Need to replace front struts.
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need to replace front struts.
>
> Alan:
>
> Replacing the strut CARTRIDGE is an easy task. I can replace both of
> them on an A6/S6 in less than half an hour. I think the OE cartridges
> are about $65 ea.
>
> It is NOT necessary to remove the entire strut housing and it is NOT
> necessary to remove the spring. Changing the cartridge involves
> removing the upper strut bushing, loosening the 'gland' nut that holds
> the cartridge in the strut housing and pulling the cartridge out of the
> housing. It comes out straight up thru the opening left by removing the
> upper strut bushing.
>
> Now, I do have the special tools for this. The more critical of the two
> is the tool for removing the nut that holds the strut piston rod to the
> strut bushing. I have made this tool several times by cutting the side
> out of a deep socket of the correct size.
>
> Less critical is the tool for removing the gland nut on the housing; a
> pipe wrench or channel lock pliers will suffice, BUT the tool sure
> makes things much easier. No way to make this tool, regrettably.
>
> Contact me off-list if you care to. I think I can help you.
> (RubEric@aol.com
>
> Eric.
>
I admit I'm not specifically familiar with the A6 suspension. As I read
your post it appears that the entire strut remains in place and the
cartridge is pulled out the top. If so this is a HUGE improvement over the
way it used to be on VW/Audi products.
Alan
> Alan:
>
> Replacing the strut CARTRIDGE is an easy task. I can replace both of
> them on an A6/S6 in less than half an hour. I think the OE cartridges
> are about $65 ea.
>
> It is NOT necessary to remove the entire strut housing and it is NOT
> necessary to remove the spring. Changing the cartridge involves
> removing the upper strut bushing, loosening the 'gland' nut that holds
> the cartridge in the strut housing and pulling the cartridge out of the
> housing. It comes out straight up thru the opening left by removing the
> upper strut bushing.
>
> Now, I do have the special tools for this. The more critical of the two
> is the tool for removing the nut that holds the strut piston rod to the
> strut bushing. I have made this tool several times by cutting the side
> out of a deep socket of the correct size.
>
> Less critical is the tool for removing the gland nut on the housing; a
> pipe wrench or channel lock pliers will suffice, BUT the tool sure
> makes things much easier. No way to make this tool, regrettably.
>
> Contact me off-list if you care to. I think I can help you.
> (RubEric@aol.com
>
> Eric.
>
I admit I'm not specifically familiar with the A6 suspension. As I read
your post it appears that the entire strut remains in place and the
cartridge is pulled out the top. If so this is a HUGE improvement over the
way it used to be on VW/Audi products.
Alan
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need to replace front struts.
wtrplnet wrote:
> >
> > Alan:
> >
> > Replacing the strut CARTRIDGE is an easy task. I can replace both of
> > them on an A6/S6 in less than half an hour. I think the OE cartridges
> > are about $65 ea.
> >
> > It is NOT necessary to remove the entire strut housing and it is NOT
> > necessary to remove the spring. Changing the cartridge involves
> > removing the upper strut bushing, loosening the 'gland' nut that holds
> > the cartridge in the strut housing and pulling the cartridge out of the
> > housing. It comes out straight up thru the opening left by removing the
> > upper strut bushing.
> >
> > Now, I do have the special tools for this. The more critical of the two
> > is the tool for removing the nut that holds the strut piston rod to the
> > strut bushing. I have made this tool several times by cutting the side
> > out of a deep socket of the correct size.
> >
> > Less critical is the tool for removing the gland nut on the housing; a
> > pipe wrench or channel lock pliers will suffice, BUT the tool sure
> > makes things much easier. No way to make this tool, regrettably.
> >
> > Contact me off-list if you care to. I think I can help you.
> > (RubEric@aol.com
> >
> > Eric.
> >
>
> I admit I'm not specifically familiar with the A6 suspension. As I read
> your post it appears that the entire strut remains in place and the
> cartridge is pulled out the top. If so this is a HUGE improvement over the
> way it used to be on VW/Audi products.
