Please forgive me if this has been asked and answered before:

I have 60,000 on the 2000 A4 1.8T and it's time to change the oil again.
After receiving the notice about the 502.00 standard, I am contemplating
switching from the Castrol dino oil I have been using and put in a
recommended synthetic. Here are my questions:

1. Is this standard an overresponse to the "coking" issue in that if you
change the oil regularly at, say 5,000 miles, even dino oil will not present
a coking problem?

2. What is the possibility of this engine that hasn't leaked a drop
starting to leak when I switch to synthetic?

Thanks.

Ken

 

"KWS" wrote
>
> I have 60,000 on the 2000 A4 1.8T and it's time to change the oil again.

If that's 60K MILES, then it's time to replace your timing belt, tensioner,
and water pump, too.


> 1. Is this standard an overresponse to the "coking" issue in that if you
> change the oil regularly at, say 5,000 miles, even dino oil will not
> present
> a coking problem?

Had it been an NA engine, I'd say yes. But with turbo, even 5K mile changes
with dino could result in coking under certain conditions. Generally,
turbocharged engines are very hard on oil, and the very high temperatures
that exist inside the turbo cooling lines could cause dino oil to coke if
you don't observe the proper cool-down procedures. Synthetics can also
coke, but can withstand somewhat higher temps.


> 2. What is the possibility of this engine that hasn't leaked a drop
> starting to leak when I switch to synthetic?

There is a chance that a good synthetic oil will start cleaning out the crud
and open some holes here and there. I'm thinking the worse that can happen
is that you might have to replace your head gasket. I'd rather do that than
have to replace my turbo and/or have sludge all over my engine.

Before you start using synthetic, at this mileage I think I'd do some
cleaning first, with AutoRX for example. http://www.auto-rx.com/

For more info on oil and cleaning with AutoRX, head on to:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

Cheers,

Pete

 

"KWS" wrote
>
> I have 60,000 on the 2000 A4 1.8T and it's time to change the oil again.

If that's 60K MILES, then it's time to replace your timing belt, tensioner,
and water pump, too.


> 1. Is this standard an overresponse to the "coking" issue in that if you
> change the oil regularly at, say 5,000 miles, even dino oil will not
> present
> a coking problem?

Had it been an NA engine, I'd say yes. But with turbo, even 5K mile changes
with dino could result in coking under certain conditions. Generally,
turbocharged engines are very hard on oil, and the very high temperatures
that exist inside the turbo cooling lines could cause dino oil to coke if
you don't observe the proper cool-down procedures. Synthetics can also
coke, but can withstand somewhat higher temps.


> 2. What is the possibility of this engine that hasn't leaked a drop
> starting to leak when I switch to synthetic?

There is a chance that a good synthetic oil will start cleaning out the crud
and open some holes here and there. I'm thinking the worse that can happen
is that you might have to replace your head gasket. I'd rather do that than
have to replace my turbo and/or have sludge all over my engine.

Before you start using synthetic, at this mileage I think I'd do some
cleaning first, with AutoRX for example. http://www.auto-rx.com/

For more info on oil and cleaning with AutoRX, head on to:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

Cheers,

Pete

 

Thanks for the response, Pete. Please see my comments

"Pete" <escape2music@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:clidah$g7e$1@atlantis.news.tpi.pl...
>
> "KWS" wrote
> >
> > I have 60,000 on the 2000 A4 1.8T and it's time to change the oil again.
>
> If that's 60K MILES, then it's time to replace your timing belt,
tensioner,
> and water pump, too.

Yep. Got the parts, just need a weekend to do the job. I may post this
separately, but do you happen to know what size the extension bolts are that
you install to move the front clip forward to service the front of the
engine?

>
>
> > 1. Is this standard an overresponse to the "coking" issue in that if
you
> > change the oil regularly at, say 5,000 miles, even dino oil will not
> > present
> > a coking problem?
>
> Had it been an NA engine, I'd say yes. But with turbo, even 5K mile
changes
> with dino could result in coking under certain conditions. Generally,
> turbocharged engines are very hard on oil, and the very high temperatures
> that exist inside the turbo cooling lines could cause dino oil to coke if
> you don't observe the proper cool-down procedures.

