I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent) as well as
front brake pads and rotors ($500 at same place, plus another $100 for
brake hydraulics system flush). The odometer read 73k and the mechanic
recommended leaving the timing belt until at least 90k, but I didn't
feel like taking the chance.

The mechanic also said there was no need to replace the water pump nor
the thermostat at this time, since 1. there were no signs of upcoming
failure, and more importantly, 2. replacing these items now wouldn't
save any time if they needed replacing later. I thought the thermostat
and water pump were recommended to be replaced at the same time because
it made sense while one was in there. Now that I look at the receipt,
it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.

Finally, they recommended a power steering system flush ($100), a
cooling system flush ($150), and an air induction system cleaning
($175). Does anyone have an opinion on a. if these items should be
performed at or near this mileage/age, and b. if these are reasonable
prices?

Thanks for the input,
Bill

 

"b" wrote
> Now that I look at the receipt,
> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.

You better double check on this, as it is actually the tensioner that is the
cause of all the premature timing belt failures on the 1.8T engines. So,
the tensioner needs replacing more than the belt itself.

However, a knowledgeable shop would replace the tensioner and rollers along
with the belt. Then again, a knowledgeable shop would not tell you to wait
at least unitl 90K miles to have it done in the first place.

Pete

 

"b" wrote
> Now that I look at the receipt,
> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.

You better double check on this, as it is actually the tensioner that is the
cause of all the premature timing belt failures on the 1.8T engines. So,
the tensioner needs replacing more than the belt itself.

However, a knowledgeable shop would replace the tensioner and rollers along
with the belt. Then again, a knowledgeable shop would not tell you to wait
at least unitl 90K miles to have it done in the first place.

Pete

 

"b" wrote
> Now that I look at the receipt,
> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.

You better double check on this, as it is actually the tensioner that is the
cause of all the premature timing belt failures on the 1.8T engines. So,
the tensioner needs replacing more than the belt itself.

However, a knowledgeable shop would replace the tensioner and rollers along
with the belt. Then again, a knowledgeable shop would not tell you to wait
at least unitl 90K miles to have it done in the first place.

Pete

 

"b" wrote
> Now that I look at the receipt,
> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.

You better double check on this, as it is actually the tensioner that is the
cause of all the premature timing belt failures on the 1.8T engines. So,
the tensioner needs replacing more than the belt itself.

However, a knowledgeable shop would replace the tensioner and rollers along
with the belt. Then again, a knowledgeable shop would not tell you to wait
at least unitl 90K miles to have it done in the first place.

Pete

 

So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was quite
adept at swindling unsuspecting customers


b wrote:
> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and Tstat had
also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T belts was replaced as
the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner or water pump. Seriously, I
would try to get my money back (lots of luck) and have the job done correctly by
a competent Audi independent. If you do not do this you are running a very real
risk of losing your engine >> $5K +++

as well as
> front brake pads and rotors ($500 at same place,
Not surprising but several hundred more than I think it is worth. you can buy
pads for $50 and rotors for $30 each. Labor is 45 minutes and easy to do.

plus another $100 for
> brake hydraulics system flush).
OK but I wouldn't pay that. $5 for fluid and 30 minutes DIY.

The odometer read 73k and the mechanic
> recommended leaving the timing belt until at least 90k, but I didn't
> feel like taking the chance.
You were right. He was WRONG. Too bad he didn't know what he was doing. You are
lucky he didn't miss the valve timing and trash the engine during the job.

>
> The mechanic also said there was no need to replace the water pump nor
> the thermostat at this time, since 1. there were no signs of upcoming
> failure,
And what do you think he based that BS opinion upon? Get you in with your money
and down the road as fast as possible.

and more importantly, 2. replacing these items now wouldn't
> save any time if they needed replacing later.
Total BS. He is wrong again.

I thought the thermostat
> and water pump were recommended to be replaced at the same time because
> it made sense while one was in there.
Correct and failure to do them means that the job has not been done at all IMHO.
Does he realize that he is not working on a Honda?

Now that I look at the receipt,
> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.
Like I suggested. Pay to have it done again the right way or expect to loose
your engine and a lot of money.

>
> Finally, they recommended a power steering system flush ($100),
A good revenue padder for them but not a bad idea.

a
> cooling system flush ($150),
Same

and an air induction system cleaning
> ($175).
A what? BS! BS! BS!

Maybe an air filter?

Does anyone have an opinion on a. if these items should be
> performed at or near this mileage/age,
Audi owners feel the anything over 60K or fours years is pushing it on this
maintenance.

and b. if these are reasonable
> prices?
No.