>
> Alan
Alan:
That is correct - the strut housing, spring, upper spring seat, etc
need NOT to be removed to replace the strut cartridge.
Look at the top strut mount under the hood. There should be a plastic
triangular-shaped cover over the strut mount. There are three
self-locking nuts that attach the mount to car. (Slotted holes in the
mount are for camber adjustment. Mark the location before removing)
There is a larger single nut in the center of the mount that connects
the strut rod to the upper mount. You have to hold the the strut rod
with an allen wrench when loosening this nut. The allen socket in the
end of the rod is an uncommon size - 7 mm, I think - not found in most
allen wrench sets. Get one from sears. The nut itself is 'buried' in
the upper washer and needs a socket for removal. Hence the tool for
removing this nut is a deep socket with the side cut away. You insert
the allen wrench thru the resulting opening to hold the strut rod from
turning and loosen the nut with the socket.
Look at the condition of the upper strut mount rubber while you are
there although they seem to have good life expectancy. About $50 for
that part. Also examine the strut bellows - the rubber part that
protects the strut rod. This is important to protecting the polished
surface of the rod. If it is damaged, replace it. Less than $20.00 for
this part.
There was quite a good writeup in the AudiFans page but the url seems
to have expired. If you like, I can snail mail a copy.
Where are you located?
Don't hesitate to contact me for help.
Eric
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need to replace front struts.
wtrplnet wrote:
> >
> > Alan:
> >
> > Replacing the strut CARTRIDGE is an easy task. I can replace both of
> > them on an A6/S6 in less than half an hour. I think the OE cartridges
> > are about $65 ea.
> >
> > It is NOT necessary to remove the entire strut housing and it is NOT
> > necessary to remove the spring. Changing the cartridge involves
> > removing the upper strut bushing, loosening the 'gland' nut that holds
> > the cartridge in the strut housing and pulling the cartridge out of the
> > housing. It comes out straight up thru the opening left by removing the
> > upper strut bushing.
> >
> > Now, I do have the special tools for this. The more critical of the two
> > is the tool for removing the nut that holds the strut piston rod to the
> > strut bushing. I have made this tool several times by cutting the side
> > out of a deep socket of the correct size.
> >
> > Less critical is the tool for removing the gland nut on the housing; a
> > pipe wrench or channel lock pliers will suffice, BUT the tool sure
> > makes things much easier. No way to make this tool, regrettably.
> >
> > Contact me off-list if you care to. I think I can help you.
> > (RubEric@aol.com
> >
> > Eric.
> >
>
> I admit I'm not specifically familiar with the A6 suspension. As I read
> your post it appears that the entire strut remains in place and the
> cartridge is pulled out the top. If so this is a HUGE improvement over the
> way it used to be on VW/Audi products.
>
> Alan
Alan:
That is correct - the strut housing, spring, upper spring seat, etc
need NOT to be removed to replace the strut cartridge.
Look at the top strut mount under the hood. There should be a plastic
triangular-shaped cover over the strut mount. There are three
self-locking nuts that attach the mount to car. (Slotted holes in the
mount are for camber adjustment. Mark the location before removing)
There is a larger single nut in the center of the mount that connects
the strut rod to the upper mount. You have to hold the the strut rod
with an allen wrench when loosening this nut. The allen socket in the
end of the rod is an uncommon size - 7 mm, I think - not found in most
allen wrench sets. Get one from sears. The nut itself is 'buried' in
the upper washer and needs a socket for removal. Hence the tool for
removing this nut is a deep socket with the side cut away. You insert
the allen wrench thru the resulting opening to hold the strut rod from
turning and loosen the nut with the socket.
Look at the condition of the upper strut mount rubber while you are
there although they seem to have good life expectancy. About $50 for
that part. Also examine the strut bellows - the rubber part that
protects the strut rod. This is important to protecting the polished
surface of the rod. If it is damaged, replace it. Less than $20.00 for
this part.
There was quite a good writeup in the AudiFans page but the url seems
to have expired. If you like, I can snail mail a copy.
