its like you were riding in
the car with me!!!

Now.... What can I expect to pay a shop to have the entire CV axle
swapped out? This something I can do in my driveway with the right
hardware? Should I change the whole axle... or just the offending
joint?

Thanks for all the answers fellas.....

Jake

 

jake@rakestraw.com wrote:
>>> A CV on the way out will either knock (if it's really screwed) or tug at
>>> the wheel rythmically (if it's on it's way) on a turn under
>>> accelleration. Most noticeable at low speed with a high torque loading.
>
>
> Thats it... thats exactly what its doing.. Tugging at the wheel
> rhythmically in a turn under acceleration. Its like you were riding in
> the car with me!!!
>
> Now.... What can I expect to pay a shop to have the entire CV axle
> swapped out? This something I can do in my driveway with the right
> hardware? Should I change the whole axle... or just the offending
> joint?
>
> Thanks for all the answers fellas.....
>
> Jake
>
It will probably only be one joint, and it's probably the outer one on
the outside of the turn (so turning left, it's the R/H outer joint).

Changing a CV isn't usually that hard. I've never done an A4, but I once
did a Mk2 Golf on a driveway in about 30 minutes. It depends how hard it
is to get the suspension dismantled to get at it: A4 suspension is
complicated, golf 2 is simple. Once you can get at it the joint is a
breeze to replace.

 

jake@rakestraw.com wrote:
>>> A CV on the way out will either knock (if it's really screwed) or tug at
>>> the wheel rythmically (if it's on it's way) on a turn under
>>> accelleration. Most noticeable at low speed with a high torque loading.
>
>
> Thats it... thats exactly what its doing.. Tugging at the wheel
> rhythmically in a turn under acceleration. Its like you were riding in
> the car with me!!!
>
> Now.... What can I expect to pay a shop to have the entire CV axle
> swapped out? This something I can do in my driveway with the right
> hardware? Should I change the whole axle... or just the offending
> joint?
>
> Thanks for all the answers fellas.....
>
> Jake
>
It will probably only be one joint, and it's probably the outer one on
the outside of the turn (so turning left, it's the R/H outer joint).

Changing a CV isn't usually that hard. I've never done an A4, but I once
did a Mk2 Golf on a driveway in about 30 minutes. It depends how hard it
is to get the suspension dismantled to get at it: A4 suspension is
complicated, golf 2 is simple. Once you can get at it the joint is a
breeze to replace.

 

jake@rakestraw.com wrote:
>>> A CV on the way out will either knock (if it's really screwed) or tug at
>>> the wheel rythmically (if it's on it's way) on a turn under
>>> accelleration. Most noticeable at low speed with a high torque loading.
>
>
> Thats it... thats exactly what its doing.. Tugging at the wheel
> rhythmically in a turn under acceleration. Its like you were riding in
> the car with me!!!
>
> Now.... What can I expect to pay a shop to have the entire CV axle
> swapped out? This something I can do in my driveway with the right
> hardware? Should I change the whole axle... or just the offending
> joint?
>
> Thanks for all the answers fellas.....
>
> Jake
>
It will probably only be one joint, and it's probably the outer one on
the outside of the turn (so turning left, it's the R/H outer joint).

Changing a CV isn't usually that hard. I've never done an A4, but I once
did a Mk2 Golf on a driveway in about 30 minutes. It depends how hard it
is to get the suspension dismantled to get at it: A4 suspension is
complicated, golf 2 is simple. Once you can get at it the joint is a
breeze to replace.

 

jake@rakestraw.com wrote:
>>> A CV on the way out will either knock (if it's really screwed) or tug at
>>> the wheel rythmically (if it's on it's way) on a turn under
>>> accelleration. Most noticeable at low speed with a high torque loading.
>
>
> Thats it... thats exactly what its doing.. Tugging at the wheel
> rhythmically in a turn under acceleration. Its like you were riding in
> the car with me!!!
>
> Now.... What can I expect to pay a shop to have the entire CV axle
> swapped out? This something I can do in my driveway with the right
> hardware? Should I change the whole axle... or just the offending
> joint?
>
> Thanks for all the answers fellas.....
>
> Jake
>
It will probably only be one joint, and it's probably the outer one on
the outside of the turn (so turning left, it's the R/H outer joint).

