Greetings

Wow, this is embarrassing... In January I wrote in asking for advice re
my brakes and promised I'd post a followup on the outcome of my prob.
Leaker that I am, I never did, partly because the issue went on for so
long--2-3 months--that I just lost touch. What happened was that after
replacing my master cylinder, I couldn't get my brakes bled. Well, I
could bleed them, but after a period of days to weeks I again had air in
the rear lines. I won't go into the gory details, but in the end it
appears the problem was a leak (a VACUUM leak??) at the clutch line
spigot. After I trimmed the hose end and put on a good hose clamp the
situation resolved. Oh, I also loosened the cap on the master cyl just
slightly. Got good brakes now.

Now I'm doing the front cv joints. I'm sure I just need the outers, but
whole axle assemblies are $75 whereas individual front outers are $135!
Likely the difference between new and reman. Since I've redone the front
suspension twice in the last 5 years, everything comes apart easy and I
know the tricks. I even got the bolts out of the inners with no
drama--no stripped heads or anything.

My problem now is I can't get the inners dislodged from their "cups" at
the tranny. Gotta be just rusted, right? Tonight I sprayed PBblaster
around the cups, and tomorrow if necessary (it will be I bet) I can
apply some heat with a propane torch.

Would anybody have any pertinent secrets to reveal? If I absolutely
can't get them apart I might have the option of disassembling the new
axles and just using the outer cv's. I hesitate to do that tho--With my
luck there'd be a snap ring issue or some such.

TIA

miguelito

 

I have had a problem like this and would say that after you are sure
that you have all the six bolts out of the inner and the axle isn't
binding on the outside (and free to move) try to hit the inner from the
side with a big hammer and rotated the axle to hit from different
locations. I think that the problem is likely to be caused by suction of
the grease in the mating surface rather than rust.

miguelito wrote:
> Greetings
>
> Wow, this is embarrassing... In January I wrote in asking for advice re
> my brakes and promised I'd post a followup on the outcome of my prob.
> Leaker that I am, I never did, partly because the issue went on for so
> long--2-3 months--that I just lost touch. What happened was that after
> replacing my master cylinder, I couldn't get my brakes bled. Well, I
> could bleed them, but after a period of days to weeks I again had air in
> the rear lines. I won't go into the gory details, but in the end it
> appears the problem was a leak (a VACUUM leak??) at the clutch line
> spigot. After I trimmed the hose end and put on a good hose clamp the
> situation resolved. Oh, I also loosened the cap on the master cyl just
> slightly. Got good brakes now.
>
> Now I'm doing the front cv joints. I'm sure I just need the outers, but
> whole axle assemblies are $75 whereas individual front outers are $135!
> Likely the difference between new and reman. Since I've redone the front
> suspension twice in the last 5 years, everything comes apart easy and I
> know the tricks. I even got the bolts out of the inners with no
> drama--no stripped heads or anything.
>
> My problem now is I can't get the inners dislodged from their "cups" at
> the tranny. Gotta be just rusted, right? Tonight I sprayed PBblaster
> around the cups, and tomorrow if necessary (it will be I bet) I can
> apply some heat with a propane torch.
>
> Would anybody have any pertinent secrets to reveal? If I absolutely
> can't get them apart I might have the option of disassembling the new
> axles and just using the outer cv's. I hesitate to do that tho--With my
> luck there'd be a snap ring issue or some such.
>
> TIA
>
> miguelito
>

 

In article <YsOdnbdFcPXSlf3XnZ2dnUVZ_judnZ2d@posted.visi>,
TonyJ <"tonyjnospam at nospam visi.com"> wrote:

> I have had a problem like this and would say that after you are sure
> that you have all the six bolts out of the inner and the axle isn't
> binding on the outside (and free to move) try to hit the inner from the
> side with a big hammer and rotated the axle to hit from different
> locations. I think that the problem is likely to be caused by suction of
> the grease in the mating surface rather than rust.

Thanks TonyJ. I've been concerned about bearing damage to the trans from
whacking on the cv from the side, but that's what I'll try. Cross my
heart, I will give feedback this time.

miguelito