Where are you located?
Don't hesitate to contact me for help.
Eric
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need to replace front struts.
wtrplnet wrote:
> >
> > Alan:
> >
> > Replacing the strut CARTRIDGE is an easy task. I can replace both of
> > them on an A6/S6 in less than half an hour. I think the OE cartridges
> > are about $65 ea.
> >
> > It is NOT necessary to remove the entire strut housing and it is NOT
> > necessary to remove the spring. Changing the cartridge involves
> > removing the upper strut bushing, loosening the 'gland' nut that holds
> > the cartridge in the strut housing and pulling the cartridge out of the
> > housing. It comes out straight up thru the opening left by removing the
> > upper strut bushing.
> >
> > Now, I do have the special tools for this. The more critical of the two
> > is the tool for removing the nut that holds the strut piston rod to the
> > strut bushing. I have made this tool several times by cutting the side
> > out of a deep socket of the correct size.
> >
> > Less critical is the tool for removing the gland nut on the housing; a
> > pipe wrench or channel lock pliers will suffice, BUT the tool sure
> > makes things much easier. No way to make this tool, regrettably.
> >
> > Contact me off-list if you care to. I think I can help you.
> > (RubEric@aol.com
> >
> > Eric.
> >
>
> I admit I'm not specifically familiar with the A6 suspension. As I read
> your post it appears that the entire strut remains in place and the
> cartridge is pulled out the top. If so this is a HUGE improvement over the
> way it used to be on VW/Audi products.
>
> Alan
Alan:
That is correct - the strut housing, spring, upper spring seat, etc
need NOT to be removed to replace the strut cartridge.
Look at the top strut mount under the hood. There should be a plastic
triangular-shaped cover over the strut mount. There are three
self-locking nuts that attach the mount to car. (Slotted holes in the
mount are for camber adjustment. Mark the location before removing)
There is a larger single nut in the center of the mount that connects
the strut rod to the upper mount. You have to hold the the strut rod
with an allen wrench when loosening this nut. The allen socket in the
end of the rod is an uncommon size - 7 mm, I think - not found in most
allen wrench sets. Get one from sears. The nut itself is 'buried' in
the upper washer and needs a socket for removal. Hence the tool for
removing this nut is a deep socket with the side cut away. You insert
the allen wrench thru the resulting opening to hold the strut rod from
turning and loosen the nut with the socket.
Look at the condition of the upper strut mount rubber while you are
there although they seem to have good life expectancy. About $50 for
that part. Also examine the strut bellows - the rubber part that
protects the strut rod. This is important to protecting the polished
surface of the rod. If it is damaged, replace it. Less than $20.00 for
this part.
There was quite a good writeup in the AudiFans page but the url seems
to have expired. If you like, I can snail mail a copy.
Where are you located?
Don't hesitate to contact me for help.
Eric
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need to replace front struts.
wtrplnet wrote:
> >
> > Alan:
> >
> > Replacing the strut CARTRIDGE is an easy task. I can replace both of
> > them on an A6/S6 in less than half an hour. I think the OE cartridges
> > are about $65 ea.
> >
> > It is NOT necessary to remove the entire strut housing and it is NOT
> > necessary to remove the spring. Changing the cartridge involves
> > removing the upper strut bushing, loosening the 'gland' nut that holds
> > the cartridge in the strut housing and pulling the cartridge out of the
> > housing. It comes out straight up thru the opening left by removing the
> > upper strut bushing.
> >
> > Now, I do have the special tools for this. The more critical of the two
> > is the tool for removing the nut that holds the strut piston rod to the
> > strut bushing. I have made this tool several times by cutting the side
> > out of a deep socket of the correct size.
> >
> > Less critical is the tool for removing the gland nut on the housing; a
> > pipe wrench or channel lock pliers will suffice, BUT the tool sure
> > makes things much easier. No way to make this tool, regrettably.
> >
> > Contact me off-list if you care to. I think I can help you.
> > (RubEric@aol.com
> >
> > Eric.
