Heads removed and rebuilding engine.
07-06-2011 | 10:19 PM
#41
Audi Forum - Posts like an A3
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 59
From: Calgary
Re: Heads removed and rebuilding engine.
Good to h"ear" you're still in one piece after that brake cleaner incident! I'm kindof dreading tearing into my engine after this thread, I'm used to little Toyota 4AG engines, feeling way over my head! Can't even get the intake off!
07-07-2011 | 01:52 AM
#42
Audi Forum - Posts like a Q7
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 725
From: Regina, SK
Re: Heads removed and rebuilding engine.
No offense in this reply...
I got the bolt out - you don't block it with a block of wood or anything hand made. I purchased a TDC locking tool. Underneath on the side is a grommet you take out and screw the TDC locking tool in - tight. It holds the crankshaft in place so you can loosen the 300 ft pounds of torque on the bolt. I then purchased a 24mm 12 point socket and a 2 foot long 1" pipe to go on to the 1/2 inch ratchet handle. It took some ooomph, but I got it.. Audi recommends you throw the bolt away and purchase a new one. I have the part numbers for the crankshaft seal, the gasket on the back of the plate cover, and the bolt. I'll post next with pictures.
One thing - I had to really dig the seal out of the crankshaft cover plate. There's no way I get that out w/o taking the plate cover off. There are screws on the front of the plate - and the bottom. You have to take off the oil pan cover to get at it. I did. I'll have plenty of pics coming... good info.
I got the bolt out - you don't block it with a block of wood or anything hand made. I purchased a TDC locking tool. Underneath on the side is a grommet you take out and screw the TDC locking tool in - tight. It holds the crankshaft in place so you can loosen the 300 ft pounds of torque on the bolt. I then purchased a 24mm 12 point socket and a 2 foot long 1" pipe to go on to the 1/2 inch ratchet handle. It took some ooomph, but I got it.. Audi recommends you throw the bolt away and purchase a new one. I have the part numbers for the crankshaft seal, the gasket on the back of the plate cover, and the bolt. I'll post next with pictures.
One thing - I had to really dig the seal out of the crankshaft cover plate. There's no way I get that out w/o taking the plate cover off. There are screws on the front of the plate - and the bottom. You have to take off the oil pan cover to get at it. I did. I'll have plenty of pics coming... good info.
No offense taken - I've removed plenty of bolts from the rotating assembly, and know what I'm doing. You didn't read my post all the way through - I mentioned buying or fabbing a crank holder, but in a pinch there are many ways you can hold an engine, including utilizing a block.
FYI, use a seal puller, or wood screws, to pull seals on the car. If the part is off the car, use spacers with a press or hammer to remove the seal.
Anyways, you're doing quite well for a newbie! The important things when assembling critical components are to use clean fasteners and bolt holes, match parts to their original locations (i.e., don't swap those cam caps!), and use correct torquing procedures (tightening order and ft-lbs.) with a good torque wrench.
07-10-2011 | 05:19 PM
#45
Thread Starter
Audi Forum - Posts like an A1
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 46
From: Chicago
Re: Heads removed and rebuilding engine.
The original failure was caused by an accident I presume before I bought the car. The oil pan was cracked - the passenger side suspension needed to be replaced. When I took off the valve cover, you could see the damage the camshaft was doing to the head. I ignored it, put it all back together - and drove until it snapped.
07-10-2011 | 08:35 PM
#47
Thread Starter
Audi Forum - Posts like an A1
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 46
From: Chicago
Re: Heads removed and rebuilding engine.
And another thing... Central Locking Pump Module is bad. I was having the issue of windows not working, sunroof not moving, doors locking and unlocking by themselves....
So today I went looking for it - its in the trunk on the passenger side. It looks like it has water damage and and some over current problems.
****...
So today I went looking for it - its in the trunk on the passenger side. It looks like it has water damage and and some over current problems.
****...
07-21-2011 | 07:49 PM
#48
Thread Starter
Audi Forum - Posts like an A1
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 46
From: Chicago
Re: Heads removed and rebuilding engine.
I'm thinking of selling it now.... the way it is.. I brought the existing "good" head in for refurbish. The one off ebay cost me $350 to have refurbished. They want $600 for doing the one that was ok supposedly. WTF..... that and the locking pump might cost me $1K. Add the timing kit, gaskets, plug wires, we're up to 2K....
****...
****...
07-23-2011 | 11:54 AM
#49
Audi Forum - Posts like an A3
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 59
From: Calgary
Re: Heads removed and rebuilding engine.
I hear you man. Deciding to fix my engine has become the biggest money pit/time waster ever. I've got all the parts, but when you're in that deep you may as well keep going. . .
07-23-2011 | 01:01 PM
#50
Thread Starter
Audi Forum - Posts like an A1
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 46
From: Chicago
Re: Heads removed and rebuilding engine.
Yep - I told the head shop to keep going.... I called Audi to see how much a locking pump costs - $800... I think I'll look online for a used one..
BOW river - been there.....
BOW river - been there.....