Changing a CV isn't usually that hard. I've never done an A4, but I once
did a Mk2 Golf on a driveway in about 30 minutes. It depends how hard it
is to get the suspension dismantled to get at it: A4 suspension is
complicated, golf 2 is simple. Once you can get at it the joint is a
breeze to replace.

 

Chris Bartram wrote:
> jake@rakestraw.com wrote:
>>>> A CV on the way out will either knock (if it's really screwed) or
>>>> tug at
>>>> the wheel rythmically (if it's on it's way) on a turn under
>>>> accelleration. Most noticeable at low speed with a high torque loading.
>>
>>
>> Thats it... thats exactly what its doing.. Tugging at the wheel
>> rhythmically in a turn under acceleration. Its like you were riding in
>> the car with me!!!
>>
>> Now.... What can I expect to pay a shop to have the entire CV axle
>> swapped out? This something I can do in my driveway with the right
>> hardware? Should I change the whole axle... or just the offending
>> joint?
>>
>> Thanks for all the answers fellas.....
>>
>> Jake
>>
> It will probably only be one joint, and it's probably the outer one on
> the outside of the turn (so turning left, it's the R/H outer joint).
>
> Changing a CV isn't usually that hard. I've never done an A4, but I once
> did a Mk2 Golf on a driveway in about 30 minutes. It depends how hard it
> is to get the suspension dismantled to get at it: A4 suspension is
> complicated, golf 2 is simple. Once you can get at it the joint is a
> breeze to replace.

With the A4 you will need to allocate more like three hours.
- The inner CV flange is held to the trans output with bolts that are
'tri-square' drive. This is not Torx or Allen. You can find them at most car
parts stores. NAPA has them. A set of four sizes should cost about $15.

There are several ways to get the suspension apart to remove the axle.
- lower ball joint.
- removing the three bolts inside the engine bay that hold the top of the strut
and unload the sway bar tension by lifting both sides of the car.


Replacing the whole axle is more cost effective and not much more that
replacing the CV.

One thing that is a bit difficult to deal with is removing the heat shields if
the passenger side axle is being replaced. Lots of long wrench extensions will
be needed.

This would also be a good time to replace the wheel bearing.

 

Chris Bartram wrote:
> jake@rakestraw.com wrote:
>>>> A CV on the way out will either knock (if it's really screwed) or
>>>> tug at
>>>> the wheel rythmically (if it's on it's way) on a turn under
>>>> accelleration. Most noticeable at low speed with a high torque loading.
>>
>>
>> Thats it... thats exactly what its doing.. Tugging at the wheel
>> rhythmically in a turn under acceleration. Its like you were riding in
>> the car with me!!!
>>
>> Now.... What can I expect to pay a shop to have the entire CV axle
>> swapped out? This something I can do in my driveway with the right
>> hardware? Should I change the whole axle... or just the offending
>> joint?
>>
>> Thanks for all the answers fellas.....
>>
>> Jake
>>
> It will probably only be one joint, and it's probably the outer one on
> the outside of the turn (so turning left, it's the R/H outer joint).
>
> Changing a CV isn't usually that hard. I've never done an A4, but I once
> did a Mk2 Golf on a driveway in about 30 minutes. It depends how hard it
> is to get the suspension dismantled to get at it: A4 suspension is
> complicated, golf 2 is simple. Once you can get at it the joint is a
> breeze to replace.

With the A4 you will need to allocate more like three hours.
- The inner CV flange is held to the trans output with bolts that are
'tri-square' drive. This is not Torx or Allen. You can find them at most car
parts stores. NAPA has them. A set of four sizes should cost about $15.

There are several ways to get the suspension apart to remove the axle.
- lower ball joint.
- removing the three bolts inside the engine bay that hold the top of the strut
and unload the sway bar tension by lifting both sides of the car.