> >
>
> I admit I'm not specifically familiar with the A6 suspension. As I read
> your post it appears that the entire strut remains in place and the
> cartridge is pulled out the top. If so this is a HUGE improvement over the
> way it used to be on VW/Audi products.
>
> Alan
Alan:
That is correct - the strut housing, spring, upper spring seat, etc
need NOT to be removed to replace the strut cartridge.
Look at the top strut mount under the hood. There should be a plastic
triangular-shaped cover over the strut mount. There are three
self-locking nuts that attach the mount to car. (Slotted holes in the
mount are for camber adjustment. Mark the location before removing)
There is a larger single nut in the center of the mount that connects
the strut rod to the upper mount. You have to hold the the strut rod
with an allen wrench when loosening this nut. The allen socket in the
end of the rod is an uncommon size - 7 mm, I think - not found in most
allen wrench sets. Get one from sears. The nut itself is 'buried' in
the upper washer and needs a socket for removal. Hence the tool for
removing this nut is a deep socket with the side cut away. You insert
the allen wrench thru the resulting opening to hold the strut rod from
turning and loosen the nut with the socket.
Look at the condition of the upper strut mount rubber while you are
there although they seem to have good life expectancy. About $50 for
that part. Also examine the strut bellows - the rubber part that
protects the strut rod. This is important to protecting the polished
surface of the rod. If it is damaged, replace it. Less than $20.00 for
this part.
There was quite a good writeup in the AudiFans page but the url seems
to have expired. If you like, I can snail mail a copy.
Where are you located?
Don't hesitate to contact me for help.
Eric
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need to replace front struts.
wtrplnet wrote:
> >
> > Alan:
> >
> > Replacing the strut CARTRIDGE is an easy task. I can replace both of
> > them on an A6/S6 in less than half an hour. I think the OE cartridges
> > are about $65 ea.
> >
> > It is NOT necessary to remove the entire strut housing and it is NOT
> > necessary to remove the spring. Changing the cartridge involves
> > removing the upper strut bushing, loosening the 'gland' nut that holds
> > the cartridge in the strut housing and pulling the cartridge out of the
> > housing. It comes out straight up thru the opening left by removing the
> > upper strut bushing.
> >
> > Now, I do have the special tools for this. The more critical of the two
> > is the tool for removing the nut that holds the strut piston rod to the
> > strut bushing. I have made this tool several times by cutting the side
> > out of a deep socket of the correct size.
> >
> > Less critical is the tool for removing the gland nut on the housing; a
> > pipe wrench or channel lock pliers will suffice, BUT the tool sure
> > makes things much easier. No way to make this tool, regrettably.
> >
> > Contact me off-list if you care to. I think I can help you.
> > (RubEric@aol.com
> >
> > Eric.
> >
>
> I admit I'm not specifically familiar with the A6 suspension. As I read
> your post it appears that the entire strut remains in place and the
> cartridge is pulled out the top. If so this is a HUGE improvement over the
> way it used to be on VW/Audi products.
>
> Alan
Alan:
That is correct - the strut housing, spring, upper spring seat, etc
need NOT to be removed to replace the strut cartridge.
Look at the top strut mount under the hood. There should be a plastic
triangular-shaped cover over the strut mount. There are three
self-locking nuts that attach the mount to car. (Slotted holes in the
mount are for camber adjustment. Mark the location before removing)
There is a larger single nut in the center of the mount that connects
the strut rod to the upper mount. You have to hold the the strut rod
with an allen wrench when loosening this nut. The allen socket in the
end of the rod is an uncommon size - 7 mm, I think - not found in most
allen wrench sets. Get one from sears. The nut itself is 'buried' in
the upper washer and needs a socket for removal. Hence the tool for
removing this nut is a deep socket with the side cut away. You insert
the allen wrench thru the resulting opening to hold the strut rod from
turning and loosen the nut with the socket.