What is a proper cool-down procedure? Is this like walking a racehorse?


Synthetics can also
> coke, but can withstand somewhat higher temps.
>
>
> > 2. What is the possibility of this engine that hasn't leaked a drop
> > starting to leak when I switch to synthetic?
>
> There is a chance that a good synthetic oil will start cleaning out the
crud
> and open some holes here and there. I'm thinking the worse that can
happen
> is that you might have to replace your head gasket.

That's it, huh?

I'd rather do that than
> have to replace my turbo and/or have sludge all over my engine.

What do you mean by sludge all over the engine? Or are you referring to
inside the engine?
>
> Before you start using synthetic, at this mileage I think I'd do some
> cleaning first, with AutoRX for example. http://www.auto-rx.com/

Thanks for the links. I read some of this stuff and, forgive me if I sound a
little skeptical, but expenisve additives kind of raise warning flags.

I am a little surprised that VW/Audi didn't take this a little further and
either warn or advise owners of higher mileage cars about any adverse
effects of synthetic. Of course, maybe there are none?

Regards,

Ken

>
> For more info on oil and cleaning with AutoRX, head on to:
> http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
>
> Cheers,
>
> Pete
>
>

 

Thanks for the response, Pete. Please see my comments

"Pete" <escape2music@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:clidah$g7e$1@atlantis.news.tpi.pl...
>
> "KWS" wrote
> >
> > I have 60,000 on the 2000 A4 1.8T and it's time to change the oil again.
>
> If that's 60K MILES, then it's time to replace your timing belt,
tensioner,
> and water pump, too.

Yep. Got the parts, just need a weekend to do the job. I may post this
separately, but do you happen to know what size the extension bolts are that
you install to move the front clip forward to service the front of the
engine?

>
>
> > 1. Is this standard an overresponse to the "coking" issue in that if
you
> > change the oil regularly at, say 5,000 miles, even dino oil will not
> > present
> > a coking problem?
>
> Had it been an NA engine, I'd say yes. But with turbo, even 5K mile
changes
> with dino could result in coking under certain conditions. Generally,
> turbocharged engines are very hard on oil, and the very high temperatures
> that exist inside the turbo cooling lines could cause dino oil to coke if
> you don't observe the proper cool-down procedures.

What is a proper cool-down procedure? Is this like walking a racehorse?


Synthetics can also
> coke, but can withstand somewhat higher temps.
>
>
> > 2. What is the possibility of this engine that hasn't leaked a drop
> > starting to leak when I switch to synthetic?
>
> There is a chance that a good synthetic oil will start cleaning out the
crud
> and open some holes here and there. I'm thinking the worse that can
happen
> is that you might have to replace your head gasket.

That's it, huh?

I'd rather do that than
> have to replace my turbo and/or have sludge all over my engine.

What do you mean by sludge all over the engine? Or are you referring to
inside the engine?
>
> Before you start using synthetic, at this mileage I think I'd do some
> cleaning first, with AutoRX for example. http://www.auto-rx.com/

Thanks for the links. I read some of this stuff and, forgive me if I sound a
little skeptical, but expenisve additives kind of raise warning flags.

I am a little surprised that VW/Audi didn't take this a little further and
either warn or advise owners of higher mileage cars about any adverse
effects of synthetic. Of course, maybe there are none?

Regards,

Ken

>
> For more info on oil and cleaning with AutoRX, head on to:
> http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi
>
> Cheers,
>
> Pete
>
>

 

"KWS"wrote
> do you happen to know what size the extension bolts are that
> you install to move the front clip forward to service the front of the
> engine?

No idea. I haven't done mine yet. I'm only at 40K miles right now.


> What is a proper cool-down procedure? Is this like walking a racehorse?

Yes, sort of. Do not shut off the engine immediately right after a hard run
/ spirited run when you were dipping into boost a lot (hear the turbo spool
up). Instead, either take it easy for the last couple of miles of the way
or let the engine idle for a minute or two before you turn it off. Some
people even install turbo timers if they don't want to sit inside the car
and wait.