>
> Thanks for the input,
> Bill

 

So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was quite
adept at swindling unsuspecting customers


b wrote:
> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and Tstat had
also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T belts was replaced as
the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner or water pump. Seriously, I
would try to get my money back (lots of luck) and have the job done correctly by
a competent Audi independent. If you do not do this you are running a very real
risk of losing your engine >> $5K +++

as well as
> front brake pads and rotors ($500 at same place,
Not surprising but several hundred more than I think it is worth. you can buy
pads for $50 and rotors for $30 each. Labor is 45 minutes and easy to do.

plus another $100 for
> brake hydraulics system flush).
OK but I wouldn't pay that. $5 for fluid and 30 minutes DIY.

The odometer read 73k and the mechanic
> recommended leaving the timing belt until at least 90k, but I didn't
> feel like taking the chance.
You were right. He was WRONG. Too bad he didn't know what he was doing. You are
lucky he didn't miss the valve timing and trash the engine during the job.

>
> The mechanic also said there was no need to replace the water pump nor
> the thermostat at this time, since 1. there were no signs of upcoming
> failure,
And what do you think he based that BS opinion upon? Get you in with your money
and down the road as fast as possible.

and more importantly, 2. replacing these items now wouldn't
> save any time if they needed replacing later.
Total BS. He is wrong again.

I thought the thermostat
> and water pump were recommended to be replaced at the same time because
> it made sense while one was in there.
Correct and failure to do them means that the job has not been done at all IMHO.
Does he realize that he is not working on a Honda?

Now that I look at the receipt,
> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.
Like I suggested. Pay to have it done again the right way or expect to loose
your engine and a lot of money.

>
> Finally, they recommended a power steering system flush ($100),
A good revenue padder for them but not a bad idea.

a
> cooling system flush ($150),
Same

and an air induction system cleaning
> ($175).
A what? BS! BS! BS!

Maybe an air filter?

Does anyone have an opinion on a. if these items should be
> performed at or near this mileage/age,
Audi owners feel the anything over 60K or fours years is pushing it on this
maintenance.

and b. if these are reasonable
> prices?
No.

>
> Thanks for the input,
> Bill

 

So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was quite
adept at swindling unsuspecting customers


b wrote:
> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and Tstat had
also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T belts was replaced as
the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner or water pump. Seriously, I
would try to get my money back (lots of luck) and have the job done correctly by
a competent Audi independent. If you do not do this you are running a very real
risk of losing your engine >> $5K +++

as well as
> front brake pads and rotors ($500 at same place,
Not surprising but several hundred more than I think it is worth. you can buy
pads for $50 and rotors for $30 each. Labor is 45 minutes and easy to do.

plus another $100 for
> brake hydraulics system flush).
OK but I wouldn't pay that. $5 for fluid and 30 minutes DIY.

The odometer read 73k and the mechanic
> recommended leaving the timing belt until at least 90k, but I didn't
> feel like taking the chance.
You were right. He was WRONG. Too bad he didn't know what he was doing. You are
lucky he didn't miss the valve timing and trash the engine during the job.

>
> The mechanic also said there was no need to replace the water pump nor
> the thermostat at this time, since 1. there were no signs of upcoming
> failure,
And what do you think he based that BS opinion upon? Get you in with your money
and down the road as fast as possible.

and more importantly, 2. replacing these items now wouldn't
> save any time if they needed replacing later.
Total BS. He is wrong again.

I thought the thermostat
> and water pump were recommended to be replaced at the same time because
> it made sense while one was in there.
Correct and failure to do them means that the job has not been done at all IMHO.
Does he realize that he is not working on a Honda?

Now that I look at the receipt,
> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.
Like I suggested. Pay to have it done again the right way or expect to loose
your engine and a lot of money.

>
> Finally, they recommended a power steering system flush ($100),
A good revenue padder for them but not a bad idea.

a
> cooling system flush ($150),
Same

and an air induction system cleaning
> ($175).
A what? BS! BS! BS!

Maybe an air filter?

Does anyone have an opinion on a. if these items should be
> performed at or near this mileage/age,
Audi owners feel the anything over 60K or fours years is pushing it on this
maintenance.

and b. if these are reasonable
> prices?
No.

>
> Thanks for the input,
> Bill

 

So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was quite
adept at swindling unsuspecting customers


b wrote:
> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and Tstat had
also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T belts was replaced as
the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner or water pump. Seriously, I
would try to get my money back (lots of luck) and have the job done correctly by
a competent Audi independent. If you do not do this you are running a very real
risk of losing your engine >> $5K +++

as well as
> front brake pads and rotors ($500 at same place,
Not surprising but several hundred more than I think it is worth. you can buy
pads for $50 and rotors for $30 each. Labor is 45 minutes and easy to do.

plus another $100 for
> brake hydraulics system flush).
OK but I wouldn't pay that. $5 for fluid and 30 minutes DIY.

