audi tt, 1.8 T, 225 HP - rpm variatins at deceleration and other problems
06-07-2007 | 03:32 PM
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: audi tt, 1.8 T, 225 HP - rpm variatins at deceleration and otherproblems
florinman@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jun 4, 10:30 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
>> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Hi everybody,
>>> - why the car is producing a rattling noise while decelerating in the
>>> air filter area? I believe that it is relared with the "cut-off" valve
>>> but how can I decide it is broken, what experiments should I make,
>>> what data in VAG-COM should I follow?
>>> - why is the rpm droping when I take the foot off the pedal?
>>> - is the new debitmeter broken, or is the old one but in such manner
>>> that it hides some of the car's vices?
>>> - what do you think I should do to solve the problem or make it clear?
>> The debitmeter that you refer to is not a term that I have heard in the
>> US but a Google seems to indicate that it is the Diverter Valve that you
>> are referring to. The DV may be at fault causing boost problems but
>> probably not the cause of most of your issues.
>>
>> A rattle under deceleration is often associated with a failed Waste Gate
>> actuator which is part of the turbo but can be replaced separetly for
>> about $180 US parts cost. If this is the problem you would experience
>> loss of boost under acceleration but it would not be the reason that you
>> are getting codes.
>>
>> I would guess that you had a loose connection of the O2 sensor. Crimped
>> wire connection are preferred over soldered when replacing with generic.
>>
>> I don't remember you saying that you replaced the MAF. If not that is
>> the first thing I would suggest and then see what codes you get. The MAF
>> can be cleaned but replacing it is a more certain fix.
>
>
> All appologies! By debitmeter I was reffering to MAF!
> I have placed back the old MAF and the errors dissapeard. The
> turations still drop though... and the sound is still scratching my
> nerves.
> So you are saying that is the "Waste Gate Actuator"... Is this the
> term audi uses as well for this part? Well I will look for this part,
> see where is located but
> meanwhile I have ordered a Diverter Valve because someone told me that
> the sound can be associated with DV. What do you think about that?
>
>
Good that replacing the MAF corrected the codes.
"Waste Gate Actuator" is the term that is used in the US and I would
guess most other English speaking countries. It is an assembly that is
attached to the side of the turbo and is usually considered a part of
the turbo but can be changed separetly. Replacing it requires remocing
the turbo. I was just guessing that this might be your problem. Be sure
to diagnose the problem before spending money and time on it.
A failed waste gate actuator can be diagnosed visually. With the engine
off, look down the exhaust side of the engine and see the turbo. Between
the turbo and the engine you will just barely be able tyo see a shiny
steel rod running forward and back. That it the actuator rod. Use a
stick to reach down to push on the shiney rod Try to move it back and
forth. If it moves at all it is bad otherwise it is probably fine.
Changing the DV is a good idea and may help. It would have been a good
idea to pressure test the system for leaks and observe boost with a gage
to see if you have a problem with it before buying parts.
Let us know your progress.
06-07-2007 | 03:32 PM
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: audi tt, 1.8 T, 225 HP - rpm variatins at deceleration and otherproblems
florinman@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jun 4, 10:30 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
>> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Hi everybody,
>>> - why the car is producing a rattling noise while decelerating in the
>>> air filter area? I believe that it is relared with the "cut-off" valve
>>> but how can I decide it is broken, what experiments should I make,
>>> what data in VAG-COM should I follow?
>>> - why is the rpm droping when I take the foot off the pedal?
>>> - is the new debitmeter broken, or is the old one but in such manner
>>> that it hides some of the car's vices?
>>> - what do you think I should do to solve the problem or make it clear?
>> The debitmeter that you refer to is not a term that I have heard in the
>> US but a Google seems to indicate that it is the Diverter Valve that you
>> are referring to. The DV may be at fault causing boost problems but
>> probably not the cause of most of your issues.
>>
>> A rattle under deceleration is often associated with a failed Waste Gate
>> actuator which is part of the turbo but can be replaced separetly for
>> about $180 US parts cost. If this is the problem you would experience
>> loss of boost under acceleration but it would not be the reason that you
>> are getting codes.
>>
>> I would guess that you had a loose connection of the O2 sensor. Crimped
>> wire connection are preferred over soldered when replacing with generic.
>>
>> I don't remember you saying that you replaced the MAF. If not that is
>> the first thing I would suggest and then see what codes you get. The MAF
>> can be cleaned but replacing it is a more certain fix.
>
>
> All appologies! By debitmeter I was reffering to MAF!
> I have placed back the old MAF and the errors dissapeard. The
> turations still drop though... and the sound is still scratching my
> nerves.
> So you are saying that is the "Waste Gate Actuator"... Is this the
> term audi uses as well for this part? Well I will look for this part,
> see where is located but
> meanwhile I have ordered a Diverter Valve because someone told me that
> the sound can be associated with DV. What do you think about that?
>
>
Good that replacing the MAF corrected the codes.
"Waste Gate Actuator" is the term that is used in the US and I would
guess most other English speaking countries. It is an assembly that is
attached to the side of the turbo and is usually considered a part of
the turbo but can be changed separetly. Replacing it requires remocing
the turbo. I was just guessing that this might be your problem. Be sure
to diagnose the problem before spending money and time on it.
A failed waste gate actuator can be diagnosed visually. With the engine
off, look down the exhaust side of the engine and see the turbo. Between
the turbo and the engine you will just barely be able tyo see a shiny
steel rod running forward and back. That it the actuator rod. Use a
stick to reach down to push on the shiney rod Try to move it back and
forth. If it moves at all it is bad otherwise it is probably fine.
Changing the DV is a good idea and may help. It would have been a good
idea to pressure test the system for leaks and observe boost with a gage
to see if you have a problem with it before buying parts.
Let us know your progress.
06-07-2007 | 03:32 PM
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: audi tt, 1.8 T, 225 HP - rpm variatins at deceleration and otherproblems
florinman@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jun 4, 10:30 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
>> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> Hi everybody,
>>> - why the car is producing a rattling noise while decelerating in the
>>> air filter area? I believe that it is relared with the "cut-off" valve
>>> but how can I decide it is broken, what experiments should I make,
>>> what data in VAG-COM should I follow?
>>> - why is the rpm droping when I take the foot off the pedal?
>>> - is the new debitmeter broken, or is the old one but in such manner
>>> that it hides some of the car's vices?
>>> - what do you think I should do to solve the problem or make it clear?