>> I'm thinking the worse that can happen
>> is that you might have to replace your head gasket.
>
> That's it, huh?

If you read the AutoRX info, you may not even need to do that much.


> What do you mean by sludge all over the engine? Or are you referring to
> inside the engine?

Yes, inside of course.


> Thanks for the links. I read some of this stuff and, forgive me if I sound
> a
> little skeptical, but expenisve additives kind of raise warning flags.

That's generally true, and I've been skeptical about it myself. But seeing
a ton of happy customers in the oil forums (the link I gave you), including
some very knowledgeable oil gurus and chemists, I've changed my mind. There
is also a number of used oil analysis reports to back it up (again - done by
customers, not by AutoRX). I've ran synthetic oil in my 1.8T since day 1 at
5K mile intervals and it only has 40K miles, so I don't feel it needs an
AutoRX treatment just yet, but I wouldn't hesitate to use it somewhere down
the line. Of course, no one is twisting your hand to use it.


> I am a little surprised that VW/Audi didn't take this a little further and
> either warn or advise owners of higher mileage cars about any adverse
> effects of synthetic. Of course, maybe there are none?

Well, they don't get into much details. As it is, the owner's manual is
very dumbed-down for an average Joe, me thinks. But the fact that they just
went out now and said "start using synthetic" (502.00) just like that, I
guess it means there shouldn't be any issues with switching over. Then of
course, it's not the first time they messed up. Things like letting
customers run on dino oil for 10K miles in a turbo engine, or suggesting
that timing belt should be changed at 105-120K mile intervals come to
mind...

In Europe, all dealers use high quality synthetic oil, and of course the
cars came filled with synthetic from the factory. I haven't heard of any
oil-related/sludge issues there (or actually here, since I'm in Europe now).

Cheers,

Pete

 

"KWS"wrote
> do you happen to know what size the extension bolts are that
> you install to move the front clip forward to service the front of the
> engine?

No idea. I haven't done mine yet. I'm only at 40K miles right now.


> What is a proper cool-down procedure? Is this like walking a racehorse?

Yes, sort of. Do not shut off the engine immediately right after a hard run
/ spirited run when you were dipping into boost a lot (hear the turbo spool
up). Instead, either take it easy for the last couple of miles of the way
or let the engine idle for a minute or two before you turn it off. Some
people even install turbo timers if they don't want to sit inside the car
and wait.


>> I'm thinking the worse that can happen
>> is that you might have to replace your head gasket.
>
> That's it, huh?

If you read the AutoRX info, you may not even need to do that much.


> What do you mean by sludge all over the engine? Or are you referring to
> inside the engine?

Yes, inside of course.


> Thanks for the links. I read some of this stuff and, forgive me if I sound
> a
> little skeptical, but expenisve additives kind of raise warning flags.

That's generally true, and I've been skeptical about it myself. But seeing
a ton of happy customers in the oil forums (the link I gave you), including
some very knowledgeable oil gurus and chemists, I've changed my mind. There
is also a number of used oil analysis reports to back it up (again - done by
customers, not by AutoRX). I've ran synthetic oil in my 1.8T since day 1 at
5K mile intervals and it only has 40K miles, so I don't feel it needs an
AutoRX treatment just yet, but I wouldn't hesitate to use it somewhere down
the line. Of course, no one is twisting your hand to use it.


> I am a little surprised that VW/Audi didn't take this a little further and
> either warn or advise owners of higher mileage cars about any adverse
> effects of synthetic. Of course, maybe there are none?

Well, they don't get into much details. As it is, the owner's manual is
very dumbed-down for an average Joe, me thinks. But the fact that they just
went out now and said "start using synthetic" (502.00) just like that, I
guess it means there shouldn't be any issues with switching over. Then of
course, it's not the first time they messed up. Things like letting
customers run on dino oil for 10K miles in a turbo engine, or suggesting
that timing belt should be changed at 105-120K mile intervals come to
mind...

