1992 Audi 80 2.0E - ticking when warm
#21
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1992 Audi 80 2.0E - ticking when warm
My 1988 A100 has the tappet problem occasionally. Strangely it always
does it on the journey home from Speedway! This particular journey is
usually at night (so cool) and starts with queuing. After I clear the
queue I can hear it clicking for about 1 mile before it clears. Don't
know if there's some theory behind that.
When I first got my car a mechanic said sounds like a cracked exhaust
manifold. So I investigated and indeed it was. A broken studd too.
Horrible job fixing that. This was many years ago but I seem to remember
that noise was a little louder than the tappets one. More of a slap than
a tap. This noise was worse when cold too. I'm guessing expansion in the
heat closes up any gaps.
Gary
does it on the journey home from Speedway! This particular journey is
usually at night (so cool) and starts with queuing. After I clear the
queue I can hear it clicking for about 1 mile before it clears. Don't
know if there's some theory behind that.
When I first got my car a mechanic said sounds like a cracked exhaust
manifold. So I investigated and indeed it was. A broken studd too.
Horrible job fixing that. This was many years ago but I seem to remember
that noise was a little louder than the tappets one. More of a slap than
a tap. This noise was worse when cold too. I'm guessing expansion in the
heat closes up any gaps.
Gary
#22
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1992 Audi 80 2.0E - ticking when warm
My 1988 A100 has the tappet problem occasionally. Strangely it always
does it on the journey home from Speedway! This particular journey is
usually at night (so cool) and starts with queuing. After I clear the
queue I can hear it clicking for about 1 mile before it clears. Don't
know if there's some theory behind that.
When I first got my car a mechanic said sounds like a cracked exhaust
manifold. So I investigated and indeed it was. A broken studd too.
Horrible job fixing that. This was many years ago but I seem to remember
that noise was a little louder than the tappets one. More of a slap than
a tap. This noise was worse when cold too. I'm guessing expansion in the
heat closes up any gaps.
Gary
does it on the journey home from Speedway! This particular journey is
usually at night (so cool) and starts with queuing. After I clear the
queue I can hear it clicking for about 1 mile before it clears. Don't
know if there's some theory behind that.
When I first got my car a mechanic said sounds like a cracked exhaust
manifold. So I investigated and indeed it was. A broken studd too.
Horrible job fixing that. This was many years ago but I seem to remember
that noise was a little louder than the tappets one. More of a slap than
a tap. This noise was worse when cold too. I'm guessing expansion in the
heat closes up any gaps.
Gary
#23
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1992 Audi 80 2.0E - ticking when warm
Rather than experimenting with filters I would suggest that you buy the Audi OEM
filter (Mahle). They support a higher volume of oil flow than most after market
filters which may, very well be, be one source of the problem. They will cost
very little more than after market filters.
Tony
Christoph Bollig wrote:
> Hi Steve,
>
>
>>Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy lifters
>>when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper filter
>>(with a check valve) helped somewhat - I also used an engine flush which
>>helped immensely, and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
>>every oil fill. I've heard some Audis that sound like they have a
>>typewriter under the hood - the common advice is that it won't hurt the
>>engine, just your pride when every pedestrian turns to see your clattering
>>car. If it worries you so much, the hydraulic tappets are fairly easy to
>>replace (just pull the camshaft and replace the tappets), and not too
>>expensive to buy. Since the job involves releasing the timing belt - you
>>could change it as well while you're in there...
>
>
> Thanks for the advice. I will probably try to play around with the
> engine flush and type of oil. I don't feel comfortable (yet) to mess
> around with the camshaft and valves yet.
>
> Christoph
>
filter (Mahle). They support a higher volume of oil flow than most after market
filters which may, very well be, be one source of the problem. They will cost
very little more than after market filters.