Look at the condition of the upper strut mount rubber while you are
there although they seem to have good life expectancy. About $50 for
that part. Also examine the strut bellows - the rubber part that
protects the strut rod. This is important to protecting the polished
surface of the rod. If it is damaged, replace it. Less than $20.00 for
this part.
There was quite a good writeup in the AudiFans page but the url seems
to have expired. If you like, I can snail mail a copy.
Where are you located?
Don't hesitate to contact me for help.
Eric
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need to replace front struts.
wtrplnet wrote:
> >
> > Alan:
> >
> > Replacing the strut CARTRIDGE is an easy task. I can replace both of
> > them on an A6/S6 in less than half an hour. I think the OE cartridges
> > are about $65 ea.
> >
> > It is NOT necessary to remove the entire strut housing and it is NOT
> > necessary to remove the spring. Changing the cartridge involves
> > removing the upper strut bushing, loosening the 'gland' nut that holds
> > the cartridge in the strut housing and pulling the cartridge out of the
> > housing. It comes out straight up thru the opening left by removing the
> > upper strut bushing.
> >
> > Now, I do have the special tools for this. The more critical of the two
> > is the tool for removing the nut that holds the strut piston rod to the
> > strut bushing. I have made this tool several times by cutting the side
> > out of a deep socket of the correct size.
> >
> > Less critical is the tool for removing the gland nut on the housing; a
> > pipe wrench or channel lock pliers will suffice, BUT the tool sure
> > makes things much easier. No way to make this tool, regrettably.
> >
> > Contact me off-list if you care to. I think I can help you.
> > (RubEric@aol.com
> >
> > Eric.
> >
>
> I admit I'm not specifically familiar with the A6 suspension. As I read
> your post it appears that the entire strut remains in place and the
> cartridge is pulled out the top. If so this is a HUGE improvement over the
> way it used to be on VW/Audi products.
>
> Alan
Alan:
That is correct - the strut housing, spring, upper spring seat, etc
need NOT to be removed to replace the strut cartridge.
Look at the top strut mount under the hood. There should be a plastic
triangular-shaped cover over the strut mount. There are three
self-locking nuts that attach the mount to car. (Slotted holes in the
mount are for camber adjustment. Mark the location before removing)
There is a larger single nut in the center of the mount that connects
the strut rod to the upper mount. You have to hold the the strut rod
with an allen wrench when loosening this nut. The allen socket in the
end of the rod is an uncommon size - 7 mm, I think - not found in most
allen wrench sets. Get one from sears. The nut itself is 'buried' in
the upper washer and needs a socket for removal. Hence the tool for
removing this nut is a deep socket with the side cut away. You insert
the allen wrench thru the resulting opening to hold the strut rod from
turning and loosen the nut with the socket.
Look at the condition of the upper strut mount rubber while you are
there although they seem to have good life expectancy. About $50 for
that part. Also examine the strut bellows - the rubber part that
protects the strut rod. This is important to protecting the polished
surface of the rod. If it is damaged, replace it. Less than $20.00 for
this part.
There was quite a good writeup in the AudiFans page but the url seems
to have expired. If you like, I can snail mail a copy.
Where are you located?
Don't hesitate to contact me for help.
Eric
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need to replace front struts.
wtrplnet wrote:
> >
> > Alan:
> >
> > Replacing the strut CARTRIDGE is an easy task. I can replace both of
> > them on an A6/S6 in less than half an hour. I think the OE cartridges
> > are about $65 ea.
> >
> > It is NOT necessary to remove the entire strut housing and it is NOT
> > necessary to remove the spring. Changing the cartridge involves
> > removing the upper strut bushing, loosening the 'gland' nut that holds
> > the cartridge in the strut housing and pulling the cartridge out of the
> > housing. It comes out straight up thru the opening left by removing the
> > upper strut bushing.
> >
> > Now, I do have the special tools for this. The more critical of the two
> > is the tool for removing the nut that holds the strut piston rod to the
> > strut bushing. I have made this tool several times by cutting the side
> > out of a deep socket of the correct size.