Replacing the whole axle is more cost effective and not much more that
replacing the CV.

One thing that is a bit difficult to deal with is removing the heat shields if
the passenger side axle is being replaced. Lots of long wrench extensions will
be needed.

This would also be a good time to replace the wheel bearing.

 

Chris Bartram wrote:
> jake@rakestraw.com wrote:
>>>> A CV on the way out will either knock (if it's really screwed) or
>>>> tug at
>>>> the wheel rythmically (if it's on it's way) on a turn under
>>>> accelleration. Most noticeable at low speed with a high torque loading.
>>
>>
>> Thats it... thats exactly what its doing.. Tugging at the wheel
>> rhythmically in a turn under acceleration. Its like you were riding in
>> the car with me!!!
>>
>> Now.... What can I expect to pay a shop to have the entire CV axle
>> swapped out? This something I can do in my driveway with the right
>> hardware? Should I change the whole axle... or just the offending
>> joint?
>>
>> Thanks for all the answers fellas.....
>>
>> Jake
>>
> It will probably only be one joint, and it's probably the outer one on
> the outside of the turn (so turning left, it's the R/H outer joint).
>
> Changing a CV isn't usually that hard. I've never done an A4, but I once
> did a Mk2 Golf on a driveway in about 30 minutes. It depends how hard it
> is to get the suspension dismantled to get at it: A4 suspension is
> complicated, golf 2 is simple. Once you can get at it the joint is a
> breeze to replace.

With the A4 you will need to allocate more like three hours.
- The inner CV flange is held to the trans output with bolts that are
'tri-square' drive. This is not Torx or Allen. You can find them at most car
parts stores. NAPA has them. A set of four sizes should cost about $15.

There are several ways to get the suspension apart to remove the axle.
- lower ball joint.
- removing the three bolts inside the engine bay that hold the top of the strut
and unload the sway bar tension by lifting both sides of the car.


Replacing the whole axle is more cost effective and not much more that
replacing the CV.

One thing that is a bit difficult to deal with is removing the heat shields if
the passenger side axle is being replaced. Lots of long wrench extensions will
be needed.

This would also be a good time to replace the wheel bearing.

 

Chris Bartram wrote:
> jake@rakestraw.com wrote:
>>>> A CV on the way out will either knock (if it's really screwed) or
>>>> tug at
>>>> the wheel rythmically (if it's on it's way) on a turn under
>>>> accelleration. Most noticeable at low speed with a high torque loading.
>>
>>
>> Thats it... thats exactly what its doing.. Tugging at the wheel
>> rhythmically in a turn under acceleration. Its like you were riding in
>> the car with me!!!
>>
>> Now.... What can I expect to pay a shop to have the entire CV axle
>> swapped out? This something I can do in my driveway with the right
>> hardware? Should I change the whole axle... or just the offending
>> joint?
>>
>> Thanks for all the answers fellas.....
>>
>> Jake
>>
> It will probably only be one joint, and it's probably the outer one on
> the outside of the turn (so turning left, it's the R/H outer joint).
>
> Changing a CV isn't usually that hard. I've never done an A4, but I once
> did a Mk2 Golf on a driveway in about 30 minutes. It depends how hard it
> is to get the suspension dismantled to get at it: A4 suspension is
> complicated, golf 2 is simple. Once you can get at it the joint is a
> breeze to replace.

With the A4 you will need to allocate more like three hours.
- The inner CV flange is held to the trans output with bolts that are
'tri-square' drive. This is not Torx or Allen. You can find them at most car
parts stores. NAPA has them. A set of four sizes should cost about $15.

There are several ways to get the suspension apart to remove the axle.
- lower ball joint.
- removing the three bolts inside the engine bay that hold the top of the strut
and unload the sway bar tension by lifting both sides of the car.


Replacing the whole axle is more cost effective and not much more that
replacing the CV.

One thing that is a bit difficult to deal with is removing the heat shields if
the passenger side axle is being replaced. Lots of long wrench extensions will
be needed.

This would also be a good time to replace the wheel bearing.