winston wrote:

> As for the stealer, er, I mean dealer...factory-authorized warranty
> jobs pay Top Dollar my friend...I haven't met a dealer yet that doesn't
> want to find a way to get the factory to pay full pop for a nice payday
> like an Audi clutch.

I have.
Over here in Austria a factory warranty repair pays less to the shop as
if the customer would pay. As for all repairs (also towards the
customer), there is a fixed amount of time /money they would get from
the customer and the money they get from the factory is significantly
less (because Audi does not want the dealer to make profit on THEIR
account, which makes this information pretty credible for me).

So, yes, they would try to dodge the claim, because it's barely covering
their expenses over here.

A good workshop, however, would still do the job because it covers the
expenses AND makes sure the customer comes back with repairs he might
have to pay. Because he was treated well before.

Regards

Wolfgang

 

winston wrote:

> As for the stealer, er, I mean dealer...factory-authorized warranty
> jobs pay Top Dollar my friend...I haven't met a dealer yet that doesn't
> want to find a way to get the factory to pay full pop for a nice payday
> like an Audi clutch.

I have.
Over here in Austria a factory warranty repair pays less to the shop as
if the customer would pay. As for all repairs (also towards the
customer), there is a fixed amount of time /money they would get from
the customer and the money they get from the factory is significantly
less (because Audi does not want the dealer to make profit on THEIR
account, which makes this information pretty credible for me).

So, yes, they would try to dodge the claim, because it's barely covering
their expenses over here.

A good workshop, however, would still do the job because it covers the
expenses AND makes sure the customer comes back with repairs he might
have to pay. Because he was treated well before.

Regards

Wolfgang

 

winston wrote:

> As for the stealer, er, I mean dealer...factory-authorized warranty
> jobs pay Top Dollar my friend...I haven't met a dealer yet that doesn't
> want to find a way to get the factory to pay full pop for a nice payday
> like an Audi clutch.

I have.
Over here in Austria a factory warranty repair pays less to the shop as
if the customer would pay. As for all repairs (also towards the
customer), there is a fixed amount of time /money they would get from
the customer and the money they get from the factory is significantly
less (because Audi does not want the dealer to make profit on THEIR
account, which makes this information pretty credible for me).

So, yes, they would try to dodge the claim, because it's barely covering
their expenses over here.

A good workshop, however, would still do the job because it covers the
expenses AND makes sure the customer comes back with repairs he might
have to pay. Because he was treated well before.

Regards

Wolfgang

 

<brnelson55@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1146623693.544587.106700@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
>I currently have 38,000 miles on my 03 A4 Quattro and noticed that my
> clutch is slipping when I change gears. Basically my RPMs are way too
> high for my acceleration and speed when I shift into gear. I've also
> noticed that it seems to stick a little when I shift into 2nd gear.
> The realease point is extremely high as well. If the mechanic noticed
> that the release point seemed different.
>
> The dealership says that if the wear is due to abuse then I will have
> to pay a minimum of $500 just for them to look at the clutch and
> $2300!!! to replace it. My car is under warranty and I think this is
> bullsh$t. I do not drop my clutch at rpms, constantly keep it in
> engaged, nor do I race it all the time. I live in Atlanta with
> terrible traffic and have to shift a lot in bumper to bumper traffic
> and I shift slowly for smooth shifts but am wondering if that is
> actually worse for the clutch than quick jerky shifts since the clutch
> is engaged longer. They also tried to tell me that because I have 19"
> RS6 wheels that the circumfrence and weight of the new wheel is similar
> to "towing a boat" which is more stressful on the clutch. Am i wrong or
> is the diameter the same since the profile of the tire is smaller to
> compensate for the bigger wheel. Also, what added weight? I know he
> can't possibly mean actual lbs added to the car.
>
> Finally they said abuse can be identified by rippped rivets, excessive
> hot spots, and uneven wear on the clutch. Can anyone verify that this
> can identify abuse?? Is there a difference in how the clutch looks
> based on whether I'm racing the car or shifting much more than normal
> due to traffic conditions? Can anyone give me any information to form
> a solid argument with them? I am not a mechanic but I refuse to be
> taken advantage of by these dealerships any longer

Its a catch 22 for the dealer - if they get in there and find something
obvious like fluid in the clutch well then that's fine , your warranty will
cover it & everyone is happy. If they find a knackered clutch then its their
word against yours - they say the clutch is knackered, you say you don't
abuse it. The problem is that even inspecting you clutch is not a short
job - in fact its an absolute bitch of a job.

Statistically the liklihood of getting a bad clutch plate that just happens
to wear out faster than thousands of similar parts is extremely low, so
regardless of how you say you've driven the car you must also understand
when the dealer takes the position that, frankly, they don't believe what
you say.