>> The debitmeter that you refer to is not a term that I have heard in the
>> US but a Google seems to indicate that it is the Diverter Valve that you
>> are referring to. The DV may be at fault causing boost problems but
>> probably not the cause of most of your issues.
>>
>> A rattle under deceleration is often associated with a failed Waste Gate
>> actuator which is part of the turbo but can be replaced separetly for
>> about $180 US parts cost. If this is the problem you would experience
>> loss of boost under acceleration but it would not be the reason that you
>> are getting codes.
>>
>> I would guess that you had a loose connection of the O2 sensor. Crimped
>> wire connection are preferred over soldered when replacing with generic.
>>
>> I don't remember you saying that you replaced the MAF. If not that is
>> the first thing I would suggest and then see what codes you get. The MAF
>> can be cleaned but replacing it is a more certain fix.
>
>
> All appologies! By debitmeter I was reffering to MAF!
> I have placed back the old MAF and the errors dissapeard. The
> turations still drop though... and the sound is still scratching my
> nerves.
> So you are saying that is the "Waste Gate Actuator"... Is this the
> term audi uses as well for this part? Well I will look for this part,
> see where is located but
> meanwhile I have ordered a Diverter Valve because someone told me that
> the sound can be associated with DV. What do you think about that?
>
>
Good that replacing the MAF corrected the codes.
"Waste Gate Actuator" is the term that is used in the US and I would
guess most other English speaking countries. It is an assembly that is
attached to the side of the turbo and is usually considered a part of
the turbo but can be changed separetly. Replacing it requires remocing
the turbo. I was just guessing that this might be your problem. Be sure
to diagnose the problem before spending money and time on it.
A failed waste gate actuator can be diagnosed visually. With the engine
off, look down the exhaust side of the engine and see the turbo. Between
the turbo and the engine you will just barely be able tyo see a shiny
steel rod running forward and back. That it the actuator rod. Use a
stick to reach down to push on the shiney rod Try to move it back and
forth. If it moves at all it is bad otherwise it is probably fine.
Changing the DV is a good idea and may help. It would have been a good
idea to pressure test the system for leaks and observe boost with a gage
to see if you have a problem with it before buying parts.
Let us know your progress.
06-18-2007 | 12:01 PM
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: audi tt, 1.8 T, 225 HP - rpm variatins at deceleration and other problems
On Jun 7, 10:32 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Jun 4, 10:30 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
> >> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> >>> Hi everybody,
> >>> - why the car is producing a rattling noise while decelerating in the
> >>> air filter area? I believe that it is relared with the "cut-off" valve
> >>> but how can I decide it is broken, what experiments should I make,
> >>> what data in VAG-COM should I follow?
> >>> - why is the rpm droping when I take the foot off the pedal?
> >>> - is the new debitmeter broken, or is the old one but in such manner
> >>> that it hides some of the car's vices?
> >>> - what do you think I should do to solve the problem or make it clear?
> >> The debitmeter that you refer to is not a term that I have heard in the
> >> US but a Google seems to indicate that it is the Diverter Valve that you
> >> are referring to. The DV may be at fault causing boost problems but
> >> probably not the cause of most of your issues.
>
> >> A rattle under deceleration is often associated with a failed Waste Gate
> >> actuator which is part of the turbo but can be replaced separetly for
> >> about $180 US parts cost. If this is the problem you would experience
> >> loss of boost underaccelerationbut it would not be the reason that you
> >> are getting codes.
>
> >> I would guess that you had a loose connection of the O2 sensor. Crimped
> >> wire connection are preferred over soldered when replacing with generic.
>
> >> I don't remember you saying that you replaced the MAF. If not that is
> >> the first thing I would suggest and then see what codes you get. The MAF
> >> can be cleaned but replacing it is a more certain fix.
>
> > All appologies! By debitmeter I was reffering to MAF!
> > I have placed back the old MAF and the errors dissapeard. The
> > turations stilldropthough... and the sound is still scratching my
> > nerves.
> > So you are saying that is the "Waste Gate Actuator"... Is this the
> > termaudiuses as well for this part? Well I will look for this part,
> > see where is located but
> > meanwhile I have ordered a Diverter Valve because someone told me that
> > the sound can be associated with DV. What do you think about that?
>
> Good that replacing the MAF corrected the codes.
>
> "Waste Gate Actuator" is the term that is used in the US and I would
> guess most other English speaking countries. It is an assembly that is
> attached to the side of the turbo and is usually considered a part of
> the turbo but can be changed separetly. Replacing it requires remocing
> the turbo. I was just guessing that this might be your problem. Be sure
> to diagnose the problem before spending money and time on it.
>
> A failed waste gate actuator can be diagnosed visually. With the engine
> off, look down the exhaust side of the engine and see the turbo. Between
> the turbo and the engine you will just barely be able tyo see a shiny
> steel rod running forward and back. That it the actuator rod. Use a
> stick to reach down to push on the shiney rod Try to move it back and
> forth. If it moves at all it is bad otherwise it is probably fine.
>
> Changing the DV is a good idea and may help. It would have been a good
> idea to pressure test the system for leaks and observe boost with a gage
> to see if you have a problem with it before buying parts.
>
> Let us know your progress.
Hello,
Well I have finally replace the DV. The resoults are good: the noise
dissapeared or at least is hardly noticeable and the rpm drops are now
smaller and rarely appear.
But... to be able to use the car untill I got the DV I have put back
the old MAF and I have returned the new one (I descriebed the problems
related with the new MAF in my first post). Since then I experience a
engine power loss. I am still hearing the turbo but the car lacks
power.
Please see the VAG-COM log file in which I have also generated a
graph: http://www.yousendit.com/download/WF...YTIrV3cwTVE9PQ
What I suppose is that there is a problem with the turbo pressure
because the actual pressure (@Intercooler) (with the red color), is
allways less than requested presure - yellow. In fact the pressure
only incerases if I press at once and very hard the gas pedeal. If I
press it gredualy nothing happens. Is this normal? With blue are the
rpm. With green are the verry slow values recorded by the MAF. What do
you think about these measurements?
> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Jun 4, 10:30 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
> >> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> >>> Hi everybody,
> >>> - why the car is producing a rattling noise while decelerating in the
> >>> air filter area? I believe that it is relared with the "cut-off" valve
> >>> but how can I decide it is broken, what experiments should I make,
> >>> what data in VAG-COM should I follow?
> >>> - why is the rpm droping when I take the foot off the pedal?
> >>> - is the new debitmeter broken, or is the old one but in such manner
> >>> that it hides some of the car's vices?
