Don Turner wrote:
> "Dave" <dave@nobody.com> wrote in message
> news:%CQee.20430$Y46.14728@newsfe1-win.ntli.net...
>
>>>I've got a problem with the gf's 2001 Audi A3. The instrument cluster is
>>>completely dead first thing in the morning when the car is cold, but
>>>after about 20 minutes of driving the whole thing pops into life. The car
>>>starts up fine, its just that you're driving with a completely inert
>>>display.. no speedo, fuel gauges, temp, clock etc..
>>
>>Is it only when the weather's cold or when the car's cold? It sounds to me
>>like a bad connection that gets made when the area heats up. Possibly a
>>cracked track or dry solder joint on the circuit board. I doubt it needs a
>>new panel but possibly a bit diagnosis with a multimeter and then a simple
>>fix.
>>
>>Try putting it in the fridge or freezer for a few hours then check
>>connectivity on the PCB tracks. Multimeters are pretty cheap from Maplins
>>or similar. Soldering is easy but there's a knack so if you're not
>>confident, get someone who is.
>>
>>Alternatively you could try sourcing a 2nd hand cluster from a similar car
>>to test if it's the cluster or not.
>
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> It only happens when the weather is cold. For example when I park over-night
> in a garage which is heated the cluster works first time. Also if I start
> the car for the first time when its been sitting in the sun (mid afternoon)
> it is also fine.
>
> You may be right with respect to it being a bad solder joint or track
> however I would do more damage than good if I attempted to find it. I opened
> up the cluster earlier and there are dozens of surface mounted chips with
> tiny solder joints.
>
> Does anyone know of a good circuit board electrician in London or the home
> counties??
>
> Cheers
> Don
>
>
Just get a new one from a scrapper.

Andy

 

Don Turner wrote:
> "Dave" <dave@nobody.com> wrote in message
> news:%CQee.20430$Y46.14728@newsfe1-win.ntli.net...
>
>>>I've got a problem with the gf's 2001 Audi A3. The instrument cluster is
>>>completely dead first thing in the morning when the car is cold, but
>>>after about 20 minutes of driving the whole thing pops into life. The car
>>>starts up fine, its just that you're driving with a completely inert
>>>display.. no speedo, fuel gauges, temp, clock etc..
>>
>>Is it only when the weather's cold or when the car's cold? It sounds to me
>>like a bad connection that gets made when the area heats up. Possibly a
>>cracked track or dry solder joint on the circuit board. I doubt it needs a
>>new panel but possibly a bit diagnosis with a multimeter and then a simple
>>fix.
>>
>>Try putting it in the fridge or freezer for a few hours then check
>>connectivity on the PCB tracks. Multimeters are pretty cheap from Maplins
>>or similar. Soldering is easy but there's a knack so if you're not
>>confident, get someone who is.
>>
>>Alternatively you could try sourcing a 2nd hand cluster from a similar car
>>to test if it's the cluster or not.
>
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> It only happens when the weather is cold. For example when I park over-night
> in a garage which is heated the cluster works first time. Also if I start
> the car for the first time when its been sitting in the sun (mid afternoon)
> it is also fine.
>
> You may be right with respect to it being a bad solder joint or track
> however I would do more damage than good if I attempted to find it. I opened
> up the cluster earlier and there are dozens of surface mounted chips with
> tiny solder joints.
>
> Does anyone know of a good circuit board electrician in London or the home
> counties??
>
> Cheers
> Don
>
>
Just get a new one from a scrapper.

Andy

 

Don Turner wrote:
> "Dave" <dave@nobody.com> wrote in message
> news:%CQee.20430$Y46.14728@newsfe1-win.ntli.net...
>
>>>I've got a problem with the gf's 2001 Audi A3. The instrument cluster is
>>>completely dead first thing in the morning when the car is cold, but
>>>after about 20 minutes of driving the whole thing pops into life. The car
>>>starts up fine, its just that you're driving with a completely inert
>>>display.. no speedo, fuel gauges, temp, clock etc..
>>
>>Is it only when the weather's cold or when the car's cold? It sounds to me
>>like a bad connection that gets made when the area heats up. Possibly a
>>cracked track or dry solder joint on the circuit board. I doubt it needs a
>>new panel but possibly a bit diagnosis with a multimeter and then a simple
>>fix.
>>
>>Try putting it in the fridge or freezer for a few hours then check
>>connectivity on the PCB tracks. Multimeters are pretty cheap from Maplins
>>or similar. Soldering is easy but there's a knack so if you're not
>>confident, get someone who is.
>>
>>Alternatively you could try sourcing a 2nd hand cluster from a similar car
>>to test if it's the cluster or not.
>
>
> Hi Dave,
>
> It only happens when the weather is cold. For example when I park over-night
> in a garage which is heated the cluster works first time. Also if I start
> the car for the first time when its been sitting in the sun (mid afternoon)
> it is also fine.
>
> You may be right with respect to it being a bad solder joint or track
> however I would do more damage than good if I attempted to find it. I opened
> up the cluster earlier and there are dozens of surface mounted chips with
> tiny solder joints.
>
> Does anyone know of a good circuit board electrician in London or the home
> counties??
>
> Cheers
> Don
>
>
Just get a new one from a scrapper.