Tony
Christoph Bollig wrote:
> Hi Steve,
>
>
>>Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy lifters
>>when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper filter
>>(with a check valve) helped somewhat - I also used an engine flush which
>>helped immensely, and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
>>every oil fill. I've heard some Audis that sound like they have a
>>typewriter under the hood - the common advice is that it won't hurt the
>>engine, just your pride when every pedestrian turns to see your clattering
>>car. If it worries you so much, the hydraulic tappets are fairly easy to
>>replace (just pull the camshaft and replace the tappets), and not too
>>expensive to buy. Since the job involves releasing the timing belt - you
>>could change it as well while you're in there...
>
>
> Thanks for the advice. I will probably try to play around with the
> engine flush and type of oil. I don't feel comfortable (yet) to mess
> around with the camshaft and valves yet.
>
> Christoph
>
#24
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1992 Audi 80 2.0E - ticking when warm
Rather than experimenting with filters I would suggest that you buy the Audi OEM
filter (Mahle). They support a higher volume of oil flow than most after market
filters which may, very well be, be one source of the problem. They will cost
very little more than after market filters.
Tony
Christoph Bollig wrote:
> Hi Steve,
>
>
>>Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy lifters
>>when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper filter
>>(with a check valve) helped somewhat - I also used an engine flush which
>>helped immensely, and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
>>every oil fill. I've heard some Audis that sound like they have a
>>typewriter under the hood - the common advice is that it won't hurt the
>>engine, just your pride when every pedestrian turns to see your clattering
>>car. If it worries you so much, the hydraulic tappets are fairly easy to
>>replace (just pull the camshaft and replace the tappets), and not too
>>expensive to buy. Since the job involves releasing the timing belt - you
>>could change it as well while you're in there...
>
>
> Thanks for the advice. I will probably try to play around with the
> engine flush and type of oil. I don't feel comfortable (yet) to mess
> around with the camshaft and valves yet.
>
> Christoph
>
filter (Mahle). They support a higher volume of oil flow than most after market
filters which may, very well be, be one source of the problem. They will cost
very little more than after market filters.
Tony
Christoph Bollig wrote:
> Hi Steve,
>
>
>>Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy lifters
>>when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper filter
>>(with a check valve) helped somewhat - I also used an engine flush which
>>helped immensely, and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
>>every oil fill. I've heard some Audis that sound like they have a
>>typewriter under the hood - the common advice is that it won't hurt the
>>engine, just your pride when every pedestrian turns to see your clattering
>>car. If it worries you so much, the hydraulic tappets are fairly easy to
>>replace (just pull the camshaft and replace the tappets), and not too
>>expensive to buy. Since the job involves releasing the timing belt - you
>>could change it as well while you're in there...
>
>
> Thanks for the advice. I will probably try to play around with the
> engine flush and type of oil. I don't feel comfortable (yet) to mess
> around with the camshaft and valves yet.
>
> Christoph
>
#25
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: 1992 Audi 80 2.0E - ticking when warm
Rather than experimenting with filters I would suggest that you buy the Audi OEM
filter (Mahle). They support a higher volume of oil flow than most after market
filters which may, very well be, be one source of the problem. They will cost
very little more than after market filters.
Tony
Christoph Bollig wrote:
> Hi Steve,
>
>
>>Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy lifters
>>when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper filter
>>(with a check valve) helped somewhat - I also used an engine flush which
>>helped immensely, and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
>>every oil fill. I've heard some Audis that sound like they have a
>>typewriter under the hood - the common advice is that it won't hurt the
>>engine, just your pride when every pedestrian turns to see your clattering
>>car. If it worries you so much, the hydraulic tappets are fairly easy to
>>replace (just pull the camshaft and replace the tappets), and not too
>>expensive to buy. Since the job involves releasing the timing belt - you
>>could change it as well while you're in there...
>
>
> Thanks for the advice. I will probably try to play around with the
> engine flush and type of oil. I don't feel comfortable (yet) to mess
> around with the camshaft and valves yet.