> >>> - what do you think I should do to solve the problem or make it clear?
> >> The debitmeter that you refer to is not a term that I have heard in the
> >> US but a Google seems to indicate that it is the Diverter Valve that you
> >> are referring to. The DV may be at fault causing boost problems but
> >> probably not the cause of most of your issues.
>
> >> A rattle under deceleration is often associated with a failed Waste Gate
> >> actuator which is part of the turbo but can be replaced separetly for
> >> about $180 US parts cost. If this is the problem you would experience
> >> loss of boost underaccelerationbut it would not be the reason that you
> >> are getting codes.
>
> >> I would guess that you had a loose connection of the O2 sensor. Crimped
> >> wire connection are preferred over soldered when replacing with generic.
>
> >> I don't remember you saying that you replaced the MAF. If not that is
> >> the first thing I would suggest and then see what codes you get. The MAF
> >> can be cleaned but replacing it is a more certain fix.
>
> > All appologies! By debitmeter I was reffering to MAF!
> > I have placed back the old MAF and the errors dissapeard. The
> > turations stilldropthough... and the sound is still scratching my
> > nerves.
> > So you are saying that is the "Waste Gate Actuator"... Is this the
> > termaudiuses as well for this part? Well I will look for this part,
> > see where is located but
> > meanwhile I have ordered a Diverter Valve because someone told me that
> > the sound can be associated with DV. What do you think about that?
>
> Good that replacing the MAF corrected the codes.
>
> "Waste Gate Actuator" is the term that is used in the US and I would
> guess most other English speaking countries. It is an assembly that is
> attached to the side of the turbo and is usually considered a part of
> the turbo but can be changed separetly. Replacing it requires remocing
> the turbo. I was just guessing that this might be your problem. Be sure
> to diagnose the problem before spending money and time on it.
>
> A failed waste gate actuator can be diagnosed visually. With the engine
> off, look down the exhaust side of the engine and see the turbo. Between
> the turbo and the engine you will just barely be able tyo see a shiny
> steel rod running forward and back. That it the actuator rod. Use a
> stick to reach down to push on the shiney rod Try to move it back and
> forth. If it moves at all it is bad otherwise it is probably fine.
>
> Changing the DV is a good idea and may help. It would have been a good
> idea to pressure test the system for leaks and observe boost with a gage
> to see if you have a problem with it before buying parts.
>
> Let us know your progress.
Hello,
Well I have finally replace the DV. The resoults are good: the noise
dissapeared or at least is hardly noticeable and the rpm drops are now
smaller and rarely appear.
But... to be able to use the car untill I got the DV I have put back
the old MAF and I have returned the new one (I descriebed the problems
related with the new MAF in my first post). Since then I experience a
engine power loss. I am still hearing the turbo but the car lacks
power.
Please see the VAG-COM log file in which I have also generated a
graph: http://www.yousendit.com/download/WF...YTIrV3cwTVE9PQ
What I suppose is that there is a problem with the turbo pressure
because the actual pressure (@Intercooler) (with the red color), is
allways less than requested presure - yellow. In fact the pressure
only incerases if I press at once and very hard the gas pedeal. If I
press it gredualy nothing happens. Is this normal? With blue are the
rpm. With green are the verry slow values recorded by the MAF. What do
you think about these measurements?
06-18-2007 | 12:01 PM
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: audi tt, 1.8 T, 225 HP - rpm variatins at deceleration and other problems
On Jun 7, 10:32 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Jun 4, 10:30 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
> >> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> >>> Hi everybody,
> >>> - why the car is producing a rattling noise while decelerating in the
> >>> air filter area? I believe that it is relared with the "cut-off" valve
> >>> but how can I decide it is broken, what experiments should I make,
> >>> what data in VAG-COM should I follow?
> >>> - why is the rpm droping when I take the foot off the pedal?
> >>> - is the new debitmeter broken, or is the old one but in such manner
> >>> that it hides some of the car's vices?
> >>> - what do you think I should do to solve the problem or make it clear?
> >> The debitmeter that you refer to is not a term that I have heard in the
> >> US but a Google seems to indicate that it is the Diverter Valve that you
> >> are referring to. The DV may be at fault causing boost problems but
> >> probably not the cause of most of your issues.
>
> >> A rattle under deceleration is often associated with a failed Waste Gate
> >> actuator which is part of the turbo but can be replaced separetly for
> >> about $180 US parts cost. If this is the problem you would experience
> >> loss of boost underaccelerationbut it would not be the reason that you
> >> are getting codes.
>
> >> I would guess that you had a loose connection of the O2 sensor. Crimped
> >> wire connection are preferred over soldered when replacing with generic.
>
> >> I don't remember you saying that you replaced the MAF. If not that is
> >> the first thing I would suggest and then see what codes you get. The MAF
> >> can be cleaned but replacing it is a more certain fix.
>
> > All appologies! By debitmeter I was reffering to MAF!
> > I have placed back the old MAF and the errors dissapeard. The
> > turations stilldropthough... and the sound is still scratching my
> > nerves.
> > So you are saying that is the "Waste Gate Actuator"... Is this the
> > termaudiuses as well for this part? Well I will look for this part,
> > see where is located but
> > meanwhile I have ordered a Diverter Valve because someone told me that
> > the sound can be associated with DV. What do you think about that?
>
> Good that replacing the MAF corrected the codes.
>
> "Waste Gate Actuator" is the term that is used in the US and I would
> guess most other English speaking countries. It is an assembly that is
> attached to the side of the turbo and is usually considered a part of
> the turbo but can be changed separetly. Replacing it requires remocing
> the turbo. I was just guessing that this might be your problem. Be sure
> to diagnose the problem before spending money and time on it.
>
> A failed waste gate actuator can be diagnosed visually. With the engine
> off, look down the exhaust side of the engine and see the turbo. Between
> the turbo and the engine you will just barely be able tyo see a shiny
> steel rod running forward and back. That it the actuator rod. Use a
> stick to reach down to push on the shiney rod Try to move it back and
> forth. If it moves at all it is bad otherwise it is probably fine.
>
> Changing the DV is a good idea and may help. It would have been a good
> idea to pressure test the system for leaks and observe boost with a gage
> to see if you have a problem with it before buying parts.
>
> Let us know your progress.
Hello,
Well I have finally replace the DV. The resoults are good: the noise
dissapeared or at least is hardly noticeable and the rpm drops are now
smaller and rarely appear.
