Anywhere? I'll buy one if I have to, but can't find one in Toronto area east.
For a v6 ATQ.
Any advice is welcome. The water pump went and I may have skipped a tooth on the timing belt.
The idler pulley had spit all it's ***** and chewed up the cage. Not sure if it will ever run again cuz it looks like one cam is way out. Damn
Bob

 

What do you mean by "Not sure if it will ever run again cuz it looks like one cam is way out"? Do you mean you're not sure if the valves hit the pistons or not?

I've never done an ATQ timing belt, but is there some reason that you can't just time the cams and mark them, then install the belt? Is the holder really needed to get the belt on?

 

Hello Cheeba,
I think the valves may have been stressed, I'll do a compression test when the timing belt goes back on. Thought the holder was used to time the cams, (I have never replaced a timing belt on on anything) so I'll eyeball the cams for now, get the belt on, and see if there is more damage, like bent valves or cam chain tensioner.
Bob

 

I strongly recommend that you understand exactly what you're doing if this if your first time changing a t-belt! And, no matter what you do, before you start it, turn the engine over by hand several times to ensure that there's no interference.

As I said, I've never done a t-belt on the ATQ, but every modern VAG car has timing marks on the cam and crank sprockets so that you can time them to one another, and on the actual cams (inside the valve cover) so that you can time the cams to one another. Make sure that when you're getting the cams into proper position you keep pistons away from TDC so you don't damage the valves yourself. If you don't have a Bentley (and I reeeeaaally hope you do if this is your first t-belt job) to show where to point the crank timing mark, you can pull a spark plug and put a screwdriver in to indicate the piston position as you turn the crank.

That said, you should really be pulling the valve cover to check for visual damage (lifters not touching cams), and failing that, pull the head to inspect the valves. Honestly, it's very unlikely that you have no bent valves...

 

I was afraid of that, so my question now is:
Assuming bent valves, would running it with a new timing belt trash the head, or is it already also toast.?
If the head (valves & all) is junk, I'll take a chance and start it up, because it was running but loud, almost diesel-like. (Dad, the car is making a funny noise...but I made it home OK)
I'm going to look under the valve cover.
Thanks for the advice. I'll post back what I see. Bob

 

I wouldn't run it if you know the head is trashed - you can always drop a valve and tear up a cylinder/piston, damage pistons that weren't previously damaged, or bend more valves than are already bent.

If you're intent on doing this yourself, you should have a Bentley Service Manual, proper tools, and the foreknowledge of what you're getting into. You should start by getting some new head studs and the appropriate bit to drive them, a new headgasket set, and pull the head to check it out. If the head is pooched and the pistons are fine, buy some new valves/guides/seals and take it to a head to a good machine shop.

I won't say that it can't be done - because I've successfully done it myself - but doing your first t-belt job with no help and no technical resource is not the most advisable way to go about it.

 

Picking up replacement heads tomorrow. Still looking for a wrench to remove the head bolts. Any ideas?