You also say you spend a lot of time in traffic - and with that statement
you probably hang yourself. Based on what you've said & the general
reliability of Audi clutches (they are NOT a known weak point) its more than
likely you have knackered the thing. Besides, the fact that you have to
shift more than normal due to "traffic conditions" (as you say you do) is
your problem, not the dealers (or Audi's)!

The dealer is right in as much as you should be able to see from the clutch
whether or not the thing has been over heated - but just because it hasn't
been over heated doesn't mean you havn't just plain worn it out anyway. With
regard to the wheels, I don't know the numbers but its surprising just how
much heavier "big rims" can be over standard & so that will have an impact
on your clutch in stop-start traffic.

My advice would be to get your car fixed, expect to have to pay for it &
then trade it in for an Automatic - if you spend as much time in traffic as
you say you do then you 'll probably find it a lot less stressful to drive
anyway!

I.

 

<brnelson55@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1146623693.544587.106700@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
>I currently have 38,000 miles on my 03 A4 Quattro and noticed that my
> clutch is slipping when I change gears. Basically my RPMs are way too
> high for my acceleration and speed when I shift into gear. I've also
> noticed that it seems to stick a little when I shift into 2nd gear.
> The realease point is extremely high as well. If the mechanic noticed
> that the release point seemed different.
>
> The dealership says that if the wear is due to abuse then I will have
> to pay a minimum of $500 just for them to look at the clutch and
> $2300!!! to replace it. My car is under warranty and I think this is
> bullsh$t. I do not drop my clutch at rpms, constantly keep it in
> engaged, nor do I race it all the time. I live in Atlanta with
> terrible traffic and have to shift a lot in bumper to bumper traffic
> and I shift slowly for smooth shifts but am wondering if that is
> actually worse for the clutch than quick jerky shifts since the clutch
> is engaged longer. They also tried to tell me that because I have 19"
> RS6 wheels that the circumfrence and weight of the new wheel is similar
> to "towing a boat" which is more stressful on the clutch. Am i wrong or
> is the diameter the same since the profile of the tire is smaller to
> compensate for the bigger wheel. Also, what added weight? I know he
> can't possibly mean actual lbs added to the car.
>
> Finally they said abuse can be identified by rippped rivets, excessive
> hot spots, and uneven wear on the clutch. Can anyone verify that this
> can identify abuse?? Is there a difference in how the clutch looks
> based on whether I'm racing the car or shifting much more than normal
> due to traffic conditions? Can anyone give me any information to form
> a solid argument with them? I am not a mechanic but I refuse to be
> taken advantage of by these dealerships any longer

Its a catch 22 for the dealer - if they get in there and find something
obvious like fluid in the clutch well then that's fine , your warranty will
cover it & everyone is happy. If they find a knackered clutch then its their
word against yours - they say the clutch is knackered, you say you don't
abuse it. The problem is that even inspecting you clutch is not a short
job - in fact its an absolute bitch of a job.

Statistically the liklihood of getting a bad clutch plate that just happens
to wear out faster than thousands of similar parts is extremely low, so
regardless of how you say you've driven the car you must also understand
when the dealer takes the position that, frankly, they don't believe what
you say.

You also say you spend a lot of time in traffic - and with that statement
you probably hang yourself. Based on what you've said & the general
reliability of Audi clutches (they are NOT a known weak point) its more than
likely you have knackered the thing. Besides, the fact that you have to
shift more than normal due to "traffic conditions" (as you say you do) is
your problem, not the dealers (or Audi's)!

The dealer is right in as much as you should be able to see from the clutch
whether or not the thing has been over heated - but just because it hasn't
been over heated doesn't mean you havn't just plain worn it out anyway. With
regard to the wheels, I don't know the numbers but its surprising just how
much heavier "big rims" can be over standard & so that will have an impact
on your clutch in stop-start traffic.

My advice would be to get your car fixed, expect to have to pay for it &
then trade it in for an Automatic - if you spend as much time in traffic as
you say you do then you 'll probably find it a lot less stressful to drive
anyway!

I.

 

<brnelson55@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1146623693.544587.106700@u72g2000cwu.googlegr oups.com...
>I currently have 38,000 miles on my 03 A4 Quattro and noticed that my
> clutch is slipping when I change gears. Basically my RPMs are way too
> high for my acceleration and speed when I shift into gear. I've also
> noticed that it seems to stick a little when I shift into 2nd gear.
> The realease point is extremely high as well. If the mechanic noticed
> that the release point seemed different.
>
> The dealership says that if the wear is due to abuse then I will have
> to pay a minimum of $500 just for them to look at the clutch and
> $2300!!! to replace it. My car is under warranty and I think this is
> bullsh$t. I do not drop my clutch at rpms, constantly keep it in
> engaged, nor do I race it all the time. I live in Atlanta with
> terrible traffic and have to shift a lot in bumper to bumper traffic
> and I shift slowly for smooth shifts but am wondering if that is
> actually worse for the clutch than quick jerky shifts since the clutch
> is engaged longer. They also tried to tell me that because I have 19"
> RS6 wheels that the circumfrence and weight of the new wheel is similar
> to "towing a boat" which is more stressful on the clutch. Am i wrong or
> is the diameter the same since the profile of the tire is smaller to
> compensate for the bigger wheel. Also, what added weight? I know he
> can't possibly mean actual lbs added to the car.
>
> Finally they said abuse can be identified by rippped rivets, excessive
> hot spots, and uneven wear on the clutch. Can anyone verify that this
> can identify abuse?? Is there a difference in how the clutch looks
> based on whether I'm racing the car or shifting much more than normal
> due to traffic conditions? Can anyone give me any information to form
> a solid argument with them? I am not a mechanic but I refuse to be
> taken advantage of by these dealerships any longer

Its a catch 22 for the dealer - if they get in there and find something
obvious like fluid in the clutch well then that's fine , your warranty will
cover it & everyone is happy. If they find a knackered clutch then its their
word against yours - they say the clutch is knackered, you say you don't
abuse it. The problem is that even inspecting you clutch is not a short
job - in fact its an absolute bitch of a job.

Statistically the liklihood of getting a bad clutch plate that just happens
to wear out faster than thousands of similar parts is extremely low, so
regardless of how you say you've driven the car you must also understand
when the dealer takes the position that, frankly, they don't believe what
you say.

You also say you spend a lot of time in traffic - and with that statement
you probably hang yourself. Based on what you've said & the general
reliability of Audi clutches (they are NOT a known weak point) its more than
likely you have knackered the thing. Besides, the fact that you have to
shift more than normal due to "traffic conditions" (as you say you do) is
your problem, not the dealers (or Audi's)!

The dealer is right in as much as you should be able to see from the clutch
whether or not the thing has been over heated - but just because it hasn't
been over heated doesn't mean you havn't just plain worn it out anyway. With
regard to the wheels, I don't know the numbers but its surprising just how
much heavier "big rims" can be over standard & so that will have an impact
on your clutch in stop-start traffic.

My advice would be to get your car fixed, expect to have to pay for it &
then trade it in for an Automatic - if you spend as much time in traffic as
you say you do then you 'll probably find it a lot less stressful to drive
anyway!

I.

 

In article <1146623693.544587.106700@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups .com>,
<brnelson55@yahoo.com> wrote:
>I currently have 38,000 miles on my 03 A4 Quattro and noticed that my
>clutch is slipping when I change gears. Basically my RPMs are way too
>high for my acceleration and speed when I shift into gear. I've also
>noticed that it seems to stick a little when I shift into 2nd gear.
>The realease point is extremely high as well. If the mechanic noticed
>that the release point seemed different.
>
>The dealership says that if the wear is due to abuse then I will have
>to pay a minimum of $500 just for them to look at the clutch and
>$2300!!! to replace it. My car is under warranty and I think this is
>bullsh$t. I do not drop my clutch at rpms, constantly keep it in
>engaged, nor do I race it all the time.

I was falsely accused of abusing my 2001 S4 when the transmission
broke. A few years later a different dealer tried to turn a $1000
out-of-warranty clutch problem into $3,000 of repair work. My
experience is common. I will not be buying another Audi.

Having my car fixed or maintained at the independent shop down
the street costs half as much as going to a dealer. The labor
rate and parts cost are slightly cheaper, they bill half as
many hours, and they don't add unnecessary work to the job.

It might be worth risking the $500 for a look. If they say
"abuse" have it towed somewhere else for $1500 of repair
work. Then you decide if it's worth your time to sue Audi.

--
John Carr (jfc@mit.edu)

 

In article <1146623693.544587.106700@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups .com>,
<brnelson55@yahoo.com> wrote:
>I currently have 38,000 miles on my 03 A4 Quattro and noticed that my
>clutch is slipping when I change gears. Basically my RPMs are way too
>high for my acceleration and speed when I shift into gear. I've also
>noticed that it seems to stick a little when I shift into 2nd gear.
>The realease point is extremely high as well. If the mechanic noticed
>that the release point seemed different.
>
>The dealership says that if the wear is due to abuse then I will have
>to pay a minimum of $500 just for them to look at the clutch and
>$2300!!! to replace it. My car is under warranty and I think this is
>bullsh$t. I do not drop my clutch at rpms, constantly keep it in
>engaged, nor do I race it all the time.

I was falsely accused of abusing my 2001 S4 when the transmission
broke. A few years later a different dealer tried to turn a $1000
out-of-warranty clutch problem into $3,000 of repair work. My
experience is common. I will not be buying another Audi.

Having my car fixed or maintained at the independent shop down
the street costs half as much as going to a dealer. The labor
rate and parts cost are slightly cheaper, they bill half as
many hours, and they don't add unnecessary work to the job.

It might be worth risking the $500 for a look. If they say
"abuse" have it towed somewhere else for $1500 of repair
work. Then you decide if it's worth your time to sue Audi.

--
John Carr (jfc@mit.edu)

 

In article <1146623693.544587.106700@u72g2000cwu.googlegroups .com>,
<brnelson55@yahoo.com> wrote:
>I currently have 38,000 miles on my 03 A4 Quattro and noticed that my
>clutch is slipping when I change gears. Basically my RPMs are way too
>high for my acceleration and speed when I shift into gear. I've also
>noticed that it seems to stick a little when I shift into 2nd gear.
>The realease point is extremely high as well. If the mechanic noticed
>that the release point seemed different.
>
>The dealership says that if the wear is due to abuse then I will have
>to pay a minimum of $500 just for them to look at the clutch and
>$2300!!! to replace it. My car is under warranty and I think this is
>bullsh$t. I do not drop my clutch at rpms, constantly keep it in
>engaged, nor do I race it all the time.

I was falsely accused of abusing my 2001 S4 when the transmission
broke. A few years later a different dealer tried to turn a $1000
out-of-warranty clutch problem into $3,000 of repair work. My
experience is common. I will not be buying another Audi.

Having my car fixed or maintained at the independent shop down
the street costs half as much as going to a dealer. The labor
rate and parts cost are slightly cheaper, they bill half as
many hours, and they don't add unnecessary work to the job.

It might be worth risking the $500 for a look. If they say
"abuse" have it towed somewhere else for $1500 of repair
work. Then you decide if it's worth your time to sue Audi.

--
John Carr (jfc@mit.edu)

 

Peter Bell wrote:
> In message <1146712838.262456.161640@v46g2000cwv.googlegroups .com>
> "winston" <winstoncole@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> > If your clutch has simply worn out after 38K that's surely odd...but
> > hey, maybe you're riding the clutch and you sent it to an early
> > grave...obviously nobody here can say one way or the other.
>
> My guess is that the clutch is being abused. The original post talked
> about changing gear slowly - now I guess that this doesn't mean moving
> the gear stick slowly. More likely, the driver is keeping the engine
> revs high and letting the clutch engage slowly, with lots of slip -
> whilst being kind to the rest of the transmission, this will result in
> excessive wear of the clutch plate, particularly in the town traffic he
> describes.

If we're just counting up votes, I gotta go with Bell. I've never had
a clutch in a car *I* drive regularly go out with under 100K on it.
Audis have gone well over 200K for me. That said, I do not 'baby'
them, either. I am a BMW & Audi club driving instructor, so my cars do
get 'tracked' regularly, but that's not abusing the clutch (unless you
mistakenly think, as someone here obviously does, that this consists
solely of drag racing). I've also autocrossed for some 18 years using
4000-rpm 'drop clutch' starts in Audis and this hasn't noticeably
affected my clutch wear. I drive 'briskly' on the street, but my
shifts don't wear the clutch quickly.

It's the regular day-to-day shifting pattern you use that will wear out
your clutch prematurely (barring a very rare defect of some kind, which
you'll only be able to find after you take it apart). The best shifts
are apparently (I'm not bragging, but depending on the results I have.)
the way I drive: quick engagement of first to get rolling, rev-matching
both up- and downshifting, and spending as little time as possible in
the midpoint of pedal travel when shifting. I don't generally 'speed
shift'; I take my time moving the shift lever, but during that time,
the clutch pedal is *on the floor* (none of this ridiculous clutch
spacer nonsense to make my shifts infinitesimally 'faster') and then
quickly released.

It's when you're depressing or releasing the clutch that it slips and
wears. It's also when your shifts aren't smooth (in terms of rev
matching) that it wears. I hope you find some anomalous clutch malady
like a leaking seal or badly made materials; but I doubt you will. If
you end up having to pay for this job, it should be more than reason to
go on a campaign against shoddy Audi service. It should be your
wake-up call to change your driving habits somehow.
--
C.R. Krieger
(Been there; done that)