But... to be able to use the car untill I got the DV I have put back
the old MAF and I have returned the new one (I descriebed the problems
related with the new MAF in my first post). Since then I experience a
engine power loss. I am still hearing the turbo but the car lacks
power.
Please see the VAG-COM log file in which I have also generated a
graph: http://www.yousendit.com/download/WF...YTIrV3cwTVE9PQ
What I suppose is that there is a problem with the turbo pressure
because the actual pressure (@Intercooler) (with the red color), is
allways less than requested presure - yellow. In fact the pressure
only incerases if I press at once and very hard the gas pedeal. If I
press it gredualy nothing happens. Is this normal? With blue are the
rpm. With green are the verry slow values recorded by the MAF. What do
you think about these measurements?
> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Jun 4, 10:30 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
> >> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> >>> Hi everybody,
> >>> - why the car is producing a rattling noise while decelerating in the
> >>> air filter area? I believe that it is relared with the "cut-off" valve
> >>> but how can I decide it is broken, what experiments should I make,
> >>> what data in VAG-COM should I follow?
> >>> - why is the rpm droping when I take the foot off the pedal?
> >>> - is the new debitmeter broken, or is the old one but in such manner
> >>> that it hides some of the car's vices?
> >>> - what do you think I should do to solve the problem or make it clear?
> >> The debitmeter that you refer to is not a term that I have heard in the
> >> US but a Google seems to indicate that it is the Diverter Valve that you
> >> are referring to. The DV may be at fault causing boost problems but
> >> probably not the cause of most of your issues.
>
> >> A rattle under deceleration is often associated with a failed Waste Gate
> >> actuator which is part of the turbo but can be replaced separetly for
> >> about $180 US parts cost. If this is the problem you would experience
> >> loss of boost underaccelerationbut it would not be the reason that you
> >> are getting codes.
>
> >> I would guess that you had a loose connection of the O2 sensor. Crimped
> >> wire connection are preferred over soldered when replacing with generic.
>
> >> I don't remember you saying that you replaced the MAF. If not that is
> >> the first thing I would suggest and then see what codes you get. The MAF
> >> can be cleaned but replacing it is a more certain fix.
>
> > All appologies! By debitmeter I was reffering to MAF!
> > I have placed back the old MAF and the errors dissapeard. The
> > turations stilldropthough... and the sound is still scratching my
> > nerves.
> > So you are saying that is the "Waste Gate Actuator"... Is this the
> > termaudiuses as well for this part? Well I will look for this part,
> > see where is located but
> > meanwhile I have ordered a Diverter Valve because someone told me that
> > the sound can be associated with DV. What do you think about that?
>
> Good that replacing the MAF corrected the codes.
>
> "Waste Gate Actuator" is the term that is used in the US and I would
> guess most other English speaking countries. It is an assembly that is
> attached to the side of the turbo and is usually considered a part of
> the turbo but can be changed separetly. Replacing it requires remocing
> the turbo. I was just guessing that this might be your problem. Be sure
> to diagnose the problem before spending money and time on it.
>
> A failed waste gate actuator can be diagnosed visually. With the engine
> off, look down the exhaust side of the engine and see the turbo. Between
> the turbo and the engine you will just barely be able tyo see a shiny
> steel rod running forward and back. That it the actuator rod. Use a
> stick to reach down to push on the shiney rod Try to move it back and
> forth. If it moves at all it is bad otherwise it is probably fine.
>
> Changing the DV is a good idea and may help. It would have been a good
> idea to pressure test the system for leaks and observe boost with a gage
> to see if you have a problem with it before buying parts.
>
> Let us know your progress.
Hello,
Well I have finally replace the DV. The resoults are good: the noise
dissapeared or at least is hardly noticeable and the rpm drops are now
smaller and rarely appear.
But... to be able to use the car untill I got the DV I have put back
the old MAF and I have returned the new one (I descriebed the problems
related with the new MAF in my first post). Since then I experience a
engine power loss. I am still hearing the turbo but the car lacks
power.
Please see the VAG-COM log file in which I have also generated a
graph: http://www.yousendit.com/download/WF...YTIrV3cwTVE9PQ
What I suppose is that there is a problem with the turbo pressure
because the actual pressure (@Intercooler) (with the red color), is
allways less than requested presure - yellow. In fact the pressure
only incerases if I press at once and very hard the gas pedeal. If I
press it gredualy nothing happens. Is this normal? With blue are the
rpm. With green are the verry slow values recorded by the MAF. What do
you think about these measurements?
06-18-2007 | 12:01 PM
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: audi tt, 1.8 T, 225 HP - rpm variatins at deceleration and other problems
On Jun 7, 10:32 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Jun 4, 10:30 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
> >> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> >>> Hi everybody,
> >>> - why the car is producing a rattling noise while decelerating in the
> >>> air filter area? I believe that it is relared with the "cut-off" valve
> >>> but how can I decide it is broken, what experiments should I make,
> >>> what data in VAG-COM should I follow?
> >>> - why is the rpm droping when I take the foot off the pedal?
> >>> - is the new debitmeter broken, or is the old one but in such manner
> >>> that it hides some of the car's vices?
> >>> - what do you think I should do to solve the problem or make it clear?
> >> The debitmeter that you refer to is not a term that I have heard in the
> >> US but a Google seems to indicate that it is the Diverter Valve that you
> >> are referring to. The DV may be at fault causing boost problems but
> >> probably not the cause of most of your issues.
>
> >> A rattle under deceleration is often associated with a failed Waste Gate
> >> actuator which is part of the turbo but can be replaced separetly for
> >> about $180 US parts cost. If this is the problem you would experience
> >> loss of boost underaccelerationbut it would not be the reason that you
> >> are getting codes.
>
> >> I would guess that you had a loose connection of the O2 sensor. Crimped
> >> wire connection are preferred over soldered when replacing with generic.
>
> >> I don't remember you saying that you replaced the MAF. If not that is
> >> the first thing I would suggest and then see what codes you get. The MAF
> >> can be cleaned but replacing it is a more certain fix.
>
> > All appologies! By debitmeter I was reffering to MAF!
> > I have placed back the old MAF and the errors dissapeard. The
> > turations stilldropthough... and the sound is still scratching my
> > nerves.
> > So you are saying that is the "Waste Gate Actuator"... Is this the
> > termaudiuses as well for this part? Well I will look for this part,
> > see where is located but
> > meanwhile I have ordered a Diverter Valve because someone told me that
> > the sound can be associated with DV. What do you think about that?