In Europe, all dealers use high quality synthetic oil, and of course the
cars came filled with synthetic from the factory. I haven't heard of any
oil-related/sludge issues there (or actually here, since I'm in Europe now).

Cheers,

Pete

 

In article <iBkfd.7182$HA.5824@attbi_s01>, KWS <noaccount@nospam.com> wrote:
>Thanks for the response, Pete. Please see my comments
>
>"Pete" <escape2music@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:clidah$g7e$1@atlantis.news.tpi.pl...
>>
>> "KWS" wrote
>> >
>> > I have 60,000 on the 2000 A4 1.8T and it's time to change the oil again.
>>
>> If that's 60K MILES, then it's time to replace your timing belt,
>tensioner,
>> and water pump, too.
>
>Yep. Got the parts, just need a weekend to do the job. I may post this
>separately, but do you happen to know what size the extension bolts are that
>you install to move the front clip forward to service the front of the
>engine?

It's far easier to just disconnect the radiator hoses completely and
swing the entire lock carrier assembly out of the way (to the passenger
side if you don't remove the a/c evaporator). Then you have unobstructed
access to everything on the front of the engine.


>> > 1. Is this standard an overresponse to the "coking" issue in that if
>you
>> > change the oil regularly at, say 5,000 miles, even dino oil will not
>> > present
>> > a coking problem?
>>
>> Had it been an NA engine, I'd say yes. But with turbo, even 5K mile
>changes
>> with dino could result in coking under certain conditions. Generally,
>> turbocharged engines are very hard on oil, and the very high temperatures
>> that exist inside the turbo cooling lines could cause dino oil to coke if
>> you don't observe the proper cool-down procedures.
>
>What is a proper cool-down procedure? Is this like walking a racehorse?

Basically. Just let it idle for a minute or so, especially if you've
driven it hard prior to stopping. You can also just drive it very
easy for the last few miles as that should cool things down as well but
a minute at idle is still a good idea.

> Synthetics can also
>> coke, but can withstand somewhat higher temps.
>>
>>
>> > 2. What is the possibility of this engine that hasn't leaked a drop
>> > starting to leak when I switch to synthetic?
>>
>> There is a chance that a good synthetic oil will start cleaning out the
>crud
>> and open some holes here and there. I'm thinking the worse that can
>happen
>> is that you might have to replace your head gasket.
>
>That's it, huh?

You shouldn't have any problems with this. Even today's dino oil
is far better than the stuff you would have been using years ago.


> I'd rather do that than
>> have to replace my turbo and/or have sludge all over my engine.
>
>What do you mean by sludge all over the engine? Or are you referring to
>inside the engine?

Assuming you've taken care of the car and have changed the oil on or
before the recommended intervals with a quality oil, your engine should
be fine.

>>
>> Before you start using synthetic, at this mileage I think I'd do some
>> cleaning first, with AutoRX for example. http://www.auto-rx.com/
>
>Thanks for the links. I read some of this stuff and, forgive me if I sound a
>little skeptical, but expenisve additives kind of raise warning flags.

I would avoid additives or flushing if at all possible. I just don't
believe that a well maintained engine would require such treatment.

>I am a little surprised that VW/Audi didn't take this a little further and
>either warn or advise owners of higher mileage cars about any adverse
>effects of synthetic. Of course, maybe there are none?

I think you hit the nail on the head. Chaning over to synthetic is far
better than not doing it at all.

- Charlie

 

In article <iBkfd.7182$HA.5824@attbi_s01>, KWS <noaccount@nospam.com> wrote:
>Thanks for the response, Pete. Please see my comments
>
>"Pete" <escape2music@hotmail.com> wrote in message
>news:clidah$g7e$1@atlantis.news.tpi.pl...
>>
>> "KWS" wrote
>> >
>> > I have 60,000 on the 2000 A4 1.8T and it's time to change the oil again.
>>
>> If that's 60K MILES, then it's time to replace your timing belt,
>tensioner,
>> and water pump, too.
>
>Yep. Got the parts, just need a weekend to do the job. I may post this
>separately, but do you happen to know what size the extension bolts are that
>you install to move the front clip forward to service the front of the
>engine?

