Brake Pads & Rotors...help me decide!
#13
Re: Brake Pads & Rotors...help me decide!
After much much reading…here is my input so far: I will let my mechanic inspect my rotors/pads maybe a simple resurfacing of the rotors would do the job with new Hawks HPS pads!
My finding:
•Flush the system with 4 - 500ml Motul DOT 5.1 fluid bottles. If you have a manual trans, don't forget to flush the clutch line. Motul DOT 5.1 fluid (most motorcycle shops carry it). Motul seems to be the brand of choice with most bbk/upgraded brake people using the 5.1 or RBF-600 on here. The 5.1 is alot cheaper ($6.50/bottle compared to the RBF600 @ 17.50/bottle), and is recomended to be changed every 2 or so years compared to every year w/ the rbf-600. The RBF-600 is a racing/track fluid and I've also heard that AP and Castrol make good racing fluids.
Stay away from ATE brake fluid as it seems there is something in it that corrodes the clutch system on Audis...so DON'T GET ATE brake fluid.
•For stock brake setup as that is the best rotor you'll find for the money, Use Zimmerman smooth faced rotors and Hawk HPS pads, flush out your brake fluid and use Motul 5.1 or RBF600 and you'll have a much improved braking system.
•I don't know why everyone is so quick to say get slotted/drilled/dimpled/cut/starred/frozen/plaided rotors as they are mainly for a bling factor! For normal everyday even spirited driving regular OEM rotors are cheaper and have less problems than the others also.
• Changing rotors won't do much... in fact you want a plain face rotor to keep as much metal as you can to dissipate heat. Quality pads like Hawk HPS with OEM rotors is your safest bet
• Skip the Zimmerman corssdrilled rotors and get the plain solid ones instead as you want as much metal as possible for the OEM braking setup and having a dinky 288mm drilled rotor looks silly.
I wouldn't worry about the dust difference between slotted and plain faced rotors. The benefits of slotted out weigh the pit falls. Slotted keep the pads fresh and clean. They also help displace water on the rotor surface when the pads are applied in rainy conditions.
• If you really wanted looks then get the Zimmerman X-drilled units as they come that way from the factory. ECS cuts/drills the blanks afterwards.
• Just go with some slotted replacement rotors and good pads (Hawk, PBR, etc) front and rear. You'd be amazed and how much you can improve on what you already have. I don't think huge brakes are really necessary unless you track the car. For street use our breaks are more than adequate. Just improve them with the better pads and rotors. Many places sell em but ECS is a good resource to look at what's available/prices. BBK's look great, work awesome but who needs em and they're bloody expensive.
Some suggested places to shop that have a few OEM-type stuff...
Thepartsbin.com; worldimpex.com; PAP-Parts.com; ECSTuning.com
Any other suggestions/advice?
My finding:
•Flush the system with 4 - 500ml Motul DOT 5.1 fluid bottles. If you have a manual trans, don't forget to flush the clutch line. Motul DOT 5.1 fluid (most motorcycle shops carry it). Motul seems to be the brand of choice with most bbk/upgraded brake people using the 5.1 or RBF-600 on here. The 5.1 is alot cheaper ($6.50/bottle compared to the RBF600 @ 17.50/bottle), and is recomended to be changed every 2 or so years compared to every year w/ the rbf-600. The RBF-600 is a racing/track fluid and I've also heard that AP and Castrol make good racing fluids.
Stay away from ATE brake fluid as it seems there is something in it that corrodes the clutch system on Audis...so DON'T GET ATE brake fluid.
•For stock brake setup as that is the best rotor you'll find for the money, Use Zimmerman smooth faced rotors and Hawk HPS pads, flush out your brake fluid and use Motul 5.1 or RBF600 and you'll have a much improved braking system.
•I don't know why everyone is so quick to say get slotted/drilled/dimpled/cut/starred/frozen/plaided rotors as they are mainly for a bling factor! For normal everyday even spirited driving regular OEM rotors are cheaper and have less problems than the others also.
• Changing rotors won't do much... in fact you want a plain face rotor to keep as much metal as you can to dissipate heat. Quality pads like Hawk HPS with OEM rotors is your safest bet
• Skip the Zimmerman corssdrilled rotors and get the plain solid ones instead as you want as much metal as possible for the OEM braking setup and having a dinky 288mm drilled rotor looks silly.
I wouldn't worry about the dust difference between slotted and plain faced rotors. The benefits of slotted out weigh the pit falls. Slotted keep the pads fresh and clean. They also help displace water on the rotor surface when the pads are applied in rainy conditions.
• If you really wanted looks then get the Zimmerman X-drilled units as they come that way from the factory. ECS cuts/drills the blanks afterwards.
• Just go with some slotted replacement rotors and good pads (Hawk, PBR, etc) front and rear. You'd be amazed and how much you can improve on what you already have. I don't think huge brakes are really necessary unless you track the car. For street use our breaks are more than adequate. Just improve them with the better pads and rotors. Many places sell em but ECS is a good resource to look at what's available/prices. BBK's look great, work awesome but who needs em and they're bloody expensive.
Some suggested places to shop that have a few OEM-type stuff...
Thepartsbin.com; worldimpex.com; PAP-Parts.com; ECSTuning.com
Any other suggestions/advice?
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