>
> Good that replacing the MAF corrected the codes.
>
> "Waste Gate Actuator" is the term that is used in the US and I would
> guess most other English speaking countries. It is an assembly that is
> attached to the side of the turbo and is usually considered a part of
> the turbo but can be changed separetly. Replacing it requires remocing
> the turbo. I was just guessing that this might be your problem. Be sure
> to diagnose the problem before spending money and time on it.
>
> A failed waste gate actuator can be diagnosed visually. With the engine
> off, look down the exhaust side of the engine and see the turbo. Between
> the turbo and the engine you will just barely be able tyo see a shiny
> steel rod running forward and back. That it the actuator rod. Use a
> stick to reach down to push on the shiney rod Try to move it back and
> forth. If it moves at all it is bad otherwise it is probably fine.
>
> Changing the DV is a good idea and may help. It would have been a good
> idea to pressure test the system for leaks and observe boost with a gage
> to see if you have a problem with it before buying parts.
>
> Let us know your progress.
Hello,
Well I have finally replace the DV. The resoults are good: the noise
dissapeared or at least is hardly noticeable and the rpm drops are now
smaller and rarely appear.
But... to be able to use the car untill I got the DV I have put back
the old MAF and I have returned the new one (I descriebed the problems
related with the new MAF in my first post). Since then I experience a
engine power loss. I am still hearing the turbo but the car lacks
power.
Please see the VAG-COM log file in which I have also generated a
graph: http://www.yousendit.com/download/WF...YTIrV3cwTVE9PQ
What I suppose is that there is a problem with the turbo pressure
because the actual pressure (@Intercooler) (with the red color), is
allways less than requested presure - yellow. In fact the pressure
only incerases if I press at once and very hard the gas pedeal. If I
press it gredualy nothing happens. Is this normal? With blue are the
rpm. With green are the verry slow values recorded by the MAF. What do
you think about these measurements?
> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Jun 4, 10:30 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
> >> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> >>> Hi everybody,
> >>> - why the car is producing a rattling noise while decelerating in the
> >>> air filter area? I believe that it is relared with the "cut-off" valve
> >>> but how can I decide it is broken, what experiments should I make,
> >>> what data in VAG-COM should I follow?
> >>> - why is the rpm droping when I take the foot off the pedal?
> >>> - is the new debitmeter broken, or is the old one but in such manner
> >>> that it hides some of the car's vices?
> >>> - what do you think I should do to solve the problem or make it clear?
> >> The debitmeter that you refer to is not a term that I have heard in the
> >> US but a Google seems to indicate that it is the Diverter Valve that you
> >> are referring to. The DV may be at fault causing boost problems but
> >> probably not the cause of most of your issues.
>
> >> A rattle under deceleration is often associated with a failed Waste Gate
> >> actuator which is part of the turbo but can be replaced separetly for
> >> about $180 US parts cost. If this is the problem you would experience
> >> loss of boost underaccelerationbut it would not be the reason that you
> >> are getting codes.
>
> >> I would guess that you had a loose connection of the O2 sensor. Crimped
> >> wire connection are preferred over soldered when replacing with generic.
>
> >> I don't remember you saying that you replaced the MAF. If not that is
> >> the first thing I would suggest and then see what codes you get. The MAF
> >> can be cleaned but replacing it is a more certain fix.
>
> > All appologies! By debitmeter I was reffering to MAF!
> > I have placed back the old MAF and the errors dissapeard. The
> > turations stilldropthough... and the sound is still scratching my
> > nerves.
> > So you are saying that is the "Waste Gate Actuator"... Is this the
> > termaudiuses as well for this part? Well I will look for this part,
> > see where is located but
> > meanwhile I have ordered a Diverter Valve because someone told me that
> > the sound can be associated with DV. What do you think about that?
>
> Good that replacing the MAF corrected the codes.
>
> "Waste Gate Actuator" is the term that is used in the US and I would
> guess most other English speaking countries. It is an assembly that is
> attached to the side of the turbo and is usually considered a part of
> the turbo but can be changed separetly. Replacing it requires remocing
> the turbo. I was just guessing that this might be your problem. Be sure
> to diagnose the problem before spending money and time on it.
>
> A failed waste gate actuator can be diagnosed visually. With the engine
> off, look down the exhaust side of the engine and see the turbo. Between
> the turbo and the engine you will just barely be able tyo see a shiny
> steel rod running forward and back. That it the actuator rod. Use a
> stick to reach down to push on the shiney rod Try to move it back and
> forth. If it moves at all it is bad otherwise it is probably fine.
>
> Changing the DV is a good idea and may help. It would have been a good
> idea to pressure test the system for leaks and observe boost with a gage
> to see if you have a problem with it before buying parts.
>
> Let us know your progress.
Hello,
Well I have finally replace the DV. The resoults are good: the noise
dissapeared or at least is hardly noticeable and the rpm drops are now
smaller and rarely appear.
But... to be able to use the car untill I got the DV I have put back
the old MAF and I have returned the new one (I descriebed the problems
related with the new MAF in my first post). Since then I experience a
engine power loss. I am still hearing the turbo but the car lacks
power.
Please see the VAG-COM log file in which I have also generated a
graph: http://www.yousendit.com/download/WF...YTIrV3cwTVE9PQ
What I suppose is that there is a problem with the turbo pressure
because the actual pressure (@Intercooler) (with the red color), is
allways less than requested presure - yellow. In fact the pressure
only incerases if I press at once and very hard the gas pedeal. If I
press it gredualy nothing happens. Is this normal? With blue are the
rpm. With green are the verry slow values recorded by the MAF. What do
you think about these measurements?
06-18-2007 | 12:01 PM
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: audi tt, 1.8 T, 225 HP - rpm variatins at deceleration and other problems
On Jun 7, 10:32 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Jun 4, 10:30 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
> >> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> >>> Hi everybody,
> >>> - why the car is producing a rattling noise while decelerating in the
> >>> air filter area? I believe that it is relared with the "cut-off" valve
> >>> but how can I decide it is broken, what experiments should I make,
> >>> what data in VAG-COM should I follow?
> >>> - why is the rpm droping when I take the foot off the pedal?
> >>> - is the new debitmeter broken, or is the old one but in such manner
> >>> that it hides some of the car's vices?
> >>> - what do you think I should do to solve the problem or make it clear?
> >> The debitmeter that you refer to is not a term that I have heard in the
> >> US but a Google seems to indicate that it is the Diverter Valve that you
> >> are referring to. The DV may be at fault causing boost problems but
> >> probably not the cause of most of your issues.
