This should be a good hobby car for you. Very rewarding to get one of these in
good running shape and very doable.

Steve's recommendations are, of course, right-on. I would like to add a couple
of guesses / hints.

Have your battery load tested to find if it has a shorting cell.

There are two places that are very likely to be the source of the problem.
- The wires break and short at the driver's side where they enter the trunk
hinge due to flexing.
- The wire bundle that runs from the drivers side kick panel, through a rubber
accordion like tube and into the drivers door always get broken wires the affect
many things in addition to causing current draw.

Get out you solder gun with rosin core, heat shrink tubing and some crimps. Try
to find 18 or 20 gage marine wire because it is pre-tined and has more strands
to withstand future flexing.

Have fun.

TonyJ
former - four T44s. Last one was '91 100q
current 98.5 A4 1.8TQM

The Murdock's wrote:

> Thanks for the advice. Being an old electronics engineer I am betting on a
> ground fault probably in the main power line. I'll take your advice and use
> the Bentley over the other manuals - never found them much good. The
> battery and alternator are both new. I thought as I'm now retired this car
> would let me get back to my hobby of restoring autos to new. Since the
> owner only wants 300 for it (and other than the electrical it is in pristine
> condition) I figure I can't go wrong.
>
> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
> news:QZPBf.20676$ve.348852@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>
>>Hello Murdock's,
>>Your best plan of action would be to hook up an ammeter to measure current
>>draw, and then isolate by pulling and replacing fuses where most of the
>>draw is going. Then, using the Bentley Manual you have bought from
>>eBay/Audiworld/Audifans/local dealer or borrowed from a local Audi-fan/a
>>friend's garage/the library/???, you figure out which
>>relays/accessories/wires are connected to that fuse. That's what the
>>dealer's mechanics would do......
>>If the current draw is not very much, you might look towards things like:
>>- condition of the alternator (/engine) ground
>>- condition of the splice in the main power running through the firewall
>>and to the battery
>>- age and condition of the battery
>>Before you "completely rewire", which may be accomplished by taking the
>>car to a wrecker and getting a "completely wired" replacement from the
>>classifieds, I'd spring for a Bentley Manual.
>>Cheers!
>>Steve Sears
>>1987 Audi 5kTQ - Bentley Factory Manual set close at hand
>>1980 Audi 5k - 2 (Main+redundant second copy) Bentley Manuals on hand,
>>Haynes and Chilton manuals used to hold Bentley Manual open to correct
>>pages while working
>>1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - pre-Bentley Factory Manuals
>>on hand - in both English and German
>>(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>>
>>
>>"The Murdock's" <darldm@mebtel.net> wrote in message
>>news:dr8ert01m8h@enews4.newsguy.com...
>>
>>>I am looking at a '90 100 which has an electrical problem. It has had the
>>>alternator replaced by the dealer but still drains the battery in less
>>>than 24 hours. Outside of completely rewiring what could be a probable
>>>cause? I've thought about pulling fuses one at a time until the problem
>>>ceases but not sure, without complete schematics, if this would isolate
>>>the problem to a system.
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

 

This should be a good hobby car for you. Very rewarding to get one of these in
good running shape and very doable.

Steve's recommendations are, of course, right-on. I would like to add a couple
of guesses / hints.

Have your battery load tested to find if it has a shorting cell.

There are two places that are very likely to be the source of the problem.
- The wires break and short at the driver's side where they enter the trunk
hinge due to flexing.
- The wire bundle that runs from the drivers side kick panel, through a rubber
accordion like tube and into the drivers door always get broken wires the affect
many things in addition to causing current draw.

Get out you solder gun with rosin core, heat shrink tubing and some crimps. Try
to find 18 or 20 gage marine wire because it is pre-tined and has more strands
to withstand future flexing.

Have fun.