>
> Christoph
>
filter (Mahle). They support a higher volume of oil flow than most after market
filters which may, very well be, be one source of the problem. They will cost
very little more than after market filters.
Tony
Christoph Bollig wrote:
> Hi Steve,
>
>
>>Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy lifters
>>when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper filter
>>(with a check valve) helped somewhat - I also used an engine flush which
>>helped immensely, and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
>>every oil fill. I've heard some Audis that sound like they have a
>>typewriter under the hood - the common advice is that it won't hurt the
>>engine, just your pride when every pedestrian turns to see your clattering
>>car. If it worries you so much, the hydraulic tappets are fairly easy to
>>replace (just pull the camshaft and replace the tappets), and not too
>>expensive to buy. Since the job involves releasing the timing belt - you
>>could change it as well while you're in there...
>
>
> Thanks for the advice. I will probably try to play around with the
> engine flush and type of oil. I don't feel comfortable (yet) to mess
> around with the camshaft and valves yet.
>
> Christoph
>
#26
Guest
Posts: n/a
Audi100, '88 hydrolic valve lifters (was: Re: 1992 Audi 80 2.0E - ticking when warm)
Hi again,
Just to make sure I understand this correctly:
> Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy lifters
> when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper filter
> (with a check valve) helped somewhat -
Do you mean the oil filter? I didn't know there were any with or
without check valve.
> I also used an engine flush which
> helped immensely,
I asked someone at a spares shop today who used to work for Audi/VW.
He thought an engine flush is not a good idea at such a high mileage
(220 k km), since it would remove some of the carbon which holds the
oil in place.
> and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
> every oil fill.
I don't know whether that's available here, will have to check.
Thanks anyway, I will keep you updated.
Christoph
--
Important: Emails sent to me which contain my full name
in the "to:" or "cc:" field will bypass my spam filter.
With most programs "Reply" should do the job.
Just to make sure I understand this correctly:
> Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy lifters
> when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper filter
> (with a check valve) helped somewhat -
Do you mean the oil filter? I didn't know there were any with or
without check valve.
> I also used an engine flush which
> helped immensely,
I asked someone at a spares shop today who used to work for Audi/VW.
He thought an engine flush is not a good idea at such a high mileage
(220 k km), since it would remove some of the carbon which holds the
oil in place.
> and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
> every oil fill.
I don't know whether that's available here, will have to check.
Thanks anyway, I will keep you updated.
Christoph
--
Important: Emails sent to me which contain my full name
in the "to:" or "cc:" field will bypass my spam filter.
With most programs "Reply" should do the job.
#27
Guest
Posts: n/a
Audi100, '88 hydrolic valve lifters (was: Re: 1992 Audi 80 2.0E - ticking when warm)
Hi again,
Just to make sure I understand this correctly:
> Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy lifters
> when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper filter
> (with a check valve) helped somewhat -
Do you mean the oil filter? I didn't know there were any with or
without check valve.
> I also used an engine flush which
> helped immensely,
I asked someone at a spares shop today who used to work for Audi/VW.
He thought an engine flush is not a good idea at such a high mileage
(220 k km), since it would remove some of the carbon which holds the
oil in place.
> and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
> every oil fill.
I don't know whether that's available here, will have to check.
Thanks anyway, I will keep you updated.
Christoph
--
Important: Emails sent to me which contain my full name
in the "to:" or "cc:" field will bypass my spam filter.
With most programs "Reply" should do the job.
Just to make sure I understand this correctly:
> Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy lifters
> when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper filter
> (with a check valve) helped somewhat -
Do you mean the oil filter? I didn't know there were any with or
without check valve.
> I also used an engine flush which
> helped immensely,
I asked someone at a spares shop today who used to work for Audi/VW.
He thought an engine flush is not a good idea at such a high mileage
(220 k km), since it would remove some of the carbon which holds the
oil in place.
> and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
> every oil fill.
I don't know whether that's available here, will have to check.
Thanks anyway, I will keep you updated.