>
> >> A rattle under deceleration is often associated with a failed Waste Gate
> >> actuator which is part of the turbo but can be replaced separetly for
> >> about $180 US parts cost. If this is the problem you would experience
> >> loss of boost underaccelerationbut it would not be the reason that you
> >> are getting codes.
>
> >> I would guess that you had a loose connection of the O2 sensor. Crimped
> >> wire connection are preferred over soldered when replacing with generic.
>
> >> I don't remember you saying that you replaced the MAF. If not that is
> >> the first thing I would suggest and then see what codes you get. The MAF
> >> can be cleaned but replacing it is a more certain fix.
>
> > All appologies! By debitmeter I was reffering to MAF!
> > I have placed back the old MAF and the errors dissapeard. The
> > turations stilldropthough... and the sound is still scratching my
> > nerves.
> > So you are saying that is the "Waste Gate Actuator"... Is this the
> > termaudiuses as well for this part? Well I will look for this part,
> > see where is located but
> > meanwhile I have ordered a Diverter Valve because someone told me that
> > the sound can be associated with DV. What do you think about that?
>
> Good that replacing the MAF corrected the codes.
>
> "Waste Gate Actuator" is the term that is used in the US and I would
> guess most other English speaking countries. It is an assembly that is
> attached to the side of the turbo and is usually considered a part of
> the turbo but can be changed separetly. Replacing it requires remocing
> the turbo. I was just guessing that this might be your problem. Be sure
> to diagnose the problem before spending money and time on it.
>
> A failed waste gate actuator can be diagnosed visually. With the engine
> off, look down the exhaust side of the engine and see the turbo. Between
> the turbo and the engine you will just barely be able tyo see a shiny
> steel rod running forward and back. That it the actuator rod. Use a
> stick to reach down to push on the shiney rod Try to move it back and
> forth. If it moves at all it is bad otherwise it is probably fine.
>
> Changing the DV is a good idea and may help. It would have been a good
> idea to pressure test the system for leaks and observe boost with a gage
> to see if you have a problem with it before buying parts.
>
> Let us know your progress.
Hello,
Well I have finally replace the DV. The resoults are good: the noise
dissapeared or at least is hardly noticeable and the rpm drops are now
smaller and rarely appear.
But... to be able to use the car untill I got the DV I have put back
the old MAF and I have returned the new one (I descriebed the problems
related with the new MAF in my first post). Since then I experience a
engine power loss. I am still hearing the turbo but the car lacks
power.
Please see the VAG-COM log file in which I have also generated a
graph: http://www.yousendit.com/download/WF...YTIrV3cwTVE9PQ
What I suppose is that there is a problem with the turbo pressure
because the actual pressure (@Intercooler) (with the red color), is
allways less than requested presure - yellow. In fact the pressure
only incerases if I press at once and very hard the gas pedeal. If I
press it gredualy nothing happens. Is this normal? With blue are the
rpm. With green are the verry slow values recorded by the MAF. What do
you think about these measurements?
> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> > On Jun 4, 10:30 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
> >> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
> >>> Hi everybody,
> >>> - why the car is producing a rattling noise while decelerating in the
> >>> air filter area? I believe that it is relared with the "cut-off" valve
> >>> but how can I decide it is broken, what experiments should I make,
> >>> what data in VAG-COM should I follow?
> >>> - why is the rpm droping when I take the foot off the pedal?
> >>> - is the new debitmeter broken, or is the old one but in such manner
> >>> that it hides some of the car's vices?
> >>> - what do you think I should do to solve the problem or make it clear?
> >> The debitmeter that you refer to is not a term that I have heard in the
> >> US but a Google seems to indicate that it is the Diverter Valve that you
> >> are referring to. The DV may be at fault causing boost problems but
> >> probably not the cause of most of your issues.
>
> >> A rattle under deceleration is often associated with a failed Waste Gate
> >> actuator which is part of the turbo but can be replaced separetly for
> >> about $180 US parts cost. If this is the problem you would experience
> >> loss of boost underaccelerationbut it would not be the reason that you
> >> are getting codes.
>
> >> I would guess that you had a loose connection of the O2 sensor. Crimped
> >> wire connection are preferred over soldered when replacing with generic.
>
> >> I don't remember you saying that you replaced the MAF. If not that is
> >> the first thing I would suggest and then see what codes you get. The MAF
> >> can be cleaned but replacing it is a more certain fix.
>
> > All appologies! By debitmeter I was reffering to MAF!
> > I have placed back the old MAF and the errors dissapeard. The
> > turations stilldropthough... and the sound is still scratching my
> > nerves.
> > So you are saying that is the "Waste Gate Actuator"... Is this the
> > termaudiuses as well for this part? Well I will look for this part,
> > see where is located but
> > meanwhile I have ordered a Diverter Valve because someone told me that
> > the sound can be associated with DV. What do you think about that?
>
> Good that replacing the MAF corrected the codes.
>
> "Waste Gate Actuator" is the term that is used in the US and I would
> guess most other English speaking countries. It is an assembly that is
> attached to the side of the turbo and is usually considered a part of
> the turbo but can be changed separetly. Replacing it requires remocing
> the turbo. I was just guessing that this might be your problem. Be sure
> to diagnose the problem before spending money and time on it.
>
> A failed waste gate actuator can be diagnosed visually. With the engine
> off, look down the exhaust side of the engine and see the turbo. Between
> the turbo and the engine you will just barely be able tyo see a shiny
> steel rod running forward and back. That it the actuator rod. Use a
> stick to reach down to push on the shiney rod Try to move it back and
> forth. If it moves at all it is bad otherwise it is probably fine.
>
> Changing the DV is a good idea and may help. It would have been a good
> idea to pressure test the system for leaks and observe boost with a gage
> to see if you have a problem with it before buying parts.
>
> Let us know your progress.
Hello,
Well I have finally replace the DV. The resoults are good: the noise
dissapeared or at least is hardly noticeable and the rpm drops are now
smaller and rarely appear.
But... to be able to use the car untill I got the DV I have put back
the old MAF and I have returned the new one (I descriebed the problems
related with the new MAF in my first post). Since then I experience a
engine power loss. I am still hearing the turbo but the car lacks
power.