Andy

 

> Just get a new one from a scrapper.

I've looked into this and assuming I could find the exact same model I would
need to get the mileage corrected to the current mileage (around £120) and
then I would need to take the car down to Audi for them to reprogram the
replacement since the engine immobiliser is integrated into the instrument
cluster.

So I would much rather try and salvage what I've got first.

Cheers
Don

 

> Just get a new one from a scrapper.

I've looked into this and assuming I could find the exact same model I would
need to get the mileage corrected to the current mileage (around £120) and
then I would need to take the car down to Audi for them to reprogram the
replacement since the engine immobiliser is integrated into the instrument
cluster.

So I would much rather try and salvage what I've got first.

Cheers
Don

 

> Just get a new one from a scrapper.

I've looked into this and assuming I could find the exact same model I would
need to get the mileage corrected to the current mileage (around £120) and
then I would need to take the car down to Audi for them to reprogram the
replacement since the engine immobiliser is integrated into the instrument
cluster.

So I would much rather try and salvage what I've got first.

Cheers
Don

 

Don Turner wrote:
>>Just get a new one from a scrapper.
>
>
> I've looked into this and assuming I could find the exact same model I would
> need to get the mileage corrected to the current mileage (around £120) and
> then I would need to take the car down to Audi for them to reprogram the
> replacement since the engine immobiliser is integrated into the instrument
> cluster.
>
> So I would much rather try and salvage what I've got first.
>
> Cheers
> Don

Could the problem be in the grounding of the cluster to the body and / or
grounding of the body to the engine? Check gounds in the engine compartment
where there are wide temperature swings.

 

Don Turner wrote:
>>Just get a new one from a scrapper.
>
>
> I've looked into this and assuming I could find the exact same model I would
> need to get the mileage corrected to the current mileage (around £120) and
> then I would need to take the car down to Audi for them to reprogram the
> replacement since the engine immobiliser is integrated into the instrument
> cluster.
>
> So I would much rather try and salvage what I've got first.
>
> Cheers
> Don

Could the problem be in the grounding of the cluster to the body and / or
grounding of the body to the engine? Check gounds in the engine compartment
where there are wide temperature swings.

 

Don Turner wrote:
>>Just get a new one from a scrapper.
>
>
> I've looked into this and assuming I could find the exact same model I would
> need to get the mileage corrected to the current mileage (around £120) and
> then I would need to take the car down to Audi for them to reprogram the
> replacement since the engine immobiliser is integrated into the instrument
> cluster.
>
> So I would much rather try and salvage what I've got first.
>
> Cheers
> Don

Could the problem be in the grounding of the cluster to the body and / or
grounding of the body to the engine? Check gounds in the engine compartment
where there are wide temperature swings.

 

It's much more likely to be a bad solder joint or a fractured pcb track,
it's vibration that kills them. If you can use the car with the pcb
accessible, then gently flex the board in various directions to see if you
can make the fault come and go. By flexing smaller portions of the board
you may be able to identify an approximate area to investigate with a
magnifying glass. Another method is to get some electronic freezer spray
(that water pipe freezer stuff is OK though) and a hair drier to temperature
cycle areas of the pcb. You still need to resolder though.

A bodge may be to permanently flex the board with something jammed against
it in the appropriate direction. Then it's fingers crossed.



"Tony" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:117o74jrtf57f39@corp.supernews.com...
>
>
> Don Turner wrote:
>>>Just get a new one from a scrapper.
>>
>>
>> I've looked into this and assuming I could find the exact same model I
>> would need to get the mileage corrected to the current mileage (around
>> £120) and then I would need to take the car down to Audi for them to
>> reprogram the replacement since the engine immobiliser is integrated into
>> the instrument cluster.
>>
>> So I would much rather try and salvage what I've got first.
>>
>> Cheers
>> Don
>
> Could the problem be in the grounding of the cluster to the body and / or
> grounding of the body to the engine? Check gounds in the engine
> compartment where there are wide temperature swings.