This isn't actually the usual question. I've had a very slightly sticky rear
piston (on an A6 1996 model ) so I've overhauled the calipers to see if that
does the trick. I've got one of the two back together and I've screwed the
piston back in till it's almost flush with the boot - it's about 1mm proud
of the boot. Is that far enough? What a sod of a job, incidentally. I don't
want to force it further because I'm worried about damaging the boot as I'm
having to grip the end of the piston to turn it.

Then I thought, since I'm not replacing the pads, which have plenty of life
left, should I have retracted the piston all the way? I think probably the
answer is yes, and that the handbrake mechanism will sort itself out, but
can anyone confirm.

Second, presumably the procedure when I 've got the caliper back on the car
is to take up the slack by pumping the pedal till the piston hits the pads
tight against the disc, and then leave the self-adjusting handbrake to do
itself.

Incidentally the seal kit had some pinkish gunk which you soak the piston
seal in for at least 45 minutes. I've never seen it before. What's going on
with that? It doesn't make re-fitting the piston any easier without the
special tool. I only soaked the seal itself and not the boot. Should I have
soaked both?

Amazingly the caliper, pistons and handbrake mechanism all seem in good
condition, so that's one thing Audi have improved since the 1980s.

Thanks for any advice.

 

You can buy a tool in halfords to wind back the pistons. Saves ages when
they are on the car.

Rgds
alec

"Jonathan Morton" <jonathan@removethisjonathanmorton.co.uk> wrote in message
news:bkira8$scc$1@sparta.btinternet.com...
> This isn't actually the usual question. I've had a very slightly sticky
rear
> piston (on an A6 1996 model ) so I've overhauled the calipers to see if
that
> does the trick. I've got one of the two back together and I've screwed the
> piston back in till it's almost flush with the boot - it's about 1mm proud
> of the boot. Is that far enough? What a sod of a job, incidentally. I
don't
> want to force it further because I'm worried about damaging the boot as
I'm
> having to grip the end of the piston to turn it.
>
> Then I thought, since I'm not replacing the pads, which have plenty of
life
> left, should I have retracted the piston all the way? I think probably the
> answer is yes, and that the handbrake mechanism will sort itself out, but
> can anyone confirm.
>
> Second, presumably the procedure when I 've got the caliper back on the
car
> is to take up the slack by pumping the pedal till the piston hits the pads
> tight against the disc, and then leave the self-adjusting handbrake to do
> itself.
>
> Incidentally the seal kit had some pinkish gunk which you soak the piston
> seal in for at least 45 minutes. I've never seen it before. What's going
on
> with that? It doesn't make re-fitting the piston any easier without the
> special tool. I only soaked the seal itself and not the boot. Should I
have
> soaked both?
>
> Amazingly the caliper, pistons and handbrake mechanism all seem in good
> condition, so that's one thing Audi have improved since the 1980s.
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
>

 

"Alec" <alec@mascotte.demon.co.uk> wrote in message
news:bkk6op$pm9$1@sparta.btinternet.com...
> You can buy a tool in halfords to wind back the pistons. Saves ages when
> they are on the car.
>
> Rgds
> alec

You can indeed. I've seen it many times and it cunningly doesn't mention
Audi, so I've never thought of buying it. But in the light of what you said
I took my piston along to check and yes it works perfectly. Result -
something that took me three hours last night on one caliper took five
minutes this afternoon on the other. Thanks!

BTW it's 20 pounds. Money well spent.

Car is back together again and stopping. Now for the fronts next weekend...

Jonathan