I have to find another complete 087 series 3speed transmission and
differential for my last-of-the-5000s. I have bought very cheaply a very
tidy car but the trans is very dead...

My option at this stage is to buy a breakeryard unit that will be given a
freshen up, even a reconditioning and so my question is more about
differentials than anything....

It need a serviceable diff though (see later) so, is it a good rough-check
guide of the sate of a diff that by holding one output driveshaft and
rotating the opposite side there shouldn't be lots of rotational movement?

The car i have, i could rotate the Lobro joints had about 50 degrees...that
was a lot of slop for any diff.

Background:
The car is actually badged a 1989 100 2.2 EE, 5 cylinder.I pulled the diff
to pieces yesterday and discovered the crownwheel and pinion are history and
lots of metal sludge in the bottom of the case.. The pinion carrier bearing
into the auto trans end had grenaded so the auto trans MUST be smashed
inside. The governor has lost most of its teeth too and its centrifugal
weights had broken off. The ex-owner must have noticed the whine noises?

Sadly, the car itself is in lovely condition with a great interior. The
ex-owner had installed a new battery and on the day he refuelled it ceased
shifting up from 1st. He'd had services done but for some reason 'they'
never picked up on the importance of diff oil levels and the ATF mixing
failure thing....

Any advice appreciated.

Pete

 

Pete,
(JPF may chime in) From what I hear boneyard trannies will only prolong the
inevitable - most of the cars in the wrecking yard are there _because_ the
tranny has died. It's not like the body will rust out first, right?
You might have success with a car that has been hit - the more intact ones I
see usually have copious amounts of goo leaking from the autobox.
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ - manual 5sp
1980 Audi 5k - manual 5sp...beginning to see a pattern....
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - manual 4 sp....on the
column.....
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
"Pete" <petebREMOVETHIS@clear.net.nz> wrote in message
news:3fb4e5f4@clear.net.nz...
> I have to find another complete 087 series 3speed transmission and
> differential for my last-of-the-5000s. I have bought very cheaply a very
> tidy car but the trans is very dead...
>
> My option at this stage is to buy a breakeryard unit that will be given a
> freshen up, even a reconditioning and so my question is more about
> differentials than anything....
>
> It need a serviceable diff though (see later) so, is it a good rough-check
> guide of the sate of a diff that by holding one output driveshaft and
> rotating the opposite side there shouldn't be lots of rotational movement?
>
> The car i have, i could rotate the Lobro joints had about 50
degrees...that
> was a lot of slop for any diff.
>
> Background:
> The car is actually badged a 1989 100 2.2 EE, 5 cylinder.I pulled the diff
> to pieces yesterday and discovered the crownwheel and pinion are history
and
> lots of metal sludge in the bottom of the case.. The pinion carrier
bearing
> into the auto trans end had grenaded so the auto trans MUST be smashed
> inside. The governor has lost most of its teeth too and its centrifugal
> weights had broken off. The ex-owner must have noticed the whine noises?
>
> Sadly, the car itself is in lovely condition with a great interior. The
> ex-owner had installed a new battery and on the day he refuelled it ceased
> shifting up from 1st. He'd had services done but for some reason 'they'
> never picked up on the importance of diff oil levels and the ATF mixing
> failure thing....
>
> Any advice appreciated.
>
> Pete
>
>