2000 A4 1.8T Q repairs report and question
#11
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2000 A4 1.8T Q repairs report and question
TonyJ <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in
news:12pocnaigmfkq83@corp.supernews.com:
> So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was
> quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers
>
>
> b wrote:
>> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
> this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and
> Tstat had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T
> belts was replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner
> or water pump. Seriously, I would try to get my money back (lots of
> luck) and have the job done correctly by a competent Audi independent.
> If you do not do this you are running a very real risk of losing your
> engine >> $5K +++
>
> as well as
>> front brake pads and rotors ($500 at same place,
> Not surprising but several hundred more than I think it is worth. you
> can buy pads for $50 and rotors for $30 each. Labor is 45 minutes and
> easy to do.
>
> plus another $100 for
>> brake hydraulics system flush).
> OK but I wouldn't pay that. $5 for fluid and 30 minutes DIY.
>
> The odometer read 73k and the mechanic
>> recommended leaving the timing belt until at least 90k, but I didn't
>> feel like taking the chance.
> You were right. He was WRONG. Too bad he didn't know what he was
> doing. You are lucky he didn't miss the valve timing and trash the
> engine during the job.
>
>>
>> The mechanic also said there was no need to replace the water pump
>> nor the thermostat at this time, since 1. there were no signs of
>> upcoming failure,
> And what do you think he based that BS opinion upon? Get you in with
> your money and down the road as fast as possible.
>
> and more importantly, 2. replacing these items now wouldn't
>> save any time if they needed replacing later.
> Total BS. He is wrong again.
>
> I thought the thermostat
>> and water pump were recommended to be replaced at the same time
>> because it made sense while one was in there.
> Correct and failure to do them means that the job has not been done at
> all IMHO. Does he realize that he is not working on a Honda?
>
> Now that I look at the receipt,
>> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
>> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.
> Like I suggested. Pay to have it done again the right way or expect to
> loose your engine and a lot of money.
>
>>
>> Finally, they recommended a power steering system flush ($100),
> A good revenue padder for them but not a bad idea.
>
> a
>> cooling system flush ($150),
> Same
>
> and an air induction system cleaning
>> ($175).
> A what? BS! BS! BS!
>
> Maybe an air filter?
>
> Does anyone have an opinion on a. if these items should be
>> performed at or near this mileage/age,
> Audi owners feel the anything over 60K or fours years is pushing it on
> this maintenance.
>
> and b. if these are reasonable
>> prices?
> No.
>
>>
>> Thanks for the input,
>> Bill
>
Pete and Tony, thanks for the follow up. I definitely will confirm if
they changed the tensioner, and I'll find myself another mechanic, this
time one that knows Audi's!
news:12pocnaigmfkq83@corp.supernews.com:
> So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was
> quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers
>
>
> b wrote:
>> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
> this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and
> Tstat had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T
> belts was replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner
> or water pump. Seriously, I would try to get my money back (lots of
> luck) and have the job done correctly by a competent Audi independent.
> If you do not do this you are running a very real risk of losing your
> engine >> $5K +++
>
> as well as
>> front brake pads and rotors ($500 at same place,
> Not surprising but several hundred more than I think it is worth. you
> can buy pads for $50 and rotors for $30 each. Labor is 45 minutes and
> easy to do.
>
> plus another $100 for
>> brake hydraulics system flush).
> OK but I wouldn't pay that. $5 for fluid and 30 minutes DIY.
>
> The odometer read 73k and the mechanic
>> recommended leaving the timing belt until at least 90k, but I didn't
>> feel like taking the chance.
> You were right. He was WRONG. Too bad he didn't know what he was
> doing. You are lucky he didn't miss the valve timing and trash the
> engine during the job.
>
>>
>> The mechanic also said there was no need to replace the water pump
>> nor the thermostat at this time, since 1. there were no signs of
>> upcoming failure,
> And what do you think he based that BS opinion upon? Get you in with
> your money and down the road as fast as possible.
>
> and more importantly, 2. replacing these items now wouldn't
>> save any time if they needed replacing later.
> Total BS. He is wrong again.
>
> I thought the thermostat
>> and water pump were recommended to be replaced at the same time
>> because it made sense while one was in there.
> Correct and failure to do them means that the job has not been done at
> all IMHO. Does he realize that he is not working on a Honda?
>
> Now that I look at the receipt,
>> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
>> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.
> Like I suggested. Pay to have it done again the right way or expect to
> loose your engine and a lot of money.
>
>>
>> Finally, they recommended a power steering system flush ($100),
> A good revenue padder for them but not a bad idea.
>
> a
>> cooling system flush ($150),
> Same
>
> and an air induction system cleaning
>> ($175).
> A what? BS! BS! BS!
>
> Maybe an air filter?