Christoph
--
Important: Emails sent to me which contain my full name
in the "to:" or "cc:" field will bypass my spam filter.
With most programs "Reply" should do the job.
#28
Guest
Posts: n/a
Audi100, '88 hydrolic valve lifters (was: Re: 1992 Audi 80 2.0E - ticking when warm)
Hi again,
Just to make sure I understand this correctly:
> Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy lifters
> when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper filter
> (with a check valve) helped somewhat -
Do you mean the oil filter? I didn't know there were any with or
without check valve.
> I also used an engine flush which
> helped immensely,
I asked someone at a spares shop today who used to work for Audi/VW.
He thought an engine flush is not a good idea at such a high mileage
(220 k km), since it would remove some of the carbon which holds the
oil in place.
> and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
> every oil fill.
I don't know whether that's available here, will have to check.
Thanks anyway, I will keep you updated.
Christoph
--
Important: Emails sent to me which contain my full name
in the "to:" or "cc:" field will bypass my spam filter.
With most programs "Reply" should do the job.
Just to make sure I understand this correctly:
> Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy lifters
> when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper filter
> (with a check valve) helped somewhat -
Do you mean the oil filter? I didn't know there were any with or
without check valve.
> I also used an engine flush which
> helped immensely,
I asked someone at a spares shop today who used to work for Audi/VW.
He thought an engine flush is not a good idea at such a high mileage
(220 k km), since it would remove some of the carbon which holds the
oil in place.
> and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
> every oil fill.
I don't know whether that's available here, will have to check.
Thanks anyway, I will keep you updated.
Christoph
--
Important: Emails sent to me which contain my full name
in the "to:" or "cc:" field will bypass my spam filter.
With most programs "Reply" should do the job.
#29
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Audi100, '88 hydrolic valve lifters (was: Re: 1992 Audi 80 2.0E - ticking when warm)
Christoph,
Yes, the correct oil filter has an internal check valve that holds the oil
in the engine's passages when the car is not running. As Tony said, the
proper Mahle (make sure it's the correct one, some don't have the valve) or
Bosch (ditto) ones will help. Unfortunately, some filters (Purolator, etc.)
fit on the engine but either do not have the check valve - allowing the oil
to drain into the pan while stopped - or, even worse and common on a certain
Orange filter - the filter media offers too much resistance to the high flow
of oil causing media implosion and the fluffy bits get sucked into the
engine causing blockages in the oil passageways. A search on Audifans or
Audiworld should give you the correct Mahle part number.
The Engine Flush (only did it once) worked for me, but of course, YMMV, etc.
etc. The hydraulic lifters appear to be gummed up causing them to stick.
Of course, any liquid that will remove the sticky stuff around the lifter
will also remove sticky stuff that is sealing the old, dried up gaskets in
the engine. Apparently Synthetic Oil - true stuff like Mobil 1 (not Castrol
Syntec) - will do the same, just not as aggressively. I noticed a huge
increase in leakage when I put the M1 in my old 5000 - turns out that
synthetic also shrinks cork gaskets - such as the ones installed on the
valve covers of old Type 43 Audis.
Wynns seems to work a bit for me - it's on sale every once in a while. If
anything, it makes me feel better knowing I'm doing something to combat the
sound.
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ
1980 Audi 5k
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
"Christoph Bollig" <laserpower@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:anqfu09nto8496rvnf7bi4ug5dl5cqgag6@4ax.com...
> Hi again,
>
> Just to make sure I understand this correctly:
>
> > Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy
lifters
> > when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper
filter
> > (with a check valve) helped somewhat -
>
> Do you mean the oil filter? I didn't know there were any with or
> without check valve.
>
> > I also used an engine flush which
> > helped immensely,
>
> I asked someone at a spares shop today who used to work for Audi/VW.
> He thought an engine flush is not a good idea at such a high mileage
> (220 k km), since it would remove some of the carbon which holds the
> oil in place.