The odometer read 73k and the mechanic
> recommended leaving the timing belt until at least 90k, but I didn't
> feel like taking the chance.
You were right. He was WRONG. Too bad he didn't know what he was doing. You are
lucky he didn't miss the valve timing and trash the engine during the job.

>
> The mechanic also said there was no need to replace the water pump nor
> the thermostat at this time, since 1. there were no signs of upcoming
> failure,
And what do you think he based that BS opinion upon? Get you in with your money
and down the road as fast as possible.

and more importantly, 2. replacing these items now wouldn't
> save any time if they needed replacing later.
Total BS. He is wrong again.

I thought the thermostat
> and water pump were recommended to be replaced at the same time because
> it made sense while one was in there.
Correct and failure to do them means that the job has not been done at all IMHO.
Does he realize that he is not working on a Honda?

Now that I look at the receipt,
> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.
Like I suggested. Pay to have it done again the right way or expect to loose
your engine and a lot of money.

>
> Finally, they recommended a power steering system flush ($100),
A good revenue padder for them but not a bad idea.

a
> cooling system flush ($150),
Same

and an air induction system cleaning
> ($175).
A what? BS! BS! BS!

Maybe an air filter?

Does anyone have an opinion on a. if these items should be
> performed at or near this mileage/age,
Audi owners feel the anything over 60K or fours years is pushing it on this
maintenance.

and b. if these are reasonable
> prices?
No.

>
> Thanks for the input,
> Bill

 

TonyJ <tonyjnospam@nospamvisi.com> wrote in
news:12pocnaigmfkq83@corp.supernews.com:

> So, you ran into a monkey that didn't have any Audi experience as was
> quite adept at swindling unsuspecting customers
>
>
> b wrote:
>> I just got my timing belt replaced ($700 at independent)
> this would have been a fair price if the water pump, tensioner and
> Tstat had also been replaced. It was a waste of $700 if only the T
> belts was replaced as the failure mode is more commonly the tensioner
> or water pump. Seriously, I would try to get my money back (lots of
> luck) and have the job done correctly by a competent Audi independent.
> If you do not do this you are running a very real risk of losing your
> engine >> $5K +++
>
> as well as
>> front brake pads and rotors ($500 at same place,
> Not surprising but several hundred more than I think it is worth. you
> can buy pads for $50 and rotors for $30 each. Labor is 45 minutes and
> easy to do.
>
> plus another $100 for
>> brake hydraulics system flush).
> OK but I wouldn't pay that. $5 for fluid and 30 minutes DIY.
>
> The odometer read 73k and the mechanic
>> recommended leaving the timing belt until at least 90k, but I didn't
>> feel like taking the chance.
> You were right. He was WRONG. Too bad he didn't know what he was
> doing. You are lucky he didn't miss the valve timing and trash the
> engine during the job.
>
>>
>> The mechanic also said there was no need to replace the water pump
>> nor the thermostat at this time, since 1. there were no signs of
>> upcoming failure,
> And what do you think he based that BS opinion upon? Get you in with
> your money and down the road as fast as possible.
>
> and more importantly, 2. replacing these items now wouldn't
>> save any time if they needed replacing later.
> Total BS. He is wrong again.
>
> I thought the thermostat
>> and water pump were recommended to be replaced at the same time
>> because it made sense while one was in there.
> Correct and failure to do them means that the job has not been done at
> all IMHO. Does he realize that he is not working on a Honda?
>
> Now that I look at the receipt,
>> it appears they didn't touch the tensioner either, although I am just
>> assuming now since it doesn't appear on the parts list.
> Like I suggested. Pay to have it done again the right way or expect to
> loose your engine and a lot of money.
>
>>
>> Finally, they recommended a power steering system flush ($100),
> A good revenue padder for them but not a bad idea.
>
> a
>> cooling system flush ($150),
> Same
>
> and an air induction system cleaning
>> ($175).
> A what? BS! BS! BS!
>
> Maybe an air filter?
>
> Does anyone have an opinion on a. if these items should be
>> performed at or near this mileage/age,
> Audi owners feel the anything over 60K or fours years is pushing it on
> this maintenance.
>
> and b. if these are reasonable
>> prices?
> No.
>
>>
>> Thanks for the input,
>> Bill
>

Pete and Tony, thanks for the follow up. I definitely will confirm if
they changed the tensioner, and I'll find myself another mechanic, this
time one that knows Audi's!