>
> Does anyone have an opinion on a. if these items should be
>> performed at or near this mileage/age,
> Audi owners feel the anything over 60K or fours years is pushing it on
> this maintenance.
>
> and b. if these are reasonable
>> prices?
> No.
>
>>
>> Thanks for the input,
>> Bill
>
Pete and Tony, thanks for the follow up. I definitely will confirm if
they changed the tensioner, and I'll find myself another mechanic, this
time one that knows Audi's!
#12
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2000 A4 1.8T Q repairs report and question
TonyJ <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in
news:12pocnaigmfkq83@corp.supernews.com:
> So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was
> quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers
>
>
> b wrote:
>> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
> this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and
> Tstat had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T
> belts was replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner
> or water pump. Seriously, I would try to get my money back (lots of
> luck) and have the job done correctly by a competent Audi independent.
> If you do not do this you are running a very real risk of losing your
> engine >> $5K +++
>
> as well as
>> front brake pads and rotors ($500 at same place,
> Not surprising but several hundred more than I think it is worth. you
> can buy pads for $50 and rotors for $30 each. Labor is 45 minutes and
> easy to do.
>
> plus another $100 for
>> brake hydraulics system flush).
> OK but I wouldn't pay that. $5 for fluid and 30 minutes DIY.
>
> The odometer read 73k and the mechanic
>> recommended leaving the timing belt until at least 90k, but I didn't
>> feel like taking the chance.
> You were right. He was WRONG. Too bad he didn't know what he was
> doing. You are lucky he didn't miss the valve timing and trash the
> engine during the job.
>
>>
>> The mechanic also said there was no need to replace the water pump
>> nor the thermostat at this time, since 1. there were no signs of
>> upcoming failure,
> And what do you think he based that BS opinion upon? Get you in with
> your money and down the road as fast as possible.
>
> and more importantly, 2. replacing these items now wouldn't
>> save any time if they needed replacing later.
> Total BS. He is wrong again.
>
> I thought the thermostat
>> and water pump were recommended to be replaced at the same time
>> because it made sense while one was in there.
> Correct and failure to do them means that the job has not been done at
> all IMHO. Does he realize that he is not working on a Honda?
>
> Now that I look at the receipt,
>> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
>> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.
> Like I suggested. Pay to have it done again the right way or expect to
> loose your engine and a lot of money.
>
>>
>> Finally, they recommended a power steering system flush ($100),
> A good revenue padder for them but not a bad idea.
>
> a
>> cooling system flush ($150),
> Same
>
> and an air induction system cleaning
>> ($175).
> A what? BS! BS! BS!
>
> Maybe an air filter?
>
> Does anyone have an opinion on a. if these items should be
>> performed at or near this mileage/age,
> Audi owners feel the anything over 60K or fours years is pushing it on
> this maintenance.
>
> and b. if these are reasonable
>> prices?
> No.
>
>>
>> Thanks for the input,
>> Bill
>
Pete and Tony, thanks for the follow up. I definitely will confirm if
they changed the tensioner, and I'll find myself another mechanic, this
time one that knows Audi's!
news:12pocnaigmfkq83@corp.supernews.com:
> So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was
> quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers
>
>
> b wrote:
>> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
> this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and
> Tstat had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T
> belts was replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner
> or water pump. Seriously, I would try to get my money back (lots of
> luck) and have the job done correctly by a competent Audi independent.
> If you do not do this you are running a very real risk of losing your
> engine >> $5K +++
>
> as well as
>> front brake pads and rotors ($500 at same place,
> Not surprising but several hundred more than I think it is worth. you
> can buy pads for $50 and rotors for $30 each. Labor is 45 minutes and
> easy to do.
>
> plus another $100 for
>> brake hydraulics system flush).
> OK but I wouldn't pay that. $5 for fluid and 30 minutes DIY.
>
> The odometer read 73k and the mechanic
>> recommended leaving the timing belt until at least 90k, but I didn't
>> feel like taking the chance.
> You were right. He was WRONG. Too bad he didn't know what he was
> doing. You are lucky he didn't miss the valve timing and trash the
> engine during the job.
>
>>
>> The mechanic also said there was no need to replace the water pump
>> nor the thermostat at this time, since 1. there were no signs of
>> upcoming failure,
> And what do you think he based that BS opinion upon? Get you in with
> your money and down the road as fast as possible.
>
> and more importantly, 2. replacing these items now wouldn't
>> save any time if they needed replacing later.
> Total BS. He is wrong again.
>
> I thought the thermostat
>> and water pump were recommended to be replaced at the same time
>> because it made sense while one was in there.
> Correct and failure to do them means that the job has not been done at
> all IMHO. Does he realize that he is not working on a Honda?
>
> Now that I look at the receipt,
>> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
>> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.
> Like I suggested. Pay to have it done again the right way or expect to
> loose your engine and a lot of money.