>
> > and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
> > every oil fill.
>
> I don't know whether that's available here, will have to check.
>
> Thanks anyway, I will keep you updated.
>
> Christoph
>
> --
> Important: Emails sent to me which contain my full name
> in the "to:" or "cc:" field will bypass my spam filter.
> With most programs "Reply" should do the job.
Yes, the correct oil filter has an internal check valve that holds the oil
in the engine's passages when the car is not running. As Tony said, the
proper Mahle (make sure it's the correct one, some don't have the valve) or
Bosch (ditto) ones will help. Unfortunately, some filters (Purolator, etc.)
fit on the engine but either do not have the check valve - allowing the oil
to drain into the pan while stopped - or, even worse and common on a certain
Orange filter - the filter media offers too much resistance to the high flow
of oil causing media implosion and the fluffy bits get sucked into the
engine causing blockages in the oil passageways. A search on Audifans or
Audiworld should give you the correct Mahle part number.
The Engine Flush (only did it once) worked for me, but of course, YMMV, etc.
etc. The hydraulic lifters appear to be gummed up causing them to stick.
Of course, any liquid that will remove the sticky stuff around the lifter
will also remove sticky stuff that is sealing the old, dried up gaskets in
the engine. Apparently Synthetic Oil - true stuff like Mobil 1 (not Castrol
Syntec) - will do the same, just not as aggressively. I noticed a huge
increase in leakage when I put the M1 in my old 5000 - turns out that
synthetic also shrinks cork gaskets - such as the ones installed on the
valve covers of old Type 43 Audis.
Wynns seems to work a bit for me - it's on sale every once in a while. If
anything, it makes me feel better knowing I'm doing something to combat the
sound.
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ
1980 Audi 5k
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
"Christoph Bollig" <laserpower@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:anqfu09nto8496rvnf7bi4ug5dl5cqgag6@4ax.com...
> Hi again,
>
> Just to make sure I understand this correctly:
>
> > Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy
lifters
> > when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper
filter
> > (with a check valve) helped somewhat -
>
> Do you mean the oil filter? I didn't know there were any with or
> without check valve.
>
> > I also used an engine flush which
> > helped immensely,
>
> I asked someone at a spares shop today who used to work for Audi/VW.
> He thought an engine flush is not a good idea at such a high mileage
> (220 k km), since it would remove some of the carbon which holds the
> oil in place.
>
> > and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
> > every oil fill.
>
> I don't know whether that's available here, will have to check.
>
> Thanks anyway, I will keep you updated.
>
> Christoph
>
> --
> Important: Emails sent to me which contain my full name
> in the "to:" or "cc:" field will bypass my spam filter.
> With most programs "Reply" should do the job.
#30
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: Audi100, '88 hydrolic valve lifters (was: Re: 1992 Audi 80 2.0E - ticking when warm)
Christoph,
Yes, the correct oil filter has an internal check valve that holds the oil
in the engine's passages when the car is not running. As Tony said, the
proper Mahle (make sure it's the correct one, some don't have the valve) or
Bosch (ditto) ones will help. Unfortunately, some filters (Purolator, etc.)
fit on the engine but either do not have the check valve - allowing the oil
to drain into the pan while stopped - or, even worse and common on a certain
Orange filter - the filter media offers too much resistance to the high flow
of oil causing media implosion and the fluffy bits get sucked into the
engine causing blockages in the oil passageways. A search on Audifans or
Audiworld should give you the correct Mahle part number.
The Engine Flush (only did it once) worked for me, but of course, YMMV, etc.
etc. The hydraulic lifters appear to be gummed up causing them to stick.
Of course, any liquid that will remove the sticky stuff around the lifter
will also remove sticky stuff that is sealing the old, dried up gaskets in
the engine. Apparently Synthetic Oil - true stuff like Mobil 1 (not Castrol
Syntec) - will do the same, just not as aggressively. I noticed a huge
increase in leakage when I put the M1 in my old 5000 - turns out that
synthetic also shrinks cork gaskets - such as the ones installed on the
valve covers of old Type 43 Audis.