TonyJ
former - four T44s. Last one was '91 100q
current 98.5 A4 1.8TQM

The Murdock's wrote:

> Thanks for the advice. Being an old electronics engineer I am betting on a
> ground fault probably in the main power line. I'll take your advice and use
> the Bentley over the other manuals - never found them much good. The
> battery and alternator are both new. I thought as I'm now retired this car
> would let me get back to my hobby of restoring autos to new. Since the
> owner only wants 300 for it (and other than the electrical it is in pristine
> condition) I figure I can't go wrong.
>
> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
> news:QZPBf.20676$ve.348852@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>
>>Hello Murdock's,
>>Your best plan of action would be to hook up an ammeter to measure current
>>draw, and then isolate by pulling and replacing fuses where most of the
>>draw is going. Then, using the Bentley Manual you have bought from
>>eBay/Audiworld/Audifans/local dealer or borrowed from a local Audi-fan/a
>>friend's garage/the library/???, you figure out which
>>relays/accessories/wires are connected to that fuse. That's what the
>>dealer's mechanics would do......
>>If the current draw is not very much, you might look towards things like:
>>- condition of the alternator (/engine) ground
>>- condition of the splice in the main power running through the firewall
>>and to the battery
>>- age and condition of the battery
>>Before you "completely rewire", which may be accomplished by taking the
>>car to a wrecker and getting a "completely wired" replacement from the
>>classifieds, I'd spring for a Bentley Manual.
>>Cheers!
>>Steve Sears
>>1987 Audi 5kTQ - Bentley Factory Manual set close at hand
>>1980 Audi 5k - 2 (Main+redundant second copy) Bentley Manuals on hand,
>>Haynes and Chilton manuals used to hold Bentley Manual open to correct
>>pages while working
>>1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - pre-Bentley Factory Manuals
>>on hand - in both English and German
>>(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>>
>>
>>"The Murdock's" <darldm@mebtel.net> wrote in message
>>news:dr8ert01m8h@enews4.newsguy.com...
>>
>>>I am looking at a '90 100 which has an electrical problem. It has had the
>>>alternator replaced by the dealer but still drains the battery in less
>>>than 24 hours. Outside of completely rewiring what could be a probable
>>>cause? I've thought about pulling fuses one at a time until the problem
>>>ceases but not sure, without complete schematics, if this would isolate
>>>the problem to a system.
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

 

This should be a good hobby car for you. Very rewarding to get one of these in
good running shape and very doable.

Steve's recommendations are, of course, right-on. I would like to add a couple
of guesses / hints.

Have your battery load tested to find if it has a shorting cell.

There are two places that are very likely to be the source of the problem.
- The wires break and short at the driver's side where they enter the trunk
hinge due to flexing.
- The wire bundle that runs from the drivers side kick panel, through a rubber
accordion like tube and into the drivers door always get broken wires the affect
many things in addition to causing current draw.

Get out you solder gun with rosin core, heat shrink tubing and some crimps. Try
to find 18 or 20 gage marine wire because it is pre-tined and has more strands
to withstand future flexing.

Have fun.

TonyJ
former - four T44s. Last one was '91 100q
current 98.5 A4 1.8TQM

The Murdock's wrote:

> Thanks for the advice. Being an old electronics engineer I am betting on a
> ground fault probably in the main power line. I'll take your advice and use
> the Bentley over the other manuals - never found them much good. The
> battery and alternator are both new. I thought as I'm now retired this car
> would let me get back to my hobby of restoring autos to new. Since the
> owner only wants 300 for it (and other than the electrical it is in pristine
> condition) I figure I can't go wrong.
>
> "Steve Sears" <steve.sears@SHOESsoil-mat.on.ca> wrote in message
> news:QZPBf.20676$ve.348852@news20.bellglobal.com.. .
>
>>Hello Murdock's,
>>Your best plan of action would be to hook up an ammeter to measure current
>>draw, and then isolate by pulling and replacing fuses where most of the
>>draw is going. Then, using the Bentley Manual you have bought from
>>eBay/Audiworld/Audifans/local dealer or borrowed from a local Audi-fan/a
>>friend's garage/the library/???, you figure out which
>>relays/accessories/wires are connected to that fuse. That's what the
>>dealer's mechanics would do......
>>If the current draw is not very much, you might look towards things like:
>>- condition of the alternator (/engine) ground
>>- condition of the splice in the main power running through the firewall
>>and to the battery
>>- age and condition of the battery
>>Before you "completely rewire", which may be accomplished by taking the
>>car to a wrecker and getting a "completely wired" replacement from the
>>classifieds, I'd spring for a Bentley Manual.
>>Cheers!
>>Steve Sears
>>1987 Audi 5kTQ - Bentley Factory Manual set close at hand
>>1980 Audi 5k - 2 (Main+redundant second copy) Bentley Manuals on hand,
>>Haynes and Chilton manuals used to hold Bentley Manual open to correct
>>pages while working
>>1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes - pre-Bentley Factory Manuals
>>on hand - in both English and German
>>(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
>>
>>
>>"The Murdock's" <darldm@mebtel.net> wrote in message
>>news:dr8ert01m8h@enews4.newsguy.com...
>>
>>>I am looking at a '90 100 which has an electrical problem. It has had the
>>>alternator replaced by the dealer but still drains the battery in less
>>>than 24 hours. Outside of completely rewiring what could be a probable
>>>cause? I've thought about pulling fuses one at a time until the problem
>>>ceases but not sure, without complete schematics, if this would isolate
>>>the problem to a system.
>>>
>>
>>
>
>

 

"The Murdock's" <darldm@mebtel.net> skrev i en meddelelse
news:dr8ert01m8h@enews4.newsguy.com...
>I am looking at a '90 100 which has an electrical problem. It has had the
>alternator replaced by the dealer but still drains the battery in less than
>24 hours. Outside of completely rewiring what could be a probable cause?
>I've thought about pulling fuses one at a time until the problem ceases but
>not sure, without complete schematics, if this would isolate the problem to
>a system.

Rewiring is only an option if the wiring is burned.

Pull one fuse at a time and measure if there is any current flowing in the
individual circuits, there is a fuse list on the fuse cover, some of the
fuse circuits may have a small current, but anything over 100 mA indicates
an error.

I have seen a similar problem caused by a defective boot lamp switch.

Greetings Aksel

 

"The Murdock's" <darldm@mebtel.net> skrev i en meddelelse
news:dr8ert01m8h@enews4.newsguy.com...
>I am looking at a '90 100 which has an electrical problem. It has had the
>alternator replaced by the dealer but still drains the battery in less than
>24 hours. Outside of completely rewiring what could be a probable cause?
>I've thought about pulling fuses one at a time until the problem ceases but
>not sure, without complete schematics, if this would isolate the problem to
>a system.

Rewiring is only an option if the wiring is burned.

Pull one fuse at a time and measure if there is any current flowing in the
individual circuits, there is a fuse list on the fuse cover, some of the
fuse circuits may have a small current, but anything over 100 mA indicates
an error.

I have seen a similar problem caused by a defective boot lamp switch.

Greetings Aksel

 

"The Murdock's" <darldm@mebtel.net> skrev i en meddelelse
news:dr8ert01m8h@enews4.newsguy.com...
>I am looking at a '90 100 which has an electrical problem. It has had the
>alternator replaced by the dealer but still drains the battery in less than
>24 hours. Outside of completely rewiring what could be a probable cause?
>I've thought about pulling fuses one at a time until the problem ceases but
>not sure, without complete schematics, if this would isolate the problem to
>a system.

Rewiring is only an option if the wiring is burned.

Pull one fuse at a time and measure if there is any current flowing in the
individual circuits, there is a fuse list on the fuse cover, some of the
fuse circuits may have a small current, but anything over 100 mA indicates
an error.

I have seen a similar problem caused by a defective boot lamp switch.

Greetings Aksel