Please see the VAG-COM log file in which I have also generated a
graph: http://www.yousendit.com/download/WF...YTIrV3cwTVE9PQ
What I suppose is that there is a problem with the turbo pressure
because the actual pressure (@Intercooler) (with the red color), is
allways less than requested presure - yellow. In fact the pressure
only incerases if I press at once and very hard the gas pedeal. If I
press it gredualy nothing happens. Is this normal? With blue are the
rpm. With green are the verry slow values recorded by the MAF. What do
you think about these measurements?
06-18-2007 | 04:51 PM
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: audi tt, 1.8 T, 225 HP - rpm variatins at deceleration and otherproblems
florinman@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jun 7, 10:32 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
>> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> On Jun 4, 10:30 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
>>>> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>> Hi everybody,
>>>>> - why the car is producing a rattling noise while decelerating in the
>>>>> air filter area? I believe that it is relared with the "cut-off" valve
>>>>> but how can I decide it is broken, what experiments should I make,
>>>>> what data in VAG-COM should I follow?
>>>>> - why is the rpm droping when I take the foot off the pedal?
>>>>> - is the new debitmeter broken, or is the old one but in such manner
>>>>> that it hides some of the car's vices?
>>>>> - what do you think I should do to solve the problem or make it clear?
>>>> The debitmeter that you refer to is not a term that I have heard in the
>>>> US but a Google seems to indicate that it is the Diverter Valve that you
>>>> are referring to. The DV may be at fault causing boost problems but
>>>> probably not the cause of most of your issues.
>>>> A rattle under deceleration is often associated with a failed Waste Gate
>>>> actuator which is part of the turbo but can be replaced separetly for
>>>> about $180 US parts cost. If this is the problem you would experience
>>>> loss of boost underaccelerationbut it would not be the reason that you
>>>> are getting codes.
>>>> I would guess that you had a loose connection of the O2 sensor. Crimped
>>>> wire connection are preferred over soldered when replacing with generic.
>>>> I don't remember you saying that you replaced the MAF. If not that is
>>>> the first thing I would suggest and then see what codes you get. The MAF
>>>> can be cleaned but replacing it is a more certain fix.
>>> All appologies! By debitmeter I was reffering to MAF!
>>> I have placed back the old MAF and the errors dissapeard. The
>>> turations stilldropthough... and the sound is still scratching my
>>> nerves.
>>> So you are saying that is the "Waste Gate Actuator"... Is this the
>>> termaudiuses as well for this part? Well I will look for this part,
>>> see where is located but
>>> meanwhile I have ordered a Diverter Valve because someone told me that
>>> the sound can be associated with DV. What do you think about that?
>> Good that replacing the MAF corrected the codes.
>>
>> "Waste Gate Actuator" is the term that is used in the US and I would
>> guess most other English speaking countries. It is an assembly that is
>> attached to the side of the turbo and is usually considered a part of
>> the turbo but can be changed separetly. Replacing it requires remocing
>> the turbo. I was just guessing that this might be your problem. Be sure
>> to diagnose the problem before spending money and time on it.
>>
>> A failed waste gate actuator can be diagnosed visually. With the engine
>> off, look down the exhaust side of the engine and see the turbo. Between
>> the turbo and the engine you will just barely be able tyo see a shiny
>> steel rod running forward and back. That it the actuator rod. Use a
>> stick to reach down to push on the shiney rod Try to move it back and
>> forth. If it moves at all it is bad otherwise it is probably fine.
>>
>> Changing the DV is a good idea and may help. It would have been a good
>> idea to pressure test the system for leaks and observe boost with a gage
>> to see if you have a problem with it before buying parts.
>>
>> Let us know your progress.
>
> Hello,
>
> Well I have finally replace the DV. The resoults are good: the noise
> dissapeared or at least is hardly noticeable and the rpm drops are now
> smaller and rarely appear.
> But... to be able to use the car untill I got the DV I have put back
> the old MAF and I have returned the new one (I descriebed the problems
> related with the new MAF in my first post). Since then I experience a
> engine power loss. I am still hearing the turbo but the car lacks
> power.
> Please see the VAG-COM log file in which I have also generated a
> graph: http://www.yousendit.com/download/WF...YTIrV3cwTVE9PQ
> What I suppose is that there is a problem with the turbo pressure
> because the actual pressure (@Intercooler) (with the red color), is
> allways less than requested presure - yellow. In fact the pressure
> only incerases if I press at once and very hard the gas pedeal. If I
> press it gredualy nothing happens. Is this normal? With blue are the
> rpm. With green are the verry slow values recorded by the MAF. What do
> you think about these measurements?
>
It still sounds like a problem with the waste gate actuator and may be
combined with a vacuum leak.
06-18-2007 | 04:51 PM
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: audi tt, 1.8 T, 225 HP - rpm variatins at deceleration and otherproblems
florinman@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jun 7, 10:32 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
>> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> On Jun 4, 10:30 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
>>>> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>> Hi everybody,
>>>>> - why the car is producing a rattling noise while decelerating in the
>>>>> air filter area? I believe that it is relared with the "cut-off" valve
>>>>> but how can I decide it is broken, what experiments should I make,
>>>>> what data in VAG-COM should I follow?
>>>>> - why is the rpm droping when I take the foot off the pedal?
>>>>> - is the new debitmeter broken, or is the old one but in such manner
>>>>> that it hides some of the car's vices?
>>>>> - what do you think I should do to solve the problem or make it clear?
>>>> The debitmeter that you refer to is not a term that I have heard in the
>>>> US but a Google seems to indicate that it is the Diverter Valve that you
>>>> are referring to. The DV may be at fault causing boost problems but
>>>> probably not the cause of most of your issues.
>>>> A rattle under deceleration is often associated with a failed Waste Gate
>>>> actuator which is part of the turbo but can be replaced separetly for
>>>> about $180 US parts cost. If this is the problem you would experience
>>>> loss of boost underaccelerationbut it would not be the reason that you
>>>> are getting codes.
>>>> I would guess that you had a loose connection of the O2 sensor. Crimped
>>>> wire connection are preferred over soldered when replacing with generic.
>>>> I don't remember you saying that you replaced the MAF. If not that is
>>>> the first thing I would suggest and then see what codes you get. The MAF
>>>> can be cleaned but replacing it is a more certain fix.
>>> All appologies! By debitmeter I was reffering to MAF!
>>> I have placed back the old MAF and the errors dissapeard. The
>>> turations stilldropthough... and the sound is still scratching my
>>> nerves.
>>> So you are saying that is the "Waste Gate Actuator"... Is this the
>>> termaudiuses as well for this part? Well I will look for this part,
>>> see where is located but
>>> meanwhile I have ordered a Diverter Valve because someone told me that
>>> the sound can be associated with DV. What do you think about that?