> >
> > Less critical is the tool for removing the gland nut on the housing; a
> > pipe wrench or channel lock pliers will suffice, BUT the tool sure
> > makes things much easier. No way to make this tool, regrettably.
> >
> > Contact me off-list if you care to. I think I can help you.
> > (RubEric@aol.com
> >
> > Eric.
> >
>
> I admit I'm not specifically familiar with the A6 suspension. As I read
> your post it appears that the entire strut remains in place and the
> cartridge is pulled out the top. If so this is a HUGE improvement over the
> way it used to be on VW/Audi products.
>
> Alan
Alan:
That is correct - the strut housing, spring, upper spring seat, etc
need NOT to be removed to replace the strut cartridge.
Look at the top strut mount under the hood. There should be a plastic
triangular-shaped cover over the strut mount. There are three
self-locking nuts that attach the mount to car. (Slotted holes in the
mount are for camber adjustment. Mark the location before removing)
There is a larger single nut in the center of the mount that connects
the strut rod to the upper mount. You have to hold the the strut rod
with an allen wrench when loosening this nut. The allen socket in the
end of the rod is an uncommon size - 7 mm, I think - not found in most
allen wrench sets. Get one from sears. The nut itself is 'buried' in
the upper washer and needs a socket for removal. Hence the tool for
removing this nut is a deep socket with the side cut away. You insert
the allen wrench thru the resulting opening to hold the strut rod from
turning and loosen the nut with the socket.
Look at the condition of the upper strut mount rubber while you are
there although they seem to have good life expectancy. About $50 for
that part. Also examine the strut bellows - the rubber part that
protects the strut rod. This is important to protecting the polished
surface of the rod. If it is damaged, replace it. Less than $20.00 for
this part.
There was quite a good writeup in the AudiFans page but the url seems
to have expired. If you like, I can snail mail a copy.
Where are you located?
Don't hesitate to contact me for help.
Eric
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need to replace front struts.
wtrplnet wrote:
> >
> > Alan:
> >
> > Replacing the strut CARTRIDGE is an easy task. I can replace both of
> > them on an A6/S6 in less than half an hour. I think the OE cartridges
> > are about $65 ea.
> >
> > It is NOT necessary to remove the entire strut housing and it is NOT
> > necessary to remove the spring. Changing the cartridge involves
> > removing the upper strut bushing, loosening the 'gland' nut that holds
> > the cartridge in the strut housing and pulling the cartridge out of the
> > housing. It comes out straight up thru the opening left by removing the
> > upper strut bushing.
> >
> > Now, I do have the special tools for this. The more critical of the two
> > is the tool for removing the nut that holds the strut piston rod to the
> > strut bushing. I have made this tool several times by cutting the side
> > out of a deep socket of the correct size.
> >
> > Less critical is the tool for removing the gland nut on the housing; a
> > pipe wrench or channel lock pliers will suffice, BUT the tool sure
> > makes things much easier. No way to make this tool, regrettably.
> >
> > Contact me off-list if you care to. I think I can help you.
> > (RubEric@aol.com
> >
> > Eric.
> >
>
> I admit I'm not specifically familiar with the A6 suspension. As I read
> your post it appears that the entire strut remains in place and the
> cartridge is pulled out the top. If so this is a HUGE improvement over the
> way it used to be on VW/Audi products.
>
> Alan
Alan:
That is correct - the strut housing, spring, upper spring seat, etc
need NOT to be removed to replace the strut cartridge.
Look at the top strut mount under the hood. There should be a plastic
triangular-shaped cover over the strut mount. There are three
self-locking nuts that attach the mount to car. (Slotted holes in the
mount are for camber adjustment. Mark the location before removing)
There is a larger single nut in the center of the mount that connects
the strut rod to the upper mount. You have to hold the the strut rod
with an allen wrench when loosening this nut. The allen socket in the
end of the rod is an uncommon size - 7 mm, I think - not found in most
allen wrench sets. Get one from sears. The nut itself is 'buried' in
the upper washer and needs a socket for removal. Hence the tool for
removing this nut is a deep socket with the side cut away. You insert
the allen wrench thru the resulting opening to hold the strut rod from
turning and loosen the nut with the socket.