It's far easier to just disconnect the radiator hoses completely and
swing the entire lock carrier assembly out of the way (to the passenger
side if you don't remove the a/c evaporator). Then you have unobstructed
access to everything on the front of the engine.


>> > 1. Is this standard an overresponse to the "coking" issue in that if
>you
>> > change the oil regularly at, say 5,000 miles, even dino oil will not
>> > present
>> > a coking problem?
>>
>> Had it been an NA engine, I'd say yes. But with turbo, even 5K mile
>changes
>> with dino could result in coking under certain conditions. Generally,
>> turbocharged engines are very hard on oil, and the very high temperatures
>> that exist inside the turbo cooling lines could cause dino oil to coke if
>> you don't observe the proper cool-down procedures.
>
>What is a proper cool-down procedure? Is this like walking a racehorse?

Basically. Just let it idle for a minute or so, especially if you've
driven it hard prior to stopping. You can also just drive it very
easy for the last few miles as that should cool things down as well but
a minute at idle is still a good idea.

> Synthetics can also
>> coke, but can withstand somewhat higher temps.
>>
>>
>> > 2. What is the possibility of this engine that hasn't leaked a drop
>> > starting to leak when I switch to synthetic?
>>
>> There is a chance that a good synthetic oil will start cleaning out the
>crud
>> and open some holes here and there. I'm thinking the worse that can
>happen
>> is that you might have to replace your head gasket.
>
>That's it, huh?

You shouldn't have any problems with this. Even today's dino oil
is far better than the stuff you would have been using years ago.


> I'd rather do that than
>> have to replace my turbo and/or have sludge all over my engine.
>
>What do you mean by sludge all over the engine? Or are you referring to
>inside the engine?

Assuming you've taken care of the car and have changed the oil on or
before the recommended intervals with a quality oil, your engine should
be fine.

>>
>> Before you start using synthetic, at this mileage I think I'd do some
>> cleaning first, with AutoRX for example. http://www.auto-rx.com/
>
>Thanks for the links. I read some of this stuff and, forgive me if I sound a
>little skeptical, but expenisve additives kind of raise warning flags.

I would avoid additives or flushing if at all possible. I just don't
believe that a well maintained engine would require such treatment.

>I am a little surprised that VW/Audi didn't take this a little further and
>either warn or advise owners of higher mileage cars about any adverse
>effects of synthetic. Of course, maybe there are none?

I think you hit the nail on the head. Chaning over to synthetic is far
better than not doing it at all.

- Charlie

 

Engine oils with Volkswagen Oil Standard VW 502.00 approval available in
North America

Manufacturer Brand Name Viscosity

Castrol Castrol Syntec 5W-40

Chevron Chevron Supreme Synthetic 5W-40

Elf Ele Excellium LDX 5W-40

Kendall Kendall GT-1 Full synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40

Mobil Mobil 1 0W-40

Pennzoil-Quaker state Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula 5W-40

Pennzoil-Quaker state Pennzoil Synthetic European Formula Ultra 5W-30

Pennzoil-Quaker state Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula 5W-40

Pennzoil-Quaker state Quaker State Full Synthetic European Formula Ultra
5W-30

Seventysix lubricants 76 Pure Synthetic Motor Oil 5W-40

Texaco Havoline Synthetic 5W-40

Total Total Quartz 9000 5W-40

Valvoline Valvoline Synpower 5W-30

Valvoline Valvoline Synpower 5W-40

It has always been Audi's policy to continuously improve its products. Audi,
therefore, reserves the right tomake changes in design and specifications,
and tomake additions or improvements to its products without incurring any
obligation to install them on products previously manufactured.Text and
specifications in this Supplement are based on information and knowledge
available at the time of printing. All rights are reserved.May not be
reproduced or translated in whole or in part without the written consent of
Audi of America, Inc. Specifications are subject to change without notice.
If you are not sure which oil to use, consult with your authorized Audi
Service Advisor.

? 2004 Audi of America, Inc. Printed in USA, July 2004

241.AUDI.APPROVED.OILS.CHART.FOR1.8LTURBO.94