I have an 1984 Audi 4000 and I recently installed new pistons and rings.
Everything went smooth, but I new I can't get the oil pan to stop leaking
oil. I've replace the gasket 3 times, torqued the nuts to spec,, used high
temp gasket sealer,, and still get a leaky gasket. The gasket is the cork
kind. What am I doing wrong?

 

A build up of pressure in the crankcase could force oil out of various
places due to the high pressure, if the new pistons / rings are not a good
fit, gasses will pass them & cause a massive increase in pressure in the
crankcase, remove the oil filler cap & run the engine, there should be
virtually no fumes / pressure coming out of it, put your hand over the
filler cap hole & gently rev the engine, if you feel the gas pressure
against your fingers you may have a serious problem, either ill fitting
pistons rings, or a blocked crankcase breather,

Steve.

"Art" <merc4711@onemain.com> wrote in message
news:ghweb.194463$mp.113988@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att. net...
> I have an 1984 Audi 4000 and I recently installed new pistons and rings.
> Everything went smooth, but I new I can't get the oil pan to stop leaking
> oil. I've replace the gasket 3 times, torqued the nuts to spec,, used high
> temp gasket sealer,, and still get a leaky gasket. The gasket is the cork
> kind. What am I doing wrong?
>
>

 

>From: "Art" merc4711@onemain.com
>
>I have an 1984 Audi 4000 and I recently installed new pistons and rings.
>Everything went smooth, but I new I can't get the oil pan to stop leaking
>oil. I've replace the gasket 3 times, torqued the nuts to spec,, used high
>temp gasket sealer,, and still get a leaky gasket. The gasket is the cork
>kind. What am I doing wrong?

Is that cork gasket splitting?
You are torqueing it down too much. You will have to just get bolts snug with
that cork gasket.

The dealer, and some aftermarket places, can sell you a very hard gasket that
when you torque it down it will not require sealers nor will it leak.

Or there is a straight RTV option but you definitely only tighten the bolts a
little to get an even seal all the way around the surfaces.

ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE SURFACES ARE GREASE/OIL FREE!! And that is no small task
with the engine block. lol

later,
dave
Reminder........
Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That way,
when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their
shoes. Frieda Norris

 

Art,
In addition to what Dave mentioned, note that if you are using Synthetic
oil, you may experience leakage through the gasket, as the synth has a way
of shrinking cork gaskets.
Cheers!

--
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ - Rubber gaskets, synth oil coexisting happily
1980 Audi 5k - cork valve cover gasket cried "argh!" then leaked the Mobil 1
all over the intake manifold.
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - engine oil....whuzzat?
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
"dave" <vwdoc1@aol.comANTISPAM> wrote in message
news:20031001093033.06891.00000087@mb-m20.aol.com...
> >From: "Art" merc4711@onemain.com
> >
> >I have an 1984 Audi 4000 and I recently installed new pistons and rings.
> >Everything went smooth, but I new I can't get the oil pan to stop leaking
> >oil. I've replace the gasket 3 times, torqued the nuts to spec,, used
high
> >temp gasket sealer,, and still get a leaky gasket. The gasket is the
cork
> >kind. What am I doing wrong?
>
> Is that cork gasket splitting?
> You are torqueing it down too much. You will have to just get bolts snug
with
> that cork gasket.
>
> The dealer, and some aftermarket places, can sell you a very hard gasket
that
> when you torque it down it will not require sealers nor will it leak.
>
> Or there is a straight RTV option but you definitely only tighten the
bolts a
> little to get an even seal all the way around the surfaces.
>
> ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE SURFACES ARE GREASE/OIL FREE!! And that is no small
task
> with the engine block. lol
>
> later,
> dave
> Reminder........
> Before you criticize someone, you should walk a mile in their shoes. That
way,
> when you criticize them, you are a mile away from them, and you have their
> shoes. Frieda Norris
>

 

Another thing to check is if you have stretched the metal around the
bolt hos by tightening too much. If you lay the pan on a flat surface it
should seal and not stand up on the stretched metal by the bolt holes.

If they are stretched, you can carefully bend them flat with the rest of
the surface by carefully hammering them back to flat.

Tony
'91 100Q 5spd

Art wrote:
> I have an 1984 Audi 4000 and I recently installed new pistons and rings.
> Everything went smooth, but I new I can't get the oil pan to stop leaking
> oil. I've replace the gasket 3 times, torqued the nuts to spec,, used high
> temp gasket sealer,, and still get a leaky gasket. The gasket is the cork
> kind. What am I doing wrong?
>
>

 

"Art" <merc4711@onemain.com> schreef in bericht
news:ghweb.194463$mp.113988@rwcrnsc51.ops.asp.att. net...
> I have an 1984 Audi 4000 and I recently installed new pistons and rings.
> Everything went smooth, but I new I can't get the oil pan to stop leaking
> oil. I've replace the gasket 3 times, torqued the nuts to spec,, used high
> temp gasket sealer,, and still get a leaky gasket. The gasket is the cork
> kind. What am I doing wrong?
>

Also check if the surfaces of the pan and block are clean and almost like
pollished. The head of the engine in my car was revised by a specialist and
he made the head faces a bit rough at the top, so the valvecover gasket was
leaking everytime. Took some metal pollish and pollished it. Now it almost
does not leak (since >50.000km).

Al