>> Good that replacing the MAF corrected the codes.
>>
>> "Waste Gate Actuator" is the term that is used in the US and I would
>> guess most other English speaking countries. It is an assembly that is
>> attached to the side of the turbo and is usually considered a part of
>> the turbo but can be changed separetly. Replacing it requires remocing
>> the turbo. I was just guessing that this might be your problem. Be sure
>> to diagnose the problem before spending money and time on it.
>>
>> A failed waste gate actuator can be diagnosed visually. With the engine
>> off, look down the exhaust side of the engine and see the turbo. Between
>> the turbo and the engine you will just barely be able tyo see a shiny
>> steel rod running forward and back. That it the actuator rod. Use a
>> stick to reach down to push on the shiney rod Try to move it back and
>> forth. If it moves at all it is bad otherwise it is probably fine.
>>
>> Changing the DV is a good idea and may help. It would have been a good
>> idea to pressure test the system for leaks and observe boost with a gage
>> to see if you have a problem with it before buying parts.
>>
>> Let us know your progress.
>
> Hello,
>
> Well I have finally replace the DV. The resoults are good: the noise
> dissapeared or at least is hardly noticeable and the rpm drops are now
> smaller and rarely appear.
> But... to be able to use the car untill I got the DV I have put back
> the old MAF and I have returned the new one (I descriebed the problems
> related with the new MAF in my first post). Since then I experience a
> engine power loss. I am still hearing the turbo but the car lacks
> power.
> Please see the VAG-COM log file in which I have also generated a
> graph: http://www.yousendit.com/download/WF...YTIrV3cwTVE9PQ
> What I suppose is that there is a problem with the turbo pressure
> because the actual pressure (@Intercooler) (with the red color), is
> allways less than requested presure - yellow. In fact the pressure
> only incerases if I press at once and very hard the gas pedeal. If I
> press it gredualy nothing happens. Is this normal? With blue are the
> rpm. With green are the verry slow values recorded by the MAF. What do
> you think about these measurements?
>
It still sounds like a problem with the waste gate actuator and may be
combined with a vacuum leak.
06-18-2007 | 04:51 PM
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: audi tt, 1.8 T, 225 HP - rpm variatins at deceleration and otherproblems
florinman@gmail.com wrote:
> On Jun 7, 10:32 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
>> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
>>> On Jun 4, 10:30 pm, Tony <tonyjNOS...@NOSPAMvisi.com> wrote:
>>>> florin...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>> Hi everybody,
>>>>> - why the car is producing a rattling noise while decelerating in the
>>>>> air filter area? I believe that it is relared with the "cut-off" valve
>>>>> but how can I decide it is broken, what experiments should I make,
>>>>> what data in VAG-COM should I follow?
>>>>> - why is the rpm droping when I take the foot off the pedal?
>>>>> - is the new debitmeter broken, or is the old one but in such manner
>>>>> that it hides some of the car's vices?
>>>>> - what do you think I should do to solve the problem or make it clear?
>>>> The debitmeter that you refer to is not a term that I have heard in the
>>>> US but a Google seems to indicate that it is the Diverter Valve that you
>>>> are referring to. The DV may be at fault causing boost problems but
>>>> probably not the cause of most of your issues.
>>>> A rattle under deceleration is often associated with a failed Waste Gate
>>>> actuator which is part of the turbo but can be replaced separetly for
>>>> about $180 US parts cost. If this is the problem you would experience
>>>> loss of boost underaccelerationbut it would not be the reason that you
>>>> are getting codes.
>>>> I would guess that you had a loose connection of the O2 sensor. Crimped
>>>> wire connection are preferred over soldered when replacing with generic.
>>>> I don't remember you saying that you replaced the MAF. If not that is
>>>> the first thing I would suggest and then see what codes you get. The MAF
>>>> can be cleaned but replacing it is a more certain fix.
>>> All appologies! By debitmeter I was reffering to MAF!
>>> I have placed back the old MAF and the errors dissapeard. The
>>> turations stilldropthough... and the sound is still scratching my
>>> nerves.
>>> So you are saying that is the "Waste Gate Actuator"... Is this the
>>> termaudiuses as well for this part? Well I will look for this part,
>>> see where is located but
>>> meanwhile I have ordered a Diverter Valve because someone told me that
>>> the sound can be associated with DV. What do you think about that?
>> Good that replacing the MAF corrected the codes.
>>
>> "Waste Gate Actuator" is the term that is used in the US and I would
>> guess most other English speaking countries. It is an assembly that is
>> attached to the side of the turbo and is usually considered a part of
>> the turbo but can be changed separetly. Replacing it requires remocing
>> the turbo. I was just guessing that this might be your problem. Be sure
>> to diagnose the problem before spending money and time on it.
>>
>> A failed waste gate actuator can be diagnosed visually. With the engine
>> off, look down the exhaust side of the engine and see the turbo. Between
>> the turbo and the engine you will just barely be able tyo see a shiny
>> steel rod running forward and back. That it the actuator rod. Use a
>> stick to reach down to push on the shiney rod Try to move it back and
>> forth. If it moves at all it is bad otherwise it is probably fine.
>>
>> Changing the DV is a good idea and may help. It would have been a good
>> idea to pressure test the system for leaks and observe boost with a gage
>> to see if you have a problem with it before buying parts.
>>
>> Let us know your progress.
>
> Hello,
>
> Well I have finally replace the DV. The resoults are good: the noise
> dissapeared or at least is hardly noticeable and the rpm drops are now
> smaller and rarely appear.
> But... to be able to use the car untill I got the DV I have put back
> the old MAF and I have returned the new one (I descriebed the problems
> related with the new MAF in my first post). Since then I experience a
> engine power loss. I am still hearing the turbo but the car lacks
> power.
> Please see the VAG-COM log file in which I have also generated a
> graph: http://www.yousendit.com/download/WF...YTIrV3cwTVE9PQ
> What I suppose is that there is a problem with the turbo pressure
> because the actual pressure (@Intercooler) (with the red color), is
> allways less than requested presure - yellow. In fact the pressure
> only incerases if I press at once and very hard the gas pedeal. If I
> press it gredualy nothing happens. Is this normal? With blue are the
> rpm. With green are the verry slow values recorded by the MAF. What do
> you think about these measurements?
>
It still sounds like a problem with the waste gate actuator and may be
combined with a vacuum leak.