Wynns seems to work a bit for me - it's on sale every once in a while. If
anything, it makes me feel better knowing I'm doing something to combat the
sound.
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ
1980 Audi 5k
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
"Christoph Bollig" <laserpower@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:anqfu09nto8496rvnf7bi4ug5dl5cqgag6@4ax.com...
> Hi again,
>
> Just to make sure I understand this correctly:
>
> > Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy
lifters
> > when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper
filter
> > (with a check valve) helped somewhat -
>
> Do you mean the oil filter? I didn't know there were any with or
> without check valve.
>
> > I also used an engine flush which
> > helped immensely,
>
> I asked someone at a spares shop today who used to work for Audi/VW.
> He thought an engine flush is not a good idea at such a high mileage
> (220 k km), since it would remove some of the carbon which holds the
> oil in place.
>
> > and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
> > every oil fill.
>
> I don't know whether that's available here, will have to check.
>
> Thanks anyway, I will keep you updated.
>
> Christoph
>
> --
> Important: Emails sent to me which contain my full name
> in the "to:" or "cc:" field will bypass my spam filter.
> With most programs "Reply" should do the job.
Yes, the correct oil filter has an internal check valve that holds the oil
in the engine's passages when the car is not running. As Tony said, the
proper Mahle (make sure it's the correct one, some don't have the valve) or
Bosch (ditto) ones will help. Unfortunately, some filters (Purolator, etc.)
fit on the engine but either do not have the check valve - allowing the oil
to drain into the pan while stopped - or, even worse and common on a certain
Orange filter - the filter media offers too much resistance to the high flow
of oil causing media implosion and the fluffy bits get sucked into the
engine causing blockages in the oil passageways. A search on Audifans or
Audiworld should give you the correct Mahle part number.
The Engine Flush (only did it once) worked for me, but of course, YMMV, etc.
etc. The hydraulic lifters appear to be gummed up causing them to stick.
Of course, any liquid that will remove the sticky stuff around the lifter
will also remove sticky stuff that is sealing the old, dried up gaskets in
the engine. Apparently Synthetic Oil - true stuff like Mobil 1 (not Castrol
Syntec) - will do the same, just not as aggressively. I noticed a huge
increase in leakage when I put the M1 in my old 5000 - turns out that
synthetic also shrinks cork gaskets - such as the ones installed on the
valve covers of old Type 43 Audis.
Wynns seems to work a bit for me - it's on sale every once in a while. If
anything, it makes me feel better knowing I'm doing something to combat the
sound.
Cheers!
Steve Sears
1987 Audi 5kTQ
1980 Audi 5k
1962 and '64 Auto Union DKW Junior deLuxes
(SPAM Blocker NOTE: Remove SHOES to reply)
"Christoph Bollig" <laserpower@gmx.net> wrote in message
news:anqfu09nto8496rvnf7bi4ug5dl5cqgag6@4ax.com...
> Hi again,
>
> Just to make sure I understand this correctly:
>
> > Yes, it's true that it doesn't matter. My '87 5ktq had some noisy
lifters
> > when I got it a few years ago, the switch to synthetic oil and proper
filter
> > (with a check valve) helped somewhat -
>
> Do you mean the oil filter? I didn't know there were any with or
> without check valve.
>
> > I also used an engine flush which
> > helped immensely,
>
> I asked someone at a spares shop today who used to work for Audi/VW.
> He thought an engine flush is not a good idea at such a high mileage
> (220 k km), since it would remove some of the carbon which holds the
> oil in place.
>
> > and I put a can of (IIRC) Wynn's Engine Restore in with
> > every oil fill.
>
> I don't know whether that's available here, will have to check.
>
> Thanks anyway, I will keep you updated.
>
> Christoph
>
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