Look at the condition of the upper strut mount rubber while you are
there although they seem to have good life expectancy. About $50 for
that part. Also examine the strut bellows - the rubber part that
protects the strut rod. This is important to protecting the polished
surface of the rod. If it is damaged, replace it. Less than $20.00 for
this part.
There was quite a good writeup in the AudiFans page but the url seems
to have expired. If you like, I can snail mail a copy.
Where are you located?
Don't hesitate to contact me for help.
Eric
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Need to replace front struts.
"RubEric" <RubEric@aol.com> wrote in message
news:1163531796.353526.306650@h48g2000cwc.googlegr oups.com...
>
> wtrplnet wrote:
>> >
>> > Alan:
>> >
>> > Replacing the strut CARTRIDGE is an easy task. I can replace both of
>> > them on an A6/S6 in less than half an hour. I think the OE cartridges
>> > are about $65 ea.
>> >
>> > It is NOT necessary to remove the entire strut housing and it is NOT
>> > necessary to remove the spring. Changing the cartridge involves
>> > removing the upper strut bushing, loosening the 'gland' nut that holds
>> > the cartridge in the strut housing and pulling the cartridge out of the
>> > housing. It comes out straight up thru the opening left by removing the
>> > upper strut bushing.
>> >
>> > Now, I do have the special tools for this. The more critical of the two
>> > is the tool for removing the nut that holds the strut piston rod to the
>> > strut bushing. I have made this tool several times by cutting the side
>> > out of a deep socket of the correct size.
>> >
>> > Less critical is the tool for removing the gland nut on the housing; a
>> > pipe wrench or channel lock pliers will suffice, BUT the tool sure
>> > makes things much easier. No way to make this tool, regrettably.
>> >
>> > Contact me off-list if you care to. I think I can help you.
>> > (RubEric@aol.com
>> >
>> > Eric.
>> >
>>
>> I admit I'm not specifically familiar with the A6 suspension. As I read
>> your post it appears that the entire strut remains in place and the
>> cartridge is pulled out the top. If so this is a HUGE improvement over
>> the
>> way it used to be on VW/Audi products.
>>
>> Alan
>
> Alan:
>
> That is correct - the strut housing, spring, upper spring seat, etc
> need NOT to be removed to replace the strut cartridge.
>
> Look at the top strut mount under the hood. There should be a plastic
> triangular-shaped cover over the strut mount. There are three
> self-locking nuts that attach the mount to car. (Slotted holes in the
> mount are for camber adjustment. Mark the location before removing)
> There is a larger single nut in the center of the mount that connects
> the strut rod to the upper mount. You have to hold the the strut rod
> with an allen wrench when loosening this nut. The allen socket in the
> end of the rod is an uncommon size - 7 mm, I think - not found in most
> allen wrench sets. Get one from sears. The nut itself is 'buried' in
> the upper washer and needs a socket for removal. Hence the tool for
> removing this nut is a deep socket with the side cut away. You insert
> the allen wrench thru the resulting opening to hold the strut rod from
> turning and loosen the nut with the socket.
>
> Look at the condition of the upper strut mount rubber while you are
> there although they seem to have good life expectancy. About $50 for
> that part. Also examine the strut bellows - the rubber part that
> protects the strut rod. This is important to protecting the polished
> surface of the rod. If it is damaged, replace it. Less than $20.00 for
> this part.
>
>
> There was quite a good writeup in the AudiFans page but the url seems
> to have expired. If you like, I can snail mail a copy.
>
> Where are you located?
>
> Don't hesitate to contact me for help.
>
> Eric
>
Eric, I'm not the original poster, I just gave my 2 cents worth mainly about
being careful if using a spring compressor. I've replaced strut cartridges
many times, years ago, when it was a LOT more work! I'll use your advice
when I inherit my mothers A6 and put a set of Bilsteins on it.
Alan