If I, actually when I get a 06A block will I still need to put rods and pistons in it. Or is it good to go with just a rebuild?

What is a 06A block origonally from? Is that a 2.0ltr jetta/golf mid 2000's?

Sorry I am doing alot of research on this stuff and it all kinda sounds french to me. However, I am starting to figure it all out. Thanks Cheeba for sending me in the right direction here I am pretty new at german cars even as a mechanic also. Don't really see them that often in my shop.

The reason I found a Audi to start with is because I went for a ride in my bro's mustang (496WHP SC) and it was awesome. So I figured I loved my old Audi 4000csQ, so why not start with a newer one and build it up. Best of both worlds, comfort and power!!!!! HELL YA

I usually am building stuff like my Bronco pictured below with a big block pushing roughly 425hp and 600lb/ft of tourqe and 42 in tires... HAHAHAHAHA

 

Parts are ordered for head job I will be doing the porting work right now and one question... where do I get a Powergasket for the intake and is it benifical? My supplier needs a part number if anyone has one. Thanks

And I will be doing pics and starting a porting thread also. For those following it here I will be posting in this thread also. Work commences 2mrw

 

NewSouth Performance makes powergasket
I am happy with it. Intake manifold stays cool.

 

06A is the parts-code prefix for a specific block design for the internal water-pump 1.8T blocks, of which there are many engine codes. The AEG engine is the NA 2.0L block that you should source a crank from. You will need 144mm rods x whatever wrist pin size (different 06A blocks use different wrist pins - 19 or 20mm), and pistons designed for the stroker rods.

I'm not sold on phenolic spacers for intake manifolds. Obviously, not having metal-to-metal contact between the head and manifold will reduce the latter's temperature, but whether or not this achieves any power gain seems physically spurious to me. I think the only gain will come from 'tricking' a manifold IAT sensor into thinking the air is cooler than it is, thus the ECU will pull less timing - something which should be optimized with a good ECU tune anyway.

 

I am going to disagree with you on this cheeba.... The iat sensor contacts the intake mani with plastic, therefore, there should be little to no heat transfer thereby fooling the ecu. I think that with or without a phenolic spacer the iat sensor is giving an accurate temp reading of the air, not the manifold (and so it should). The idea here, is the same as the intercooler only reversed. If your freshly cooled air is passing through a hot intake mani, by the same concept of heat exchange, it should be expected that the air would be heated up. With the spacer, this doesn't happen. Also, many people find that the throttle response begins to suffer in high temps, but with the spacer, throttle response remains crisp (with the exception of when you are sitting idling for extended periods, at which time, even with the spacer the mani will heat up- but once you start moving again the mani will once again cool right off, whereas without the spacer, it won't)

 

I didn't mean heat transfer from the IM to the IAT sensor, rather I meant that when we measure IAT, we are using it as an approximation of the combustion chamber temperatures; and, if you run a phenolic spacer, this approximation will be farther off that if you didn't run one. You're basically tricking the ECU into thinking that the combustion chamber temps are lower than they are, so that it will pull less timing than it otherwise would. This is fine, but you can do it for free with tuning, and your money would be much better spent on a water/methanol injection system.

 

I still don't agree with the tricking part- the iat is the iat, and the sensor should give an accurate reading no matter what, and if the ecu detects cooler air temp it will not advance timing beyond the baseline of the tune anyway (true even with water meth), so all you are doing is introducing a cooler denser air charge , which should reduce the likelihood of knock (which is sensed independant of the iat anyway), thereby reducing the chances of the ecu actually pulling timing. The beauty of water meth is that you can run a much more aggressive tune due to lower temps and higher octane. Am I missing something here? I don't say that a phenolic spacer will increase hp (if it does, it would likely be on the order of 1-3hp anyway lol), but neither does a fmic. Hp is not the the reason for installing a spacer or a fmic. but the spacer definitely improves throttle response in higher temps, and I do believe it will further reduce the probability of timing pull in higher boost/high temp conditions.
Anyway, to bro460, it is a cheap part, but as you can see- there are those of us who like them, and those of us who are skeptical... I guess you have to make a judgement call on your own here lol

 

Okay so I have a big problem now!!!!!! I have the head off and it was definatly burning coolant. However that wasn't really caused by a head gasket. The turbo body where it bolts to the manifold has 2 cracks in it. I am going to take it up to my boss's brother's turbo specialty shop and get them to take a look anyways. I will post my findings and pics.

Seeing this I really doubt it was even a head gasket in the first place!!!! Oh well it just gives me an excuse to do my port work now and maybe a upgraded turbo

If i need a turbo it might have to wait till I have some cash thou. I'll see what they say

 

To crarify this it is called the exhaust side of the turbo. My bosses brother told me that it is actually a commen failure on the t03 turbo. I haven't got it to him yet but he is going to try and see what he can do and also help me with finding a better turbo for my car.

The t04 iv'e seen is a common swap, can anybody help me with turbo options here??? I will search it, just wondering about known good replacement options. thanks

 

Brand new turbo ordered!!!!! 730 bucks later but, I'll have it on monday. I should have it running by thursday. I am still workin on getting pics, sorry guys

I am doing a stock turbo replacement. Going to boost it to about 15 psi when I get a chip and do a full 3in exhaust off the turbo (no cat) when I get more money. Also bigger injectors and adjustable DV.