>
>>
>> Finally, they recommended a power steering system flush ($100),
> A good revenue padder for them but not a bad idea.
>
> a
>> cooling system flush ($150),
> Same
>
> and an air induction system cleaning
>> ($175).
> A what? BS! BS! BS!
>
> Maybe an air filter?
>
> Does anyone have an opinion on a. if these items should be
>> performed at or near this mileage/age,
> Audi owners feel the anything over 60K or fours years is pushing it on
> this maintenance.
>
> and b. if these are reasonable
>> prices?
> No.
>
>>
>> Thanks for the input,
>> Bill
>
Pete and Tony, thanks for the follow up. I definitely will confirm if
they changed the tensioner, and I'll find myself another mechanic, this
time one that knows Audi's!
#13
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2000 A4 1.8T Q repairs report and question
TonyJ <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in
news:12pocnaigmfkq83@corp.supernews.com:
> So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was
> quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers
>
>
> b wrote:
>> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
> this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and
> Tstat had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T
> belts was replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner
> or water pump. Seriously, I would try to get my money back (lots of
> luck) and have the job done correctly by a competent Audi independent.
> If you do not do this you are running a very real risk of losing your
> engine >> $5K +++
>
> as well as
>> front brake pads and rotors ($500 at same place,
> Not surprising but several hundred more than I think it is worth. you
> can buy pads for $50 and rotors for $30 each. Labor is 45 minutes and
> easy to do.
>
> plus another $100 for
>> brake hydraulics system flush).
> OK but I wouldn't pay that. $5 for fluid and 30 minutes DIY.
>
> The odometer read 73k and the mechanic
>> recommended leaving the timing belt until at least 90k, but I didn't
>> feel like taking the chance.
> You were right. He was WRONG. Too bad he didn't know what he was
> doing. You are lucky he didn't miss the valve timing and trash the
> engine during the job.
>
>>
>> The mechanic also said there was no need to replace the water pump
>> nor the thermostat at this time, since 1. there were no signs of
>> upcoming failure,
> And what do you think he based that BS opinion upon? Get you in with
> your money and down the road as fast as possible.
>
> and more importantly, 2. replacing these items now wouldn't
>> save any time if they needed replacing later.
> Total BS. He is wrong again.
>
> I thought the thermostat
>> and water pump were recommended to be replaced at the same time
>> because it made sense while one was in there.
> Correct and failure to do them means that the job has not been done at
> all IMHO. Does he realize that he is not working on a Honda?
>
> Now that I look at the receipt,
>> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
>> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.
> Like I suggested. Pay to have it done again the right way or expect to
> loose your engine and a lot of money.
>
>>
>> Finally, they recommended a power steering system flush ($100),
> A good revenue padder for them but not a bad idea.
>
> a
>> cooling system flush ($150),
> Same
>
> and an air induction system cleaning
>> ($175).
> A what? BS! BS! BS!
>
> Maybe an air filter?
>
> Does anyone have an opinion on a. if these items should be
>> performed at or near this mileage/age,
> Audi owners feel the anything over 60K or fours years is pushing it on
> this maintenance.
>
> and b. if these are reasonable
>> prices?
> No.
>
>>
>> Thanks for the input,
>> Bill
>
Pete and Tony, thanks for the follow up. I definitely will confirm if
they changed the tensioner, and I'll find myself another mechanic, this
time one that knows Audi's!
news:12pocnaigmfkq83@corp.supernews.com:
> So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was
> quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers
>
>
> b wrote:
>> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
> this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and
> Tstat had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T
> belts was replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner
> or water pump. Seriously, I would try to get my money back (lots of
> luck) and have the job done correctly by a competent Audi independent.
> If you do not do this you are running a very real risk of losing your
> engine >> $5K +++
>
> as well as
>> front brake pads and rotors ($500 at same place,
> Not surprising but several hundred more than I think it is worth. you
> can buy pads for $50 and rotors for $30 each. Labor is 45 minutes and
> easy to do.
>
> plus another $100 for
>> brake hydraulics system flush).
> OK but I wouldn't pay that. $5 for fluid and 30 minutes DIY.
>
> The odometer read 73k and the mechanic
>> recommended leaving the timing belt until at least 90k, but I didn't
>> feel like taking the chance.
> You were right. He was WRONG. Too bad he didn't know what he was
> doing. You are lucky he didn't miss the valve timing and trash the
> engine during the job.
>
>>
>> The mechanic also said there was no need to replace the water pump
>> nor the thermostat at this time, since 1. there were no signs of
>> upcoming failure,
> And what do you think he based that BS opinion upon? Get you in with
> your money and down the road as fast as possible.
>
> and more importantly, 2. replacing these items now wouldn't
>> save any time if they needed replacing later.
> Total BS. He is wrong again.
>
> I thought the thermostat
>> and water pump were recommended to be replaced at the same time
>> because it made sense while one was in there.
> Correct and failure to do them means that the job has not been done at
> all IMHO. Does he realize that he is not working on a Honda?
>
> Now that I look at the receipt,
>> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
>> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.
> Like I suggested. Pay to have it done again the right way or expect to
> loose your engine and a lot of money.
>
>>
>> Finally, they recommended a power steering system flush ($100),
> A good revenue padder for them but not a bad idea.
>
> a
>> cooling system flush ($150),
> Same
>
> and an air induction system cleaning
>> ($175).
> A what? BS! BS! BS!
>
> Maybe an air filter?
>
> Does anyone have an opinion on a. if these items should be
>> performed at or near this mileage/age,
> Audi owners feel the anything over 60K or fours years is pushing it on
> this maintenance.
>
> and b. if these are reasonable
>> prices?
> No.
>
>>
>> Thanks for the input,
>> Bill
>
Pete and Tony, thanks for the follow up. I definitely will confirm if
they changed the tensioner, and I'll find myself another mechanic, this
time one that knows Audi's!
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2000 A4 1.8T Q repairs report and question
"TonyJ" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:12pocnaigmfkq83@corp.supernews.com...
> So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was
> quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers
>
>
> b wrote:
>> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
> this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and Tstat
> had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T belts was
> replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner or water pump.
> Seriously, I
snip
So have any changes been made to the design of the water pump and tensioner
so that we can go longer on the TB change the next time?
--Art
#15
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2000 A4 1.8T Q repairs report and question
"TonyJ" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:12pocnaigmfkq83@corp.supernews.com...
> So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was
> quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers
>
>
> b wrote:
>> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
> this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and Tstat
> had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T belts was
> replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner or water pump.
> Seriously, I
snip
So have any changes been made to the design of the water pump and tensioner
so that we can go longer on the TB change the next time?
--Art
#16
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2000 A4 1.8T Q repairs report and question
"TonyJ" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:12pocnaigmfkq83@corp.supernews.com...
> So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was
> quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers
>
>
> b wrote:
>> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
> this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and Tstat
> had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T belts was
> replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner or water pump.
> Seriously, I
snip
So have any changes been made to the design of the water pump and tensioner
so that we can go longer on the TB change the next time?
--Art
#17
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2000 A4 1.8T Q repairs report and question
"TonyJ" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
news:12pocnaigmfkq83@corp.supernews.com...
> So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was
> quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers
>
>
> b wrote:
>> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
> this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and Tstat
> had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T belts was
> replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner or water pump.
> Seriously, I
snip
So have any changes been made to the design of the water pump and tensioner
so that we can go longer on the TB change the next time?
--Art
#18
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2000 A4 1.8T Q repairs report and question
Art M wrote:
> "TonyJ" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
> news:12pocnaigmfkq83@corp.supernews.com...
>
>>So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was
>>quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers
>>
>>
>>b wrote:
>>
>>>I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
>>
>>this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and Tstat
>>had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T belts was
>>replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner or water pump.
>>Seriously, I
>
> snip
>
> So have any changes been made to the design of the water pump and tensioner
> so that we can go longer on the TB change the next time?
>
> --Art
>
>
The tensionser has been redesigned and is more dependable than the origional one.
Most of the water pumps from the factory have plastic impellers. Always replace
with a pump that has a metal impeller.
#19
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2000 A4 1.8T Q repairs report and question
Art M wrote:
> "TonyJ" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
> news:12pocnaigmfkq83@corp.supernews.com...
>
>>So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was
>>quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers
>>
>>
>>b wrote:
>>
>>>I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
>>
>>this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and Tstat
>>had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T belts was
>>replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner or water pump.
>>Seriously, I
>
> snip
>
> So have any changes been made to the design of the water pump and tensioner
> so that we can go longer on the TB change the next time?
>
> --Art
>
>
The tensionser has been redesigned and is more dependable than the origional one.
Most of the water pumps from the factory have plastic impellers. Always replace
with a pump that has a metal impeller.
#20
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 2000 A4 1.8T Q repairs report and question
Art M wrote:
> "TonyJ" <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in message
> news:12pocnaigmfkq83@corp.supernews.com...
>
>>So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was
>>quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers
>>
>>
>>b wrote:
>>
>>>I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
>>
>>this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and Tstat
>>had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T belts was
>>replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner or water pump.
>>Seriously, I
>
> snip
>
> So have any changes been made to the design of the water pump and tensioner
> so that we can go longer on the TB change the next time?
>
> --Art
>
>
The tensionser has been redesigned and is more dependable than the origional one.
Most of the water pumps from the factory have plastic impellers. Always replace
with a pump that has a metal impeller.