Okay, problem found. Definatly is a head gasket, just in the initial phase of it thou. The reason I haven't seen any bubbles or smoke is because it is only happening when the boost it on from the turbo. Basically when I am driving, at idle it's fine.

So step one is now getting the proper gaskets so I can port the head and do all that kind of work right now. Is there certain gaskets that are better than others for this mod? If anybody has info on this that would be awesome.

I can buy a Victor gasket set for 130 and head bolts for 44 and a timing belt for 35 from Lordco and WesCan. Can have those parts here for tuesday. This is stock replacement stuff.

 

Hi Cheeba. If I do the 2.0 bottom end and top end will I need a chip right away? Or will the stock computer handle it?

 

All the machine work for all of this is free for me. I work at a machine shop that specializes in engines. My brother is the head guy and my boss does block and crank work. Re and Re is all me.

So this is what I've come up with...

For the head:

-stainless intake valves
-inconel exhaust valves
-smooth bowls and gasket match my AEB head
-gasket match my intake and exhaust manifolds

What I am seriously thinking:

-2.0ltr AEG crank
-Scat rods
-New pistons and de-glaze the cylinder walls
-full new bearing all throughout

Exhaust:

-custom 3in from cat back (muffler choice unknown right now--maybe milltech)
-eventually a 3in test pipe after chip with cat delete option

Suspension:

-H&R coilovers with ABT tuning

Computer:

-APR chip (level unknown)

Wheels and tires:

-235/40r18 rubber
-18x8 R505 style rims

I can't afford to do all of this in one shot thou. Head work right now is a must due to my head gasket problem. Coilovers are a go. Exhaust will be soon to follow as well as collecting the parts for the rest of the work.

And yes a 5spd swap in in my long term plans

 

You won't need a specific tune to run a 2.0L - the MAF and ECU will take care of proper fueling. Considering that you are able to have the car down (I remember you saying that you had a nother vehicle to drive) and that you get all the machine work for free, I'd go ahead with the build I really envy your position - I wish I had ready access to a machine shop!

Everything above sounds good, but you'll also need to bore the block for the 2.0L. It's up to you, but I opted to increase my compression to achieve better fuel economy, quicker spool, and better power throughout the whole RPM range. If you build the engine properly, 9.5-10.0:1 will be fine at <=30psi boost. Also, you didn't mention the parts specifically, so be sure to change the water pump, tensioner, and all rollers. The actual timing belts on the 1.8T rarely fail - it's usually one of the mechanical pieces in the system.

I also recommend ditching the OEM headbolts and getting some ARP ones - inevitably you'll be back in the head and the OEMs are one-time use only. Also, you can get a used AEG crank for <$200 on VWvortex if you can't find a good one from a local junker.

 

I think you should start and engine build thread with pics and we can all follow along?

 

Hahahaha, ya my other vehicle is a F350 Superduty V10 gas hog. Not that great on the ol wallet and bank account. I would like to just collect all the right parts first and in the meantime just put a headgasket in it and save money on gas that can go directly back into the Audi for performance stuff. Then in the spring I can tear it all down and do the 2.0 swap.

I will however phone on Monday and get all the prices for it. I still might just do it now.

Can you give me the sizes for rods and pistons that I will need? Also what year golf/jetta has the AEG crank? That way I know exactly what I am asking for please? thanks

Thanks for the tip on the ARP head bolts, good idea cause I will be back in there for sure Also what is the benefit of the valves being inconel and stainless? Do I need the oversize ones or is that for 8000 rpm racing applications? Do I even need valves right now?

 

So my research for a 2.0 swap states that I need:

-AEG Jetta/Golf crank
-144/20 scat rods
-83mm pistons (unsure about compression spec)

Is there other problems I will run into like flywheel and oil pump etc.... Or will this all work with my stock stuff from the 1.8T? Basically am I missing something?

 

I don't know exactly what years the AEG spans, but it's from 2000MY+ for sure. You can also use the cranks from the 2.0T - which are forged, rather than cast like the AEG - but they're considerably more money, and people with 700wHP are not breaking the AEGs so I see no reason for the extra expense.

Oh wait - I completely glossed over the fact that you have an AEB engine! The AEB is an 058 1.8T block (can be distinguished by external water pump), whereas most other 1.8Ts are 06A blocks (internal water pump). You need to use an ABA crank and will have to space the oil squirters with a washer so that the piston skirts don't hit them. I have no idea if there is a difference in the manual and auto ABA cranks, but there definitely is a difference between the two on the newer 1.8T cranks. You'll have to determine this on your own.

Crank: ABA (early OBD1 are forged, the later versions are cast - won't matter much unless you're pushing 1000HP)

Pistons: 144/20mm

Stroker pistons: 82.5-83.0mm (they have to be specifically designed to work with 144mm rods!)

Crank-to-Flywheel bolt patterns are all the same, even for the auto cranks. You can keep your original oil pump, but I think you may have to machine the intermediate shaft to clear beefier connecting rods.

The 2.0L is definitely doable on the AEB, but it is a little more complicated than on the newer 1.8T blocks. There's nothing that can't be handled by a competent machine shop. That said, I opted to pick up a trashed block and head for dirt cheap, and build it into a 2.0L, then swap it in over a weekend. No downtime

 

Okay I've decided to just do a head gasket for now and in the meantime collect all the parts to be able to do a wicked long block stroker in the very near future. Might go one step farther at that time and throw in a 5 spd also. This way I can take my time and make sure I get the best parts I can put into this car and do it right with less downtime.

 

Good plan! You can also save yourself some work/expense by picking up an 06A block rather than using your 058 block. You'll want to either find another AEB head, or pull yours, rebuild it and use it on the new block. At 400-500wHP, the AEB and a large-port manifold can be worth a good 40wHP of top-end (VAG heads flow like crap, so